Breezy_Pete

Bring it over to me in Oxfordshire some time.

Yes, that second one is 110A, which covers the while interior and its fusebox. Power steering one next to it in position 3 should be 50A, then the last ones with the dodgy fuses should both be 40A. I would leave the one for the fans (thinner red/black wire) as-is, but change the right-most one with the red/green wire for a 'legit' 40A one. That's the ABS pump fuse. Clean contact surfaces before fitting new fuses, ideally.

Yes, the fusebox on the end of the dashboard. Good, the battery light should come on and then go off as the engine starts. There's a common wiring fault, especially on the diesels where there's more vibration, that results in charging problems due to the alternator excitation wire breaking. If the battery light comes on, it's fine.

Fuse 25 in the cabin fuseholder is the other one. Fingers crossed that it's all just down to the battery. Is it a diesel or petrol engine? Does the battery symbol light up when you switch ignition on, before starting to turn the engine over?

40 Amp for ABS strip fuse, there's also at least one other, probably that 25 Amp blade fuse from your first photo (also a red/green wire, from memory?). On a train just now so can't check for a third, but will do later.

ABS fault might be the bodgy fuse in position 6.

Yeah, good pics, but still can't really see if there's a crack there. May be worth getting a pack of assorted fuses from Halfords, which will include a 50A one which is correct for there, and hopefully a couple of 40A ones which would suit where the two ill-fitting ones have been put. Halfords Assorted OTO Strip Fuses 30>60 Amp (FUSE133) | Halfords UK Could use a 30A one for the fans which is position 5 on your fuse board. Looks like there's only one of each value in the Halfords variety pack. On second thoughts, leave the bodged ones as they are, if there's no problem, don't fix.

That's them. Looks like some previous bodgery at positions 5 and 6 with wrong-fitment fuses, but your power steering one looks to be in position 3 from left. See if you can get a sharper pic of just that one. I think I can see a hint of a line across it very near the middle of the necked bit.

These. I think power steering is the fifth one from left. Thicker of the two red/black wires goes to it.

No, the all-metal strips that the four or five thick wires connect to, nearer to engine on that fuse board. It's not obvious that they are fuses, at a glance.

Yes, and yes. Message me please.

Try to get (and post) a nice, sharply-focussed photo of the strip fuses in the holder above the battery. Sometimes a near-invisible hairline crack in the power steering one can give such symptoms.

Yeah, it's quite nasty on the facelift cars with rivetted carriers. Sounds like a replacement of, or repair to the driver's side module is needed.

Front brake PR code is 1ZE, which is 288 x 25mm discs.

That's not going to help with fronts.

Front, rear or both? 1KS is the PR code for the rears, I think. PR codes for front brakes are always absent from the sticker in my experience. Include the VIN and I can look up for you though.

The bigger the gap, the higher the voltage required to leap it, which in turn would require more energy from coilpack. Makes intuitive sense to me.

I don't know. Scanning for fault codes really is your best strategy. When were the spark plugs last inspected or replaced?

Hose won't be relevant. Probably a failed coilpack, but scan to see what the fault lights are indicating.

Phone them (or another motor factor) with the vehicle VIN ready to quote. The info they can find with VIN is better than the website search by reg number.

With DPF. Parts catalogue says it uses 1K0254706MX "exhaust pipe with catalyst and particlulate filter"

I doubt the A/C or window problems have anything to do with the BCM.

I can't make out much, but I'll trust that you can see enough to tell that the mechanism/regulator is bust. Probably worth replacing that ahead of worrying about the motor.

It's common to re-seal the sheet metal assembly carrier to the door, as a fix for leaks. That alone wouldn't affect window operation. Not sure what you mean by the cable. Photo?