Breezy_Pete

Message me the VIN and I'll see what I can find out. 🙂

😆 The right pads for some vehicle, yep. Probably not yours though.

CBZA/CBZB engine with chain timing, I'd bet.

Release bearing, I think.

Where I'd start is by looking at the connections to the fuse of, and the wiring to the ABS return flow pump. If you share your VIN with me in a private message I can probably research this a little for you. Whereabouts in the world are you?

£127.50 + VAT for the 5J0 part at a Skoda parts counter, may make you keener to try the pattern parts...

Here you go. Your connected thing (the PCV valve as it turns out) has part number 03D103765F, not 030... The hose, plus connecting bits are item 37, part number and superseding one on the right (both starting 03D). Rather eye-watering on the price front, especially as these are before VAT. See if LLL parts can get it cheaper than dealerships, they often can. Or scrapyard hunting but watch out for ones with holes in the rubber connecty bits items 38, from oil-related degradation. Or just find some fuel hose of the right inside diameter to fit over the places it has to go. That might be about a quid. Might need to make a much bigger loop though, or it might collapse under vacuum, if it were close to being kinked.

OK, so its a 1.2 HTP engine? If you message me the VIN, I can most easily look up the hose part number for you.

Do you mean the loopy one, labelled output hose here? Or the one right behind that, or in front/through it? Seems unlikely cos that doesn't go to the purge valve, but your red ring contains about 5 hoses.

6Y0 839 015A, superseded by 5J0 839 015

Don't bother with the oil change until this situation is resolved. It won't/can't help.

Check spark plug condition. If all OK, refit but swap coilpack that was in cylinder 3 with one of the other two. See if misfire moves to that cylinder. If it does, replace that coilpack, if it doesn't, compression test time. 6-valve or 12-valve HTP?

There's no such thing as an 'undoing torque' value in my experience. You will have to keep increasing until they come out, or shear off.

They are all shown as ignition switched.

Quite high on axle stands was adequate. Not comfortable though. The image I did find of the crank showed that I also removed the right side driveshaft. Not sure if that was essential, or just recommended.

Sorry, a very important message came in just as I was about to upload image!

Item 14 is the oil pump. Appears to require cam belt, crank sprocket and sump removal to change. Bet there's nothing wrong with it though. Do you know if the oil separator on the back of the engine block has ever been inspected or changed? That has an impact on oil quality when blocked up, which is why the strainer on my Polo there was blocked, I expect.

No, but it's up at the cambelt end. The only pic I can find shows only the middle area. I'll try to find a diagram for you.

This thread may be helpful to you if it's a 16-valve engine with manual transmission, and has the alloy sump type. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/481220-oil-pick-up-1416v Not a very nice job to do on the driveway. Be very careful after the sump is off, not to headbutt the end of the dipstick tube. I did and it hurt a lot! Could have been very nasty in an eye socket. Exhaust has to be dropped down out of the way on this sump type. Not sure if it is also the case for steel sump version, or automatic transmission.

Yes, it's probably the strainer then. Is it manual or automatic transmission?

Have you looked at the oil pressure switch. Can leak oil through the connector when it fails, easy to see if you just disconnect it and see if it's oily inside?

Also find and fix the exhaust leak!

Your VIN calls for 6Y0 823 737B, which was available until recently, so some places may still have stock. Dropped from sale at Skoda in August last year.

If it is not there, get one from a scrapyard. One version appears to be available new from Skoda still - 6Y0 823 723 A Not sure if that is the correct one for your car or not, if you tell me the VIN I can check.