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Breezy_Pete

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Everything posted by Breezy_Pete

  1. 7th and 8th characters in the VIN are the key to definitively identifying it if you don't know all the visual cues. Mk2 = 5J, Mk3 = NJ. Can't help with the real question though, but identifying the vehicle accurately is always a good start.
  2. Document S0057020020. Search for copies 'wild' on the internet, or pay a small fee to download from erWin Skoda.
  3. You should not have to, the workshop manual doesn't mention doing so.
  4. Pins 7 and 8 of the 32-way connection, grey/red and grey/white wires. D2 is the immobiliser pick-up coil around the ignition lock, J362 is the immobiliser control unit within - K - the instrument cluster electronic board.
  5. MOT and service are very different. If you wish to see what is tested at MOT, here is the manual: MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles - Guidance - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk) As an example, MOT doesn't care anything about how the engine is in terms of oil, filters, etc. as long as the emissions from the tailpipe aren't beyond limits.
  6. You may well find that this autolocking can be configured differently via VCDS even if it isn't apparent how to do it via the inbuilt user interface.
  7. Understood. Sorry for your loss.
  8. Picture of dog please.
  9. Does each illuminate if you park up and switch off engine/remove key from ignition with indicator stalk left up or down?
  10. Anyone acquiring a new-to-them vehicle with an internal combustion engine will do well to keep an eye on oil levels by use of the dipstick every few weeks until familiar with rate of oil consumption. Waiting for a warning light is not optimal. There was a similar story on another model subforum a couple of days ago. I forget which else I would link to it.
  11. I thought same!
  12. Sounds like a good description of battery light function except it's the onboard supply control unit (often called BCM on later cars) that supplies initial blue wire current and monitors voltage, not engine ECU. It then tells instrument cluster electronics via CAN data what is going on, and instrument cluster switches battery light LED off/on as necessary. When the new alternator is fitted, check voltages/volt drops with load applied to make sure that a bad connection or crimp joint hasn't developed since your jump lead experiment.
  13. See some part number variants for the under-the-dash stuff here: LLLParts The parts with 0 as the third digit are common to both, but others where it's 1 or 2 are LHD/RHD specific.
  14. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ
  15. Try it again when the system is loaded enough that the voltage measured across the battery terminals is well under 14.2V, then repeat the voltage drop measurements. It will be interesting to see if the total of the voltage drops on each connection plus battery voltage add up to 14.2V or not. One of the small wires (the blue one) is the alternator excitation, only used for monitoring the output voltage after its initial function of booting up the alternator. It is self generated after this, once alt is spinning enough. The other is DFM, which is just information to the engine ECU about how much the alternator is 'trying' (the duty cycle of the regulator). Output voltage is fixed at the alternator +ve output terminal by the regulator, as long as the current demand is less than it is capable of supplying at that engine speed and full duty cycle.
  16. With how much electrical load on the system at the time of these measurements?
  17. Common story on lots of recent Skodas.
  18. Nice, well done. Just a quick heads-up for UK or other readers where we drive on the left (RHD), the above link is for a LHD part, so unlikely to be suitable. RHD (6Q2) versions may be available there though, haven't looked.
  19. I'd love to see some good evidence for this. What do you have?
  20. Interesting. What part number are the new plugs, please? Fingers crossed that's all sorted now; good result. 👍
  21. I think it's quite possible. Acidic vapour can come out of vents, and with bonnet down could go anywhere. Wiring damage may have occurred if any wires nearby had cracked insulation.
  22. Never seen that word before but seems extremely appropriate to all sorts of car jobs! 😁
  23. Don't know, sorry.
  24. Did it have reflector or projector headlights? Might well make a difference.

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