Breezy_Pete

There's a dozen comparable cars here that suggest yours may have a problem if that 11L/100km turns out to be a true average: Gasoline consumption: Skoda - Octavia - Spritmonitor.de Bear in mind that people who choose to put their consumption data on sites like that are more likely to be 'hypermiler' types than dragstrip heroes though.

Which lambda sensor, there's likely to be two? Not an easy DIY usually. Price will vary a lot depending on location, and quality/source of part used.

Characters 7 and 8 of the VIN tell you which model you have. If 6Y you have a mk1 If 5J you have a mk2 If NJ you have a mk3 Calling some mk2s 'Fabia 1', 'Fabia 2', 'Fabia 3' as trim descriptions was daft, and confuses quite a few.

If you can see a part number, stick it into skoda-parts.com search box and that will probably tell you which Skodas used it, at least. Probably has an anti-icing function, to stop crankcase fumes freezing and blocking the breather as they drop pressure at the valve. On older versions of 1.4/16v there's an electric heater in the PCV valve. Share your VIN with me if you want current part numbers/prices if you wish.

Yes, I think 2kW. And yes, that looks very much like the problem.

Vehicle excise duty is set by politicians. Logic and consistency should not be expected.

On cars with these motors, convenience opening and closing is purely controlled via signals from lock modules going via window motor module. Just turn key and hold it turned. Fob buttons, BCM, everything else uninvolved. Does central locking currently work via key in door?

VCDS is blind to these guys cos the only data connection is a LIN wire between driver's and passenger side motor modules.

Roof colour 2G Exterior colour/paint code 2G/F8L. Says the VIN.

Nice to have visual confirmation of fault. Photos?

Is it not just a push-fit, or is there a clip? If push-fit, just ease it off from the end with a flat screwdriver or two, 'pushing' rather than pulling, if you see what I mean. Or deplete vacuum from servo by pressing brake pedal a few times and prise out that end.

Bulb type is often printed into the plastic of the bulb holder adjacent to where it goes.

You don't say that you have tried new bulbs; have you?

Dunno, sorry

Photo would help.

If you mean the right side as you look at it, rather than the car's right side, I think the air quality sensor may be under there, and they have a bad rep.

Then it's not listed by Skoda.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ

Sep linked to this thread to show belt routing for the benefit of this thread https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/518098-burning-and-screeching-from-aux-belt/ JR appears to have got mixed up between the two.

Try tayna.co.uk instead.

Sounds like fast loss to me, but would be nice to know what the total parasitic drain is external to the battery. i.e. is it the car's problem rather than the battery. A few days monitoring after a full recharge, but with battery disconnected from car would give a partial answer to this. If you disconnected the BM2 as well and measured the battery voltage with a multimeter you would see the true self-disharge rate.

I paid £6.85 on ebay for the necessary tool to do a freewheel pulley on our Fabia recently. Worked fine. I would imagine changing whole alt on a 2.0tdi is a hugely harder job.

Don't worry about the top-up, seems like a pretty small proportion.

No start/stop? Then not possible to code even if you tried.

The engine designer thought that was an OK pressure. But that's going to be my last input here, because you clearly will not alter your view.