Breezy_Pete

Is there enough thread to just fit the terminal on top of existing nut and then add another nut? Photos would help us understand the problem.

I may be able to look up which oil your car is supposed to have via the VIN if you'd like me to try (Private message it if you like).

Can you add a photo of that bit of the manual about only adding 0.5L? Are you sure it doesn't say 504 00 there? I would expect the right spec for your car to be 508 00, I think. Relax, it doesn't look even below the green area to me?

You could always 'unmodify' it back to how it was before returning it. On such a recent car I'm a bit surprised it isn't configurable via the existing user interface though.

Does your car have the feature where a sustained press on the 'unlock' button of the remote starts to drop all the electric windows (and vice-versa for the lock button if windows are left open after shutting all doors)? If it does, try it and see which windows move/don't If it doesn't have that functionality on the fob, try turning and holding the key in the drivers door lock to try to achieve same. If all windows work, that would strongly implicate a switch fault.

You have correctly identified the coolant temperature sensor, yes. Sep may well be correct about exhaust valve damage, but best to check compression which is relatively quick and easy.

Never seen that at all on any car I've had hands/VCDS on, but maybe newer ones than I have tend to be more affected. Maybe, but I didn't get to a point where I considered anything diagnosed. I think it could well still be the pump/module, or even cabling/connection/fuse??. Hopefully the OP took on board the battery possibility though, before spending on pump replacement. Only just thought of strip fuse. Wonder if it's that nasty, subtle hairline crack 'gotcha'??? Not sure if a 2012 mk2 has that type of strip fuse though*. 🤔 * Parts catalogue suggests it may have. @Fred66 any progress today or was garage shut for weekend? Any chance of close-up photos of the strip fuses if you currently have access to the car and the fault remains unsolved?

Pretty good; I guess the 0.15V is on the positive wire path? Thinner than the earth wire I think, so natural for it to be a bit higher, but could be improved I think. I guess that was all with engine just idling? The fact that full load had same volt drops on the cable paths to battery as half load suggests the alternator was already maxxing out on current at half system load and idle revs, probably. Everything should be good when driving around with higher belt speeds and more current capability from alt. 🙂

I prefer to suggest proving stuff before spending when it's other peoples money.

Check the car data pdf I gave you in PM convo. It said build date Dec 2011 from memory. Do you know when chain and tensioner changed revisions?

So a good plan may be to get the garage to connect a booster pack to the battery, and see if function and comms return.

Your car manufacture date is on your car data pdf (which you have), but all that tells you about engine manufacture date is that it can't be later than that.

The car's battery isn't the factory original is it? I don't see why low voltage would cause comms issues, but the pump is quite current-hungry when steering enthusiastically.

Temp sensor is in the black plastic coolant flange from which the radiator hoses emerge. Gearbox end of engine head. With a 6-valver misfiring on one cylinder unattributed to plug or coilpack I would encourage you to have the cylinder compression checked before much else is done.

PAS module (control circuitboard) is inside the aluminium case of the pump. It communicates with other modules on the same bus by CAN. I think coding won't be required. Let us know how you get on please. Have you been through deep standing water recently?

Unfortunately getting to it to hit it will take some time. Miles easier on 9N Polo equivalent, but I doubt that's any help!

If it doesn't leak, leave well alone.

Less forward displacement than I remembered: "Push the middle and rear silencer forward until the dimension -a- = 3 ... 7 mm is obtained on the retaining strap/middle silencer." I suppose it's so that when the exhaust heats up, expansion means the hanger ends up vertical/neutral.

The workshop manual for the mk1 suggests pulling the rear section forward until its hanger has a 10mm forward displacement or some such. That results in the pipes pretty much meeting in the middle of the clamp, I think.

Last one I took off was consistent, sleeve just as bad as the clamps! Can't remember if it was a genuine one unfortunately:

👍

The actual exhaust pipes. By eye, they don't look in line, and if I hold a ruler up to the screen there's a fair angle. Is there a (designed) kink in the end of the right-hand/rearmost section? Looks even worse on your photos pre-fix TBH, so possibly a photographic artefact.

Relay within onboard supply control unit welded its contacts in 'on' position at a guess.

No problem with axle stand there. Did you use any exhaust paste? Reckon it may leak if not. You'll soon see from black soot stains. The two bits don't seem quite aligned either?

If it seems to work as a technique, maybe pop a link in here? Do you know for sure which resistor type your car needs? Climatronic A/C system has a transistorised thing with a metal heatsink, Climatic has a wirewound resistor. Not in the same place I believe.