Breezy_Pete

I bought a set similar or the same as that out of curiosity. By inspection I concluded that they aren't for centralising so much as for 'putting back in same position as it was pre-removal' which isn't likely to be central. So no use if not acquired til after removal. I think once I'd realised their real purpose the workshop instructions made more sense.

This might help: Skoda Fabia blower motor replacement / Resistor peplacement repair - YouTube

When you were attempting the throttle body alignment did you ensure that all pre-conditions were met? All engine ECU fault codes cleared, 11.5V minimum battery voltage with ignition on, etc, as described on the Ross-tech page. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Body_Alignment_(TBA)

Yes, and yes. I'll send you a private message with a contact number.

Have you tried turning key in door and holding fully turned, to see if the convenience opening/closing functions work? Doors must all be closed for this. Both windows should start to descend for key held in unlock position; close if the key is held other way.

Fuse 11 is the switched feed. On the bench, if you provide the two 12V feeds, you can ground the wire labelled R here and see if anything happens. Failing modules sometimes work when powered afresh, but then fail again next time they're given a wake-up call by the door lock 'key turned' signal or the ignition feed. In the absence of the passenger module it'll go to sleep after 10 minutes and only wake up if the main permanent feed is cycled, I seem to remember. If the LIN wire is connected to a passenger/slave unit that's also powered, the normal key and ignition 'wake-ups' should work.

It'll be the driver's side motor module failing/failed. Did your fuse and voltage checks include #11, an ignition switched feed to the smaller connector at the motor. There's no data connection other than the LIN wire, so OBDII is blind to these problems. If you're viewing on a computer rather than a phone, check the relevant link in my signature (below Quote button).

I'd be very surprised if a spray in the intake makes any difference, but apart from the price of the item, you haven't much to lose by trying, I think. Can you not clear the fault code just before setting off for the test?

No loss of coolant?

Yes, the 5V rail is generated within the ECU, but I believe it also goes to other items via splices/joins within the engine loom, so I would not advise bypassing that one unless you leave the existing wire in place, and just parallel onto it. Thinking about it, if that 5V supply had a wiring problem it would probably give intermittent faults on other sensors that it supplies (depending on where the fault is in relation to the splices), so I would probably conclude that one is fine.

Pump part number is shown on your last image 6Q0423156AB. I think the bits where it says reference voltage too low are a red herring, only relevant if the steering were the Koyo version which has a four-wire G250 sensor and a reference voltage associated with that.

I would think it's worth trying another sensor before looking any further, since you've checked the wiring (presumably not seeing any signs of water ingress or corrosion at either end of cable?)

Do not open the ECU, that's not what I meant. I meant has any pin contact got visible corrosion or wetness, which you have answered. Just on my way to a christmas party, can't help more today.

It does look like it may be an intermittent problem, possibly a bad/dirty connection? Any sign of fluid having got into either sensor or ECU connector housings?

Pin 1 is earth, so just measure from it to each other contact, 2, 3 and 4. Should be no connection.

Don't forget to check for short (0 Ohm) problems between each sensor connector pin and earth.

Yes to all of that I think, including the bit about ignition on, you wouldn't get the engine running with that connector unplugged from ECU. You may find that you need a fine piece of wire to poke into the ECU loom connector to be able to contact your meter probe. I think the pins in the ECU male part are very thin so you won't be able to get contact in the female loom connector without such a 'probe'. (unless you go can go in from the wire entry side?) Can't remember if that's possible/easy.

there is now:

Flat metal box, on the firewall behind airbox.

Wires from the sensor plug are as follows: Pin 1 Brown wire, earth, test for 0 Ohms to battery negative. Pin 2 Green wire, Intake Air Temperature sender to engine ECU pin 56 (on the smaller of the two connectors) Pin 3 Red/green wire, +5V supply from engine ECU pin 62 Pin 4 Brown/white wire, pressure sensor output to engine ECU pin 70 Continuity test those if you can, then test for shorts between pin 1 and each of the others.

Please supply engine code (BBM or BZG?) or VIN. There are two different 2008 1.2 petrol mk2 engines, one with 6 valves the other with 12. Finding the right wiring info probably depends on which you have.

I'm remembering vaguely that the fuel gauge and outside temperature sensor behind the front bumper share a voltage source. Anything odd going on with outside temperature readings? I drew out the circuit within the cluster board somewhere, might be able to find again.

Yes, so your alternator is conventional, fixed output voltage (although that does vary with temperature). Let us know in a few years how it's doing. 👍

The brown/white earth from the gauge should end up on pin 32 of that same connector, check if it does (and that pin connection, can't see well cos of the green peg.

The battery management module would be on the negative pole, not positive, if you had one.