Breezy_Pete

Nice one. Wondered how you got on. 👍

The main relay is on the bottom row of the relay holder in the cabin, in the middle; position #13. Not sure how easy it is to access. That is the 14-way connector, yes.

OK, I don't understand that all. That would imply that either your main relay is switched on all the time* (which seems wrong). Or the wires you're talking about aren't the ones I've tried to describe. * Could be that it gets switched on by door opening, and switches off again when the car goes to sleep after closing/locking??

I hear what you're saying; but I believe the energy recuperation thing isn't the whole story with why EFB/AGM have variable voltage charging. These batteries have lower internal resistance than conventional ones, so for a given charge voltage, the current flows will be higher into the battery. That's great when the battery isn't full, but not so good when it is.

Interesting. I thought EFBs were like AGMs, in that overcharging is a possibility on fixed-voltage output alternators, hence the 'birth' of battery management modules and variable output alternators that go with start/stop cars. You don't have any module connected to the battery negative post do you, just wires?

How odd. I must be misunderstanding how that relay works. What about if key is right out of the ignition? erWin Skoda for circuits. Individual vehicle information tab, repair info, choose model etc. 1 hour's access is under a tenner and you could download huge numbers of pdfs in that time. Download links don't appear until 'flat rate' is paid.

Trouble is, now you don't really have the right battery for your charging system.

Does the car have start/stop? If not there will be nothing to program.

Same thing happened to this guy recently Fabia 1.4 16V BXW Removing intake manifold - Skoda Fabia Mk II (2007-2014) - BRISKODA Function of these sorts of things is generally warm things up to prevent freezing of water content in gas flows. Maybe to stop the point where the block breather output enters the manifold from blocking with ice? I think maybe your airbox has no thermostatic mechanism or source of pre-warmed air to help with this? Earlier generations of 1.4/16V (and other petrol engines) did have (minimum) air temperature control, which often fails in a way that results in all of the air intake being pre-warmed, which ain't ideal.

Fuse 28 (10A) one is on pin 6 of that same 14-way connector blue/black wire one side, black/white on other side of connector pair. Fuse 32 (15A) via pin 3 on blue/red wires.

There are a bunch of other higher-fused feeds that come from the 'main relay' via fuses 28-33 inclusive, which might be safer bets, not strictly ignition switched, but effectively so, they'll be on whenever engine is running.

Black/yellow wires going in and out of the 14-way connector pair near the nearside suspension tower, pin 11, is one option. What do you aim to power from it? That wire is fused at 7.5A (cabin fuse 3), but that fuse serves several different consumers so you wouldn't want to add much load to it.

Engine code please.

If you want to check that PN, message me your VIN.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/3T2971121AK/skoda-wiring-set-for-door-3t2971121ak One option

Watch this from about 1:30 (he has a false start before that where he forgets which way the clip moves.

Flat blade screwdriver that's close to the same width as the gap. Rest it in there, then as sep says, you need to squeeze the two mating halves of the connector together, then twist the screwdriver to lift that clip. The pushing together is because there's a rubber seal in the midst of the connector which is currently causing the latch to be very difficult to disengage, once you compress that seal, the latch can move freely.

Add a switch in series with the feed wire(s) to them. Or the command wire from the switch if that is a different thing.

Disconnect the fronts?

I'm seeing nothing 'in the way' between ignition switch terminal 50 (red/black wire 2.5mm CSA) and starter motor solenoid connection (thinnest wire going to starter). If you have a voltmeter/multimeter and an assistant, you can maybe disconnect this wire at the starter solenoid, and see if it is getting 12V relative to battery negative when the key is turned all the way to the position usually associated with starter motor noises.

I'll have a look at circuits on big screen shortly. I was just looking at a couple of relays that might've been worth checking, if it had had start/stop. Can you message me the VIN so I can find a build date please?

Does this car have start/stop?

Check blade fuse no.6 on battery-top fuseholder.

Sounds like ignition switch failure.

The drawing is wrong in this case, out of date compared to what's written. For a 2017 Superb, this is another 'wild' ETKA page showing brake light switch of the part number you mention. LLLParts See where it says ".. associated part 611-000,7 ..."? That page is the brake master cylinder, where you can see it mounted on the side, item 7: LLLParts See how the representation of this "brake light sensor" looks just like the parts shown in google image results of the part number (and quite unlike the image of the pedal version in the other ETKA page)? Look on your car in the two places, photograph what you see.