Breezy_Pete

The cable from battery positive to starter motor is the only cable in the car that doesn't have any fuse. But you were not suggesting that the OP did anything with that, so no problem.

Partial cover only is what VIN seems to say for ngabriel's car. Drain holes (letterbox shape) are at the ends of the scuttle area, going through to just behind the plastic wheel-arch trims. Water should not come out in other places, but may well do so due to poor sealing of wiring grommets and maybe the whole front panel of the area.

I wonder if the lower cover as fitted to pre-facelift mk2s can really still be fitted, but Skoda chose instead to fit the smaller, cheaper partial cover at facelift time. Maybe @Crucian has a facelift car with pre-facelift lower cover? If you meassage me with your VIN, @ngabriel, I can see what the catalogue specifies for your exact car, I expect.

I will have to let other owners of facelift mk2s confirm or refute that there is only a partial cover.

No cover required on driver's side or centre, according to designer of facelift mk2. The connector for the wiper motor should be waterproof. Not much else there to worry about, I think? Engine ECU is on firewall in engine bay, I think.

Excellent. Doubt it will get voted in though, everyone seems to want excessively large vehicles lately.

I think there should only be such a cover on the side where cabin air intake is (front passenger side), not the side where the wiper motor is. I think maybe you already have it, after reading your posts again? The clue is the way it's named in the parts catalogue.

Note for UK/steering wheel on the right viewers, part number for RHD is different - 5J2815159. Either is surprisingly cheap from Skoda dealers. Less than 5 euro or equivalent.

That's enough for now. Is this maybe what you need? 5J1815159 Skoda Air Intake Trim Plate 5J1815159 - LLLParts Google image shows something that looks possibly correct.

Maybe add some relevant details to your profile, or your post, so that we know what we're dealing with.

Is it not shown if you scroll down a bit on that page? Protective Grille Škoda 5J0819407A (skoda-parts.com)

The fact that battery type is shown as regular, with no mention of AGM makes me not trust that test set-up. I suspect it also isn't taking into account the variable output voltage nature of an alternator in a start-stop car. Makes it trickier to test than traditional fixed voltage alts.

Freedom membership sorts out photo posting issues.

Have you measured the thickness of the old discs to see if they really were close to needing replacement?

Sounds more like thermostat failing than water pump.

The blue telltale is an LED, so much less likely to have failed than a conventional bulb. Circuits for any Skoda model can be downloaded for a small fee via erWin Skoda. If you search for that word pair you can probably find several threads discussing the details of how to do this.

Hmm, good extra data. Sounds like the car is getting a signal as if it's been put in reverse gear each time the brakes are applied. On your drive, with an assistant, see if reverse light(s) are coming on with brake lights, even in neutral. Selecting reverse with blower on automatically switches air intake to recirculation mode which increases sound in cabin. Selecting reverse with front wipers on adds rear wiper action...

Thanks for closing this out with so much good info. When I speculated that the start/stop fault might be unrelated to the battery, I have to admit that I had no idea what exactly that might've been. Hats off to the honest Skoda dealer who sorted it. Big swerve away from the other one who seemingly are either incompetent at computerised diagnosis; devious; or even possibly both.

Comfort control module (whichever of the two modules commonly referred to as such) isn't really involved at all in any active sense for facelift mk1s. Which part number was fitted in driver's side door, and which is now? (Ideally including the bottom row of info on the label, starting with SK or VW). Most likely a driver's side module failure, see 'Entrepreneur Zone' sub-forum if a repair is desired. Extremely common for ebay ones to be incorrectly described and/or not really working fully.

Does it happen at a standstill, or only when moving?

I would just replace whole condenser. No idea why draining radiator would be useful. Sorry to not give it more thought, I have a nasty headache.

It does a bit, thanks.

What's going on with the hose right at the bottom of that pic? Looks like it has been cut partway through but very neatly. I feel I'm missing something or not seeing it right.

I think you would have to remove condenser from car to fit a replacement dryer, so no saving in disassembly effort.

A new condenser will have a new dryer, yes. Not sure if seperable on your car. I can likely check with VIN if you like. I've done a few attempts at repairs on leaking systems by just replacing o-rings, never with any lasting success. Your leak looks to be near the pipe join, but the dryer seal is at the top of that side 'tank' bit, I believe. I've had such little success with fixing leaky A/C that I just gave up on my car. It doesn't leak (rainwater), so winter drying function isn't missed, and it's only useful for a week or two in summertime here, so not worth the effort.