Breezy_Pete

Gone.

@J.R. Great point.

You could probe the input pins to make sure the stalk command info is getting to the control unit, and link pins of the output connector to simulate the relay making connections, but I think you've probably already done enough to make it extremely likely that it's the relay. Yes, mk2 up to approx March 2010 build have the same general arrangement, not sure in later (facelift) mk2s. Note the different relay part number described in the fourth post, for control units with suffix - F part numbers, like yours I expect. Changing the whole control unit is another option, but some configuration with VCDS may be necessary if the relevant build options of the donor car don't match yours. New replacement control unit would be hideously expensive, I think.

That control unit is mounted above the clutch pedal on LHD cars. See first and fourth posts in this thread:

No see here LLLParts, items 22 hatch/saloon, 23 estate/combi, unless you meant the moulded in rearmost bits rather than the uppy/downy rear windows?

Items 20/21 here, I think: LLLParts They tend to need a socket extension to reach easily from the top, and try not to drop screw or bracket once loose.

If I do happen to get one for Christmas I'll be interested to set up something to see what current drain it really adds, when passive and active. Not too sure how Bluetooth works though, does that thing keep periodically trying to make contact with a(ny) paired device, or is the activity all at the other end until a connection is made? Anyone?

Some seals that VW-group call o-rings in the parts catalogue are actually rectangular section. Not these though.

A really nice aspect of this BM2 device is that it can tell you the battery voltage with the car fully 'asleep'. Many people try to measure without ensuring this state has been reached, and then reach conclusions based on poor data.

At about 4 years old your EFB battery may not have many more years left in it, especially if you use the start/stop function, but depending on the data coming from your BM2 and your interventions as necessary with CTEK you may well be able to extend its life by a winter or two. 👍

Yes, G65 sensor in pipework near coolant expansion tank will disable A/C compressor if it reads too low, I think. Yes, bumper off, normal shape O-rings may well come with new condenser, check with supplier.

I don't think I would try that recondition function unless the battery is actually in a state of deep discharge, unless you get CTEK to say it is OK for an EFB that is near or at full charge.

I think those two sentences suggest you are owed a replacement or refund.

Ask ctek if it's not in the user manual.

It's true that deep discharge is bad for car batteries. Sometimes they recover OK, sometimes not. Your new monitoring device puts you in a great position to avoid any recurrence. Maybe set a reminder to check what it's saying once a week.

OK, yes, although EFB/AGM types tend to be a little higher than that, and than conventional batts when fully charged and unconnected to anything (open circuit). Which is yours? (It's likely to say EFB or AGM on the top). Has it been giving any trouble? Worth noting that the car's inbuilt charging system does not maintain 100% charge levels deliberately, to avoid potential overcharge issues.

Hello and welcome.

Thought so. Can't tell much remotely whilst charger is doing stuff.

When was the charger disconnected? No point looking at voltage within less than a couple of hours of disconnection.

In that case it would be fine for me with it mounted where you have it. @J.R. I doubt very much that there's a diode en route to your lighter socket, more likely inaccuracy of the LED meter. Verify against something less cheap.

No, there has never been a significant problem here. Red oil pressure warning lights are a different story

Yes. Top up a little and relax.

If I do get one I may extend the wires and mount it in the cabin, as the Bluetooth range will probably be better when not in a closed engine bay. I'll be interested to hear how close you need to be with your phone to get data.

You may well find that the oil level is higher when oil is at operating temperature. The thermal expansion of the oil more than compensates for the 'wetness' of some of the surfaces higher up the engine just after it has been running. Oil at operating temperature flows very easily and drain holes from head to sump are large. See what you find, but be careful to always extract and wipe clean dipstick before re-inserting to get the reading. You will get a false result otherwise.

An LED voltmeter will take many more mA than the 1 that this claims to. Might add one to my Amazon wishlist for my spare car.