Breezy_Pete

Freedom membership sorts out photo posting issues.

Have you measured the thickness of the old discs to see if they really were close to needing replacement?

Sounds more like thermostat failing than water pump.

The blue telltale is an LED, so much less likely to have failed than a conventional bulb. Circuits for any Skoda model can be downloaded for a small fee via erWin Skoda. If you search for that word pair you can probably find several threads discussing the details of how to do this.

Hmm, good extra data. Sounds like the car is getting a signal as if it's been put in reverse gear each time the brakes are applied. On your drive, with an assistant, see if reverse light(s) are coming on with brake lights, even in neutral. Selecting reverse with blower on automatically switches air intake to recirculation mode which increases sound in cabin. Selecting reverse with front wipers on adds rear wiper action...

Thanks for closing this out with so much good info. When I speculated that the start/stop fault might be unrelated to the battery, I have to admit that I had no idea what exactly that might've been. Hats off to the honest Skoda dealer who sorted it. Big swerve away from the other one who seemingly are either incompetent at computerised diagnosis; devious; or even possibly both.

Comfort control module (whichever of the two modules commonly referred to as such) isn't really involved at all in any active sense for facelift mk1s. Which part number was fitted in driver's side door, and which is now? (Ideally including the bottom row of info on the label, starting with SK or VW). Most likely a driver's side module failure, see 'Entrepreneur Zone' sub-forum if a repair is desired. Extremely common for ebay ones to be incorrectly described and/or not really working fully.

Does it happen at a standstill, or only when moving?

I would just replace whole condenser. No idea why draining radiator would be useful. Sorry to not give it more thought, I have a nasty headache.

It does a bit, thanks.

What's going on with the hose right at the bottom of that pic? Looks like it has been cut partway through but very neatly. I feel I'm missing something or not seeing it right.

I think you would have to remove condenser from car to fit a replacement dryer, so no saving in disassembly effort.

A new condenser will have a new dryer, yes. Not sure if seperable on your car. I can likely check with VIN if you like. I've done a few attempts at repairs on leaking systems by just replacing o-rings, never with any lasting success. Your leak looks to be near the pipe join, but the dryer seal is at the top of that side 'tank' bit, I believe. I've had such little success with fixing leaky A/C that I just gave up on my car. It doesn't leak (rainwater), so winter drying function isn't missed, and it's only useful for a week or two in summertime here, so not worth the effort.

Gone.

@J.R. Great point.

You could probe the input pins to make sure the stalk command info is getting to the control unit, and link pins of the output connector to simulate the relay making connections, but I think you've probably already done enough to make it extremely likely that it's the relay. Yes, mk2 up to approx March 2010 build have the same general arrangement, not sure in later (facelift) mk2s. Note the different relay part number described in the fourth post, for control units with suffix - F part numbers, like yours I expect. Changing the whole control unit is another option, but some configuration with VCDS may be necessary if the relevant build options of the donor car don't match yours. New replacement control unit would be hideously expensive, I think.

That control unit is mounted above the clutch pedal on LHD cars. See first and fourth posts in this thread:

No see here LLLParts, items 22 hatch/saloon, 23 estate/combi, unless you meant the moulded in rearmost bits rather than the uppy/downy rear windows?

Items 20/21 here, I think: LLLParts They tend to need a socket extension to reach easily from the top, and try not to drop screw or bracket once loose.

If I do happen to get one for Christmas I'll be interested to set up something to see what current drain it really adds, when passive and active. Not too sure how Bluetooth works though, does that thing keep periodically trying to make contact with a(ny) paired device, or is the activity all at the other end until a connection is made? Anyone?

Some seals that VW-group call o-rings in the parts catalogue are actually rectangular section. Not these though.

A really nice aspect of this BM2 device is that it can tell you the battery voltage with the car fully 'asleep'. Many people try to measure without ensuring this state has been reached, and then reach conclusions based on poor data.

At about 4 years old your EFB battery may not have many more years left in it, especially if you use the start/stop function, but depending on the data coming from your BM2 and your interventions as necessary with CTEK you may well be able to extend its life by a winter or two. 👍

Yes, G65 sensor in pipework near coolant expansion tank will disable A/C compressor if it reads too low, I think. Yes, bumper off, normal shape O-rings may well come with new condenser, check with supplier.

I don't think I would try that recondition function unless the battery is actually in a state of deep discharge, unless you get CTEK to say it is OK for an EFB that is near or at full charge.