Breezy_Pete

Might be worth screenshotting some of the pics here for reference https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115590692033

Let us know how you get on, best of luck.

Price?

@Gerrycan I believe if you don't have start/stop or an AGM/EFB battery then you will have a fixed-voltage alternator which can do nothing with respect to regenerative braking.

The 1K2820304B number is the whole intake duct I think, including motor and the bits to the left and right of motor, under label 12 in the diagram. £348+ VAT new from Skoda, doubt you want to go there!

Seems to be 1 character missing, that's only 16.

Fling the VIN number my way and I may well be able to look it up for you.

@Crasher is probably the most knowledgeable on here about faults with CAYC's, but he's a busy professional mechanic so may or may not contribute.

See edit, 20 AWG is 0.5mm squared according to first Google result I found, not sure why I thought 24.

They'll be 0.5mm squared cross sectional area or thinner, so 20 AWG will be a sensible size to graft in, if that's equivalent. Make sure you go far enough to find clean uncorroded copper in each direction.

There's just one wire that connects driver's side and passenger side window motors on the facelift cars. A LIN bus data connection which is grey/white all the way, within each door loom, and from one side of car to the other in the cabin loom to each A-pillar connector. Here's the driver's side wiring, showing the permanent and ignition switched 12V feeds which would be good to measure at the motor connectors, both relative to the main thick brown earth wire.

Alternator exciter (blue) wire may have got broken during gearbox removal/refit, that would cause no battery light with ignition. There's a connector pair on a bracket near starter that will have been unplugged. May even just need reconnecting, if it got missed on reassembly. Battery may not have been getting much charge as a result, which could be relevant.

Do you know when your car was built? Profile says 2005, but you're saying 2004? Is it pre or post-facelift? If it's a facelift car, did your fuse check include fuse 11? Do the windows open/close if you turn and hold the key turned in the driver's door lock? Does the battery light come on with ignition?

Exciter wire is the thin blue one, one of the the two that connect via the little two-way plug. If the battery light works at all, that wire is OK, I believe. You might have some loom damage somewhere that's giving weird results when wet?

View from outside car. ECP suggested the wrong rating to another member based on his reg, so well worth a look. If you see 4 bar on it, please message me with your VIN so I can double-check the correct rating.

VCDS is ideal, let us know when the latest codes are read. Is there any chance that the fuel filter has been incorrectly replaced with a 4-bar rated one sometime? You should be able to see the pressure rating stamped into the rear end of the filter housing, just in front of the rear right wheel, inboard of the sill.

I visit Bury St Edmunds occasionally. If it's still giving trouble next time I'm heading there I'll aim to drop by for a look. What are you scanning with, or do you have to get a garage to do so at present?

That's how it should be. Was just checking that the PCV valve diaphragm had not ruptured and created a leak. Whereabouts in Suffolk are you?

Being careful not to get caught by the auxiliary belt, see if you can put a finger on the port shown arrowed here at the back of the engine, while engine is idling. Report what you feel on fingertip when that hole is blocked please.

Post them up (the exact numbers) when you have please. Also please check the brake servo vacuum hose if you haven't already done so, by eye and fingertip feel at each of the junctions between hard plastic pipe and other items like the non-return valve. Manual or auto gearbox?

VIN suggests front wheel drive, DQ200 transmission family.

Not sure, no personal experience of a faulty one, are you hearing any odd noises?

Check the freewheeling pulley.

Fraid I can't help with EGR knowledge, but with the headlight voltage, I'd expect lifespan to be inversely proportional to the square of voltage. See how you get on with reduced brightness though.

Yup. 👍