Breezy_Pete

Leave it until it fails MOT. If you replace it now with a cheap pattern part, that may well fail sooner than your existing one would have if you'd left it on.

I don't see a code for with/without cruise control in your photo. You may need to get the full car data to look for a code like 8T0 (without cruise control system} or 8T1 etc. Only if you are interested to know if the car was built with CC, or it was retro-fitted later. I became interested in this after retro-fitting my 9N Polo, then my partner's Mk1 Fabia with CC last year, both had PR codes 6Y0 and 8T0, naturally. When I investigated (on the Polo) I found no LED in the relevant position of the cluster circuit board (but the symbol cutout was visible in the panel), but also there were other components associated with the LED missing. I decided that even if I could correctly identify all the missing parts and fit them, the cluster software might not have the relevant code to illuminate the LED appropriately anyway, so I stopped pursuing it. The only time I find it non-obvious that cruise is active, is when it is set, then you speed up for a while ('manually' with accelerator pedal) and maintain a higher speed, then come off the accelerator but don't brake (say when approaching a roundabout). As the speed dips below the cruise setpoint, it takes over again. I wasn't aware that cruise control might do this, never having previously driven a car with CC.

PR code 6Y0 means without cruise control warning system, 6Y1 means with. You may not have either on the sticker though, as that only contains a small proportion of the build codes. May need to get full 'car data'. This seller offers a reasonably priced, rapid service on this info. VIN decoder that will show factory options Audi VW Seat Skoda | eBay

Post a photo of the build sticker from the boot floor (or decode all the PR codes yourself). It may show whether or not the car had CC from the factory. If it did, there's more chance an LED is fitted, if it didn't - less chance.

Wheel bearing?

You'll have to wait for owners of 2006 mk2 Octy to say if their car such an indication. Maybe CC was retrofitted?

All Fabias have CAN bus, but it won't be relevant for a stand-alone aftermarket system like Keith's, I think. Thanks Keith, by the way; my partner is delighted to be getting this late Valentine's gift. Super-romantic, right? 😁

Quite likely not something that this model is built with then. Other owners can confirm or not.

Did this green light work before now, and now doesn't? It will be a surface-mount LED soldered to a circuit board, not a bulb, if it exists.

A handy site to see which part numbers actually are equivalent is skoda-parts.com Type in a known correct part number for what you want, and it tends to take you to the page selling the latest version, but very helpfully all equivalent part numbers get listed in a grey font just under the main item title. e.g. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6r0615301c-front-disc-brake-256x22mm-ferodo-4177.html

Not something I can help with, sorry. Others are more than welcome to chime in though, if they have useful knowledge of such things. There are lots of things in ETKA that remain mysterious to me, I'll probably add some later as I think of them, in the hope someone can demystify. 🙂

It's often asserted on this and other forums that the letter(s) at the end of a (9 character) part number is 'just a revision level'. People claim and assume that an alphabetically later letter or pair of letters is the same part but new and improved, or from a different manufacturer, or whatever. They assume it'll fit and work But it simply isn't true, not all the time by any means. Example, brake discs with core part number 6R0 615 301 Without any letter at the end, that's a 256mm disc fitted to various Skoda models, as well as other VW-group cars. It's obsolete now, dropped on Feb 1st 2017, replaced by the part number 6R0 615 301C Not 6R0 615 301A which is a 288mm disc, nor 6R0 615 301B which is a 310mm disc. Neither of these is likely to fit or work... Another common error is to mistake the third character in a part number as a letter O when it is really a numeral zero. Hampers search engine research when this is mis-entered.

Is it an AUA engine code or BBY/BKY? For BBY/BKY here are the part numbers, there is a different oil separator part number if it's an AUA: Unless you are quite rich, you will probably want to find an aftermarket equivalent of that part number, rather than genuine, in the UK a genuine one is ~£135 !! Aftermarket are more like £40-50 here I think.

I would advise replacing the whole breather box, I think. Even if it doesn't look obviously clogged up, the internals are really impossible to clean effectively.

Which mount is in need of replacement?

Probably the smallest of the options being offered then, but if you send me VIN by private message I can look up tomorrow if you don't get definitive answers from others this evening.

Depends which engine is fitted, possibly other factors too.

He sent me this image in a PM when I asked same Lee:

Possibly an adaptation available in module 09? Or just press lock button on remote twice in quick succession, no?

No problem, PM me a delivery address and I'll get one on its way to you tomorrow. 🙂

Rather than aiming to replace wiring looms, I would instead suggest testing to see if the wires from the connector get to their destinations. Engine code will be needed to find the relevant information.

Will message you now. 🙂

If you've been there before that connection probably isn't the issue, even just removing and refitting it would probably improve the connection enough to make it 'good enough'. Do let us know how you get on with the replacement though. IIRC the top bolt is a bugger to get out, 'cos the top of the gear select mechanism is in the way of it coming all the way out (so is best removed). 18mm socket required on the main bolts, possibly a deep reach one on the top one, as there's the little M8 stud bit coming out of the head that that earth attaches to. 18mm ring-spanner is the alternative, obviously.

Have you ever cleaned that connection? You can probably ask the seller to cancel the transaction if you haven't.

Have you had this main engine earth connection off to clean up? Looks kinda corroded from what I can see in the pic, though it could be OK on the actual contact surfaces. If never removed and checked, that's very much my top suggestion before spending anything.