Breezy_Pete

Try removing and cleaning up the main electrical connections.

Pull upon the little cubby that's near your right knee when you're sitting in the driver's seat. Then pull it a bit harder and it opens further to reveal the diagnostic socket. 🙂

Use VW 502 00 spec and change it every 8 months. 😁

Also worth checking that the relevant fuses don't have corroded contacts or loose sockets in the fusebox.

No worries pal. The C/L versions have an 8-pin conn seen near the 2 in your second pic.

I have the vaguest of memories that the door open switch might be of the more traditional plunger-switch in hinge area on the non-C/L cars. The locks certainly look different, I think this is the latest revision for rhd drivers door: https://www.stevensvwspares.com/vw-lupo-door-lock-mechanism/drivers-side-front-door-lock-catch-manual Struggling to find 360-degree views of one, on phone. @varooom, can you perhaps do better? I seem to think this came up before and the conclusion was either that there are no electrical connections to these manual locks, or just a two-way. Can't remember which, but can't see one in that StevensVW pic.

The other problem with autodoc and all of its sister companies that pretend to be local by having .co.uk web addresses is returns. The parts tend to come from Berlin, or somewhere in Poland I think, so returning items will be a PITA. Use TPS if at all possible.

Great result and thanks for letting us know what fixed it. 🙂

My bad, sorry. Wouldn't worry about either to be honest, see if they fail next year, then do something.

That's referring to the rear bush of the front wishbone, both sides. Post the fail code number for confirmation.

extremely unlikely

The door lock fault can be the solder joints where the connector attaches to the circuit board in the lock also, as well as the microswitch. 20200910_155143 - Copy.mp4

Door problem will be the lock, I think. J519 has nothing to do with lambda sensors. I will post a circuit diagram of the lambda wiring for you tomorrow.

It's defeating my brain at the moment, sorry. You could measure the resistance of the heater on each sensor, I guess, in case both have burnt out 🔥?

The fuse supplies one side of the heater in each sensor, the other wire of each heater, and the two main sensing wires from each all go to the engine ECU.

No worries, but do look back at my edit to previous post. Might be a handy precaution.

Yeah, no problem to drive, especially if you don't fill it up so much that you (mis)trigger the low fuel warnings. Carry a spare 5L can in the boot though, for when you forget it's backwards and run out.

Well that page claims equivalence with both the numbers I've suggested, and more, but the skoda-parts.com pages I linked for you do not suggest that the two are equivalent. Those pages specifically mention different applicability (pre- and post-face-lift cars), so I think you've fallen victim to over-generalisation by Autodoc. PITA if you have to try to return to Berlin. The pumps are usually very reliable, I'd go 2nd hand off ebay if it were me.

Was just looking at part numbers now, for the petrol engines, 6Q0919051 suits pre-facelift cars like yours, 6Q0919051F suits cars from MY2005 onwards as far as I can see from these two pages: Fuel Pump China 6Q0919051 (skoda-parts.com) Fuel Pump Bosch 6Q0919051F (skoda-parts.com) What does the Autodoc part you bought claim as equivalent OEM part number?

Places like Autodoc and ECP often get such things wrong. Next time I get up I'll have a look at (genuine) part numbers and when the change was. Do you still have the old pump, and why did you replace it?

Was the replacement pump secondhand? At some time in the mk1 history they changed the way the fuel gauge sender works. Sounds like you may have a mismatch.

Can you clear the error codes? How many times have you driven the car since refitting the fuse?

@TheBlackDog If I were you I would take off each end of the chassis to engine earth cable, and clean thoroughly with very fine wet-and-dry lubed with WD40 or similar, or a fine wire brush. Cleaning without removing will do almost nothing. Alternator voltage regulators have a pronounced temperature dependence, which may account for some of the variance in readings that you are seeing. Approx -0.005V/°C from memory, so somewhere approaching half a volt higher when stone cold in winter compared to fully warmed up/heatsoaked alternator isn't unexpected.

Absolute pleasure, thanks for the shout out. Thanks @varooom for drawing my attention to it.

With an assistant to turn and hold the key in cranking position, measure for 12V at the connector of the 'wire of doom'.