Breezy_Pete
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Everything posted by Breezy_Pete
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Yep. Copper wiring is very ductile, so should stretch for a long way before it breaks in tension.
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Brown is generally an earth, black usually an ignition switched 12V. I'd just be pulling (firmly) all the other ones emerging from there, hoping that will bring the brown out. Wherabouts in the UK are you?
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Breezy_Pete replied to a post in a topic in Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda FormanMaybe keep the other switch for summer when ambient temps are higher and the delta may be rather less. 🙂
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Front or rear? And which exact bulb have you replaced them with, I seem to remember they are a slightly unusual fitment with offset pins. PY21W is the correct one (unless you're talking about the side repeaters)
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Only thing possibly worth mentioning is that the fans can suffer a failure mode that leaves them as 'unreliable starters'. There are two sets of brushes orthogonal to each other, and it can happen that one pair, or one brush of a pair, gets stuck in its holder and no longer reaches the commutator. In a how-to of fixing the low-speed resistor failure of these fans, the author unintentionally illustrates this by posting a photo of his fan's innards with two telltale, stuck back brushes, one from each pair (top two in image): http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/Imagewerx/Fan%20resistor%20fix/018_zpsdf767ee1.jpg This sort of partial failure may result in "sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't" behaviour. I think a supersedence of the fan part number for the single-fan version like yours is still used in some considerably younger cars, so ebay may have some reasonably priced second-hand genuine units. I bought one a year or two back for something like £30 delivered, which seemed good value for a genuine item that was I think maybe ten years old rather than 18 or whatever. I never installed it, as it happens, 6R0 959 455 E, I think, e.g. SEAT Ibiza 6J 2016 TSi Petrol model ENGINE COOLING FAN MOTOR and COWLING SHROUD | eBay
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7QTS3SD-iCA
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The last of those codes points to an issue with the wiring to the N280 valve, I think. Reddish-brown two-way connector pair on the bracket near starter motor is typical wiring trouble area. It's a bit odd, as you say, if it wasn't working at all you wouldn't expect the rev/load compensation. 95k isn't particularly high mileage, so I doubt the water pump has had it.
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I doubt your compressor clutch kicks in, because there isn't one. Your car has a variable displacement compressor controlled by a solenoid valve, N280. It's always pumping a little, even when A/C is switched off. Share the hvac fault codes for more suggestions. The radiator thermoswitches are not usually a failure point (other than coolant leakage), as they only carry relay coil currents, not fan motor currents, in this set-up. I wonder if coolant flow through radiator is low? How many miles on the clock? See how things settle down with new thermostat etc. 🙂
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Is your 1.4 a BXW engine code? If so, then yes, fuse 31 should be a 10A fuse feeding the heater circuit of both oxygen sensors.
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Do EU6 engine codes start with D instead of C?
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Found a list in a post by bluey here: https://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f40/volkswagen-under-investigation-over-illegal-software-masks-pollution-108532-9.html
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I think yours will be an EA189? What year?
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LEDs can be far more reliable, but aftermarket automotive ones are extremely variable in quality. Loads of posts on here about multiple failures in people determined to mess about with suchlike.
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No drums on a vRS @VWD.
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Is one of the hvac codes G65 low pressure? If so that may explain why AC isn't triggering fan action, just not getting the high side pressure up sufficiently to trigger it. I wonder if you've got some wiring damage that's affecting the positive feed to the coilpacks at high temps? The oxygen sensor heater fault may point to a bust wire at the interconnect down on that bracket in front of the gearbox. Is it an AZQ engine code or a BME?
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Have you looked at the brake servo vacuum hose at all? They tend to crack and leak at the joints of the hard plastic sections, and the plastic will be softer when hot, so more likely to open up. I would think this is more likely the cause of your misfires than the temperature. Two radiator fans or just one? The thermoswitch is a common source of leakage, and can generally be fixed by just tightening a little, 29mm spanner or deep socket. If you take the connector off to get a socket on, may as well bridge some pins of the loom connector whilst there to test each speed. I'll find a helpful photo shortly showing which pins to short. Ignition needs to be switched on to check full speed, but not the low speed.Does the temperature gauge ever go above halfway? Did your fuse check include blade fuses 8 and 11under the cover to the right of the strip fuses on the battery holder?LED lamps may well be even less reliable.Breezy_Pete replied to a post in a topic in Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda FormanMaybe the coolant flow is low for some reason?Breezy_Pete replied to a post in a topic in Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda FormanThe coolant temperature may be 100 at the engine, but with ambient temperatures low at this time of year, will probably be a lot lower at the thermoswitch. An IR thermometer pointed at radiator fins close to the thermoswitch may give clues about whether this hypothesis is correct/not.A thread here where the OP eventually told us that some injector cleaner fixed his red-hotness:I wasjust hoping you might find something that could explain the bad behaviour. Of course there may well not be anything visibly broken. A bad solder joint might be seen, maybe with magnification. PM me anything showing the circuit board, if you get in there for a look, please. 🙂I hope you will still do a post mortem on your old BCM ?Yep. No sense in replacing it if the readings are good.
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