Breezy_Pete

I'd be happy to have a look at it Ryan. I did repair what may have been the same unit type in a workmate's Fabia by just resoldering some of the connector pins. Getting to the board they were on was quite a mission though as I recall. Different fault, that one was intermittent speaker connections. See if waggling that grey/blue wire makes it come alight?

Backlight feed seems to be on the same pin on each car, pin 6 of black 8-way connector, so perhaps it's just a fault with the one you've bought?

Will compare wiring info when I next get up.

Do you know what year Octavia it came from, roughly?

Perhaps he's thinking of the very first VAG 3-cylinder engines in mk1 Fabias; they had a tendency to burn exhaust valves?

It only takes one piece of online info to be assumed correct for others to copy it. It's very easy to put stuff online.

Where is the online info from? Link? Unless from an official Skoda site I wouldn't trust it to be correct.

Agreed: I inexplicably thought we were discussing a petrol car.

Yes, the single cat ones must be adequate to pass an MOT; they will have worse emissions early in the warm-up phase of a drive cycle, but MOT tests up-to-temp tailpipe emissions only.

Longlife oil used in a car set to QG2 is OK. So use either 50200 or 50400 Non-longlife oil used in a car set to QG1 is not OK. Use only 50400.

Sounds like a logical idea, but fairly pricey to replace. Finding an OE type twin cat exhaust section may be a big challenge, most aftermarket replacements omit the precat, I think.

A witnessed scan of the ABS module (after a little test drive just in case they clear it prior to your arrival) showing no faults would be much more convincing, in my opinion. A printout or screenshot of the previous scan showing (just) this low voltage problem would be reassuring too, but I doubt it will be forthcoming.

https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/342411-dtc-17550-17558/ May be worth a look.

No. Fuel pressure is fixed at 3 bar by combined filter/pressure regulator near tank.

Oh, one more question- if you hold the key fully turned in the unlock position for a few seconds (with door locked initially), do both windows start descending?

Grab a photo of the part number label while you're in there. Do you still have the original module?

They should work once ignition is on too (even without key in lock action), hence the suggestion to check that fuse 11 feed.

That should be right then, unless someone had fitted a wrong part number into the donor car. See edit to my previous post, about checking the fuse 11 supply makes it to the motor module. If the bellows at the a-pillar has been on and off a lot, there may have been water damage to the connectors that it waterproofs, if it no longer fits snugly?

Fuse 11 is also for electric windows in the later version that you have where there are just two connectors going onto the drivers side motor module. It would be good to check that the (ignition on) supply from that fuse is making it to the motor module (black/blue wire on pin 2 of the 6-way connector at the module) Was the secondhand drivers side module you fitted an identical part number? Do you have a photo of the part number label from it?

Check fuse 11, top row, right hand one of the four.

Check the ABS fuses in the cabin, and battery-top fuseholders as a first step. Cabin fuse No. 25; Battery fusebox: strip fuse No. 6 and blade fuse (No. 7) just to the right of strip fuse 6 under a plastic cover.

Do it, it's the right one on your car.

Inlet manifold to head o-ring seals? Did you try your butane near that junction?

Does this BKY have an EGR valve? I seem to remember some do, some don't.

In that case I'd expect fuse 54 to be the alarm horn, if it is a 15 Amp one.