Breezy_Pete

Not sure about the clip. Hinging the front left corner of the car (lock carrier frame) forward a bit sounds useful in terms of creating more room for the box to move forward away from the subframe as it comes out. Removing offside drive flange also gives better manoeuvre room for getting box in/out. Are you completely removing nearside driveshaft? I left the outer end attached and found it kept getting in the way, so I will completely remove next time.

In my opinion the crappest bit is that the bellows goes more or less straight across from door to A-pillar. On mk1 Fabia there's a significant vertical offset/dogleg to it, which means the loom is twisted more than it's bent as the door moves, causing much slower degradation.

You've not let anyone down, you've solved a problem. 🙂 You may even have done me a favour by encouraging me to make a brief video showing how quick and easy it is to completely remove front doors on these cars. Remind me in the summer please someone. 😊

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Red/white feed to the cabin fan switch at the back of the heater/aircon controls may be your best bet. Right at the top of this diagram.

Occam's razor says 'it's a fair cop'.

The location of that oil suggests just overflow during oil change refilling. Easily done if pouring is too fast because there's a baffle that stops it going in easily/rapidly.

See edit to that post too.

For the wires that only have cracked insulation, I would do nothing more than a quick wrap round with a couple of laps of insulation tape. No point at all in cutting/remaking the copper which probably isn't damaged. For the ones that are really busted, I'd get the door off and on a bench for easy access, then strip back about 5mm of insulation from each broken end, find other bits of wire of similar cross-sectional area about 30mm long, strip back 5mm from each end of that, then tin all the ends and solder that extra bit to bridge and extend each of the broken originals, with a little (10mm long) heatshrink sleeving over each 5mm long solder joint. All the fuss about solder joints not being ideal is a bit over-fussy IMHO.

Looks to be the same as mk1, dead easy. Just needs an assistant to help with weight of door as it comes off and goes back on, particularly the latter so one person can focus on getting the hinges to drop back on their dowels. https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk2/body/body_work/front_door_central_locking/front_door/removing_and_installing_the_door/

It's probably worthwhile to research how easy it is to remove the entire door, for vastly improved access. On a mk1 It's really surprising how quick and easy it is to do this.

I'm sure lots of folks will be eager to test this theory!

. Sorry, not up to solving this at the moment.

OK, fair enough. I find that very often when people say 'fuses checked' it turns out later that they hadn't checked the right one, so I like to refer to specific ones, and give a location guide because fusebox diagrams are often generic for LHD and RHD cars, and lead to misunderstandings of the numbering. Edited to remove suggestion that doesn't make sense now I think about it.

Fuse 34 checked? Leftmost column, fourth from top, 5 Amp rated.

I expect just driving the car may clear these fault indications after a short while. Unless one is the Airbag light, which would require VCDS or similar to reset.

Ours goes in Weds. Good luck matey. 🙂

In that case I'd think it probably hasn't got an external EGR valve, judging by the lack of any such diagram title here https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/CIT/727/1 Not sure what that manifold hole is for. Could be coolant as a way of applying a bit of warmth to the throttle body area above, to prevent potential icing?

Yes, this. Which car and which engine? The linked valve and thread location suggests not the one in your profile.

https://youtu.be/_uTZWaJU6ho Interesting, I thought.

👍nice easy fix

Grab a photo of strip fuse no. 6 if you're not sure if it's OK or not. Sometimes the crack is easier to see in an image blown up on a big screen.

When you say all the fuses, does that include the strip fuses and blade fuses in the battery-top fuseholder?

You never answered my question on 27th December about whether this is a car with a DSG gearbox. Is it, or is it manual?

Brown wire is chassis earth, so no voltage is what you should expect.