Breezy_Pete

RHD fusebox is a rotated version of that, like this: I would think removing fuse 46 may well solve your problem, and probably easier to do than snipping any wires. Doubt it will have any other consequences. Edit: Does the car have start/stop? If it does not, it might be fuse 54 you need to remove, if it is 15 Amp fuse? Confusing mismatch between what that site you've quoted shows and what the official wiring info says about fuses 46 and 54.

Yes, well near the expansion tank black lump with in and out hoses, with two wires; and yes there's a hose from the crank breather module on the back of the block that comes up to the inlet mani just under TB.

EVAP purge valve hose to manifold and PCV valve ouput hose are other possible sources of airleaks.

You know that will make the brake pedal require a hell of a lot more pushing to get any braking effect, I presume.

Have you checked the brake servo vacuum hose and all its connections for cracks and leaks?

Overheating caused by corrosion of the cable crimp, I think. Does it work when you bypass the fuse as shown in last three photos? The cable next to it, which feeds the cabin fusebox, looks bad too, maybe water has been getting there somehow? Is the cover missing?

I cannot see enough detail from that photo, needs a better lit, better focussed shot please.

No.

I don't think the relay would affect the washers? Have you checked fuse 15? See here: Wipers not working?? - Read this first!! - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA Looks like your issue, see PastyBoy's post in there, quarter of the way down page 1. 👍

Pretty sure I've read this one-sided heat loss as a symptom of the silikat matrix blockage several times on here. Maybe the structure and connections of the matrix are such that when it starts to block up, one lateral side is more affected than the other.

Yes all the fuses in the battery fuseholder are permanent 12Vs. Check the blade fuses just to the right of the strip fuses, under a black plastic cover. Many folk don't realise they are there. Numbers 7 and 9 (or possibly 10 if built late in 2005) are relevant. Fuse 7 (25Amp) has a red/green wire going from it to ABS module pin 25, and Fuse 9 (or 10) has a red/white going to ABS pin 7. That one should be a 10 Amp fuse. Wouldn't be surprised if you find one of those blown, and possibly a corresponding wire damaged/shorting.

The strip fuses crack, they don't blow, so I doubt the wire replacement is causing any trouble. Remind me what year the car is please, on phone so no sigs/profile. There may well be another battery-top fuse.

Yes, if you know where to physically find it. It won't cause any other problems, I don't think. There may be a specific fuse you could remove as an alternative, I can look up which one if you like?

Part number for switch pack assuming manual rear windows appears to be 1J3959857A. About £50 retail for genuine now sadly: 1J3 959 857 - LLLParts With the part number you may find aftermarket ones that are perfectly adequate though.

Last time I bought a genuine switch pack it was somewhere around £35 I think, so not hideously pricey. I have a repair service for window motor modules, so would have given you some cash for your old one, to fix up and use as an exchange unit.

I'd have no concerns driving around with them. They won't get worse now you've got proper plastic caps on. As long as they accept a pump, no problem. 🙂

Any Skoda dealership should be able to get one for you. I can find the part number for you next time I get up. Have you still got the old motor?

Fuse 15 worth checking, if I remember correctly.

Bought from local Skoda dealership before proper diagnosis, and now not required. Still fully wrapped in original bubblewrap packaging. As per second item 2 here: LLLParts Bulky so collection only, or organise your own courier to collect. Located in Oxfordshire postcode area OX14 £80, no offers. That's almost 25% less than retail price. Move fast if interested, I can probably return it if no takers.

Good morning and welcome.

Attached is the indicator chip datasheet. I think it has current sensing of its outputs which is how it knows if something's changed. If you really want everything to work nicely with your LEDs you probably should measure each channel's output current with the correct bulbs in, then add parallel resistors between each output and earth to get the same currents with your LEDs in place. The outputs from the onboard supply control unit going to right and left indicators are from connector XS6 pin 14 and pin 16 respectively. Each feeds its front, side and rear indicator bulb. Indicator chip BTS540L.pdf

As far as I recall, the flashing frequency on this car isn't actually changed by a bulb being busted, it does make the telltale LED in the cluster flash faster (I think?) and the ticking noise double-speed to alert you though. The indicators are all powered by one two-channel solid-state device on the PCB of the onboard supply control unit. All three bulbs on each side are wired in parallel with each other, so the overall parallel resistance of each three is what is monitored. I have to agree that is an utterly pointless mod though.

Agree with the above. I just looked up the relevant ETKA page via LLL parts and the (genuine, new) prices of the alternators had me gasping a bit! There's one or two part numbers that go into 4 figures. 😲 LLLParts

Ah, a petrol, I see that now I'm on a computer and can see the OP's signature. In which case there are a few more emission types tested at MOT. But still plenty of emissions-related equipment that can go faulty, as well as other engine faults that might put on that same light (which is the EML as far as MOT is concerned) without necessarily having major impact on the tailpipe emissions. Needs scanning to identify why the light is currently on.

Is this a 1.2 diesel? If so, the only emission tested by MOT is particulates/smoke. There are various other components of the tailpipe emissions which are controlled by design, and presence and good function of various parts like EGR systems. (But invisible literally and to the diesel MOT test) The fault light you're seeing indicates a fault with such a system. You may have heard of NOx emissions in the context of modern German diesels, that's one of the poisonous tailpipe gases that may be badly affected by such malfunctioning systems.