Breezy_Pete

The key is to compress the rubber seal inside the thing to remove friction from the latch. As Nige says, this is accomplished by pushing the loom connector on to whatever it's plugged into prior to attempting to release the latch. Then listen for the click noise of the latch releasing before pulling the connector body other way to take the connector off. I like to use a flat blade screwdriver or similar, twisted/rotated, so that there is minimal risk of pulling too far and snapping the top of the latch release off. Here's a very short video of what I mean: 20210718_164741.mp4

Bear in mind that if the console bushes really have never been changed, you may have 'fun and games' with the front bolts being corroded into the consoles. Same also applies if they have been done in the past and these bolts re-used, which is a no-no for this very reason. Have you got any pics of the current bushes? Best taken from under the car looking forward at the rear end of them. This is what the OEM replacement (1K0407183A) x-style bush looks like from that angle: The original design (6Q0407183) has just two vertical rubber webs, one above, one below the hex hole, you can just about see in this pic:

No.

I'm not sure what the design is like on a mk1 Octy, but I'm pretty sure it's nothing like that on a mk1 Fabia?

Yep, Lite would do for the Fabia, but not the others.

Ah, the old goalpost shift, was expecting that. I created two of the same faults as the OP, by disconnecting the MAP sensor. These remained after reconnecting the sensor, and discoing the battery. I subsequently cleared them with VCDS. Would it have been better for me to change all the sensors?

What year is the Fabia? The freeware VCDS Lite will work up to March 2010 or thereabouts, from memory. Suitable cable for that is sub-20 quid. Other cars are probably more recent though?

Battery disconnect plus shorting terminal clamps together has no effect on fault codes stored in the engine ECU on my 2003 manufactured, BBY engined Polo. Just tried it for your benefit Sep. 😊 The OP may well be able to confirm or dispute this finding on his car if he tries the same today.

Not sure what the other part number you quoted is, the one ending 752J. Possibly just the metal plate minus the window regulator bits?

Take the spark plugs out tomorrow before running the engine and shine a torch down each of the holes, looking to see if any of the piston crowns look wet.

What device are you using to read the fault codes? Use it to clear them. Any that return will relate to the real problem(s) - but maybe not directly.

What area do you live in Raky?

Stop blaming sensors and stop unplugging them. Map sensor and intake air temperature sensor are in the same housing. In fact, the small bead that is just visible in your photos of the MAP sensor is actually the IAT sensor. This is why unplugging the 4-way connector from the MAP caused two new fault codes P0107 P0113. The other P0322 came from unplugging the crank sensor, the 3-way connector. See what's going on with your engine coolant first.

Yes, the one on the 3-potter can be very hard going, especially once the alloy of the block has furred up nicely around it and 'glued' it in place.

Considering both of my Polos must have that arrangement, and I carry a spare crank sensor in the underseat box of my daily, I should've got there a bit sooner. Crank sensors never seem to give any trouble, in my defence.

Aha! VEM Crankshaft Pulse Sensor V10-72-1270 FOR Polo Fabia I Golf Bora Lupo Octavia | eBay

1st one of those is consistent with crank sensor having been unplugged, and MAP sensor unplugging will have generated the other 2. Is there maybe a long captive lead on the BBZ crank sensor that means the plug/socket is up near the MAP sensor??

Hello

Crank sensor and connector for (dummy) vehicle speed sensor on differential are both 3-pin, I think, and on that leg of the engine loom.

Well spotted, but according to this page also equivalent. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6y1837462-power-window-mechanism-front-right-6024.html All 4 of the part numbers near the top of that page should be interchangeable.

The 462 part appears to be the correct number according to this page https://www.lllparts.co.uk/en/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/225/8/837/837060

I'm not sure what that 3-way connector in your pictures is from, maybe knock sensor? That's somewhere under the inlet manifold.

Ever-tighter particulates and NOx emissions targets have made fuel economy more and more difficult to achieve, especially with diesels. Shame really, cos obviously (real world) CO2 output goes up as fuel economy worsens.

@Murdockman you seem to be talking about the mk1 Fabia console bushes, which @26DIPP might be needing but only if his daughter's mk2 is a very early one, they changed to the style Carlston showed very early in the mk2 history. Chassis numbers either side of the change are shown in the titles of the first two diagrams here front axle, steering Fabia (FAB) [EUROPA 2007 year] (7zap.com)

Pretty sure I read somewhere - probably on Brisky - that the flushing involves a large number of iterations of fill, run around, drain.