Breezy_Pete

No, just drop the lower dash trim and look at the part number on the control unit! Or buy a suitable cheap KKL cable and download VCDS Lite (freeware). Examples of cables on UK ebay: vw kkl | eBay

There is a crap piece of design involved especially on the back doors, but it's not the seals. It's the brackets that allow the locks to come out with the assembly carriers (and back in). They actively divert water onto these carriers that would otherwise drip down the middle of the door harmlessly without challenging the carrier seal. You will see watermarks like this on any carrier that is removed, much more so on the rear doors as the quarterlight helps channel it exactly onto the bracket.

The wax thermostat (the thing you're pushing with your thumb) has a pin that comes out/extends as the wax melts, which will compress the spring and move the flap/clapet. In this application the wax will have a very low melting point, maybe around 20-30°C, so will soon extend the pin when there is a little warmed air around, and it will remain that way until it cools below that Unfortunately, as they age, they tend to lose wax, which means the pin extrudes less and less, leading to the flap not opening fully, or at all. I would think that in Greece, for most of the year, fixing the flap in the cold air only position will be best, unless you can demonstrate that this thermostat is working well.

Failed clutch switch can take out cruise control, I think.

Do you use the start/stop system, or habitually switch it off?

Does your car have the Koyo, or TRW steering system?

That user last visited the forum nearly 10 years ago Kharl, so I think the chances of an answer from them are poor. There was a change sometime from a sensor with an integral cable to one with a plug-in cable. You need the same type as you already have if replacing.

Looks like it, yeah. Seems to be same thing as this Volkswagen / Audi / Seat / Skoda Exhaust Pipe With Catalyst<Br>And Particulate Filter 2Q0254502HX - LLLParts judging by the dual numbering in this ad: Partikkelfilter til VW Polo, 2017->> (Type VI) (2Q0 254 502 HX|2Q0131723), Motorkode: CHZL, DKLA, Girkode: SST (finndel.no)

I seem to remember that your fusebox above the battery is a big mess? So maybe a bad contact or wrong fuse installed for the PAS?

I keep meaning to do a Guide thread with pictures of the two units, their locations and functions; but never seem to get round to it. It doesn't help that there are so many names for each of them, some of which are very similar.

VCDS autoscan will tell you the part number of the Onboard Supply Control unit (often confused with Central Convenience unit which isn't relevant here) at address 09 Central Electronics. Needs to start with 6Q0 or 6Q1 rather than 6Q2, I believe. e.g. (in first orange rectangle)

They are both for dipped beam, 57 left, 58 right. Unlikely that both blew.

Hello, On the basis that this page Flat Contact Housing, 2-pin Germany - OE producer 8T0973702 (skoda-parts.com) suggests 6E0973702 as an equivalent part number for the one you've found, I reckon this looks the part: VW AUDI VAG 2 Pin Connector ABS Speed Sensor 6E0973702 Pre-wired 6E0 973 702 780669637921 | eBay Tempted to get myself one as a standby TBH.

Can be slow delivering, but this lot will probably get you some at a good price https://www.lllparts.co.uk/en/

Inlet manifold to PCV valve, inlet manifold to purge valve, inlet manifold to servo.

In the bottom hose connection area of the radiator, I think.

AWY and BMD never had one. AZQ always had, BME had one until end of 2005, then didn't.

BZG engine ECU is powered via an ignition switched relay, so as far as it knows the battery is disconnected every time the ignition is switched off. Just. Saying.

No. Won't don't any harm, won't do any good either. Repairing that pipe won't even make any real difference except keeping out unfiltered air.

Mythology for most recent engine ECUs. frankly.

Yes, and yes, I'd join it in somewhere closer to the wheel, just making sure to waterproof well. Or just bodge it better as you say.

What for?

Front right sensor (G45) to pins 6 and 18 of ABS module connector:

Straight to the ABS module under the ECU, I think, but will check any sec. £73 for a connector with a length of wire on it sounds mad. I'd be surprised if you/we can't find a connector that does come with wire tails pre-installed, which you could just extend as necessary with something like 0.5mm pond cable (similar rubbery outer to the OEM cable).

Shouldn't be a problem now that you've eliminated the root cause of the vibration Kharl. The genuine one does appear to be a bolt: Screw M8x50 genuine part N0195433 (skoda-parts.com) Correctly tightened in this application I wouldn't think there's much difference.