Breezy_Pete

@VanhireBoys Have you been seeing oddness from the electric window on the side with the broken clip? I've been tackling ours today (driver's side) which had - as suspected - some up/down waggle at the rear of the glass when half open. This has indeed turned out to be the same as what you've suffered, broken runner. Good info from @sepulchrave earlier in the thread. Reason I ask about the electric window is that our driver's side one has been 'mischievous' lately, and I suspect this has been down to the broken runner making life harder for the window motor. What it's done quite often is that if you have the window down a bit, say one-quarter open, and then you go to close it again, the window goes up a tiny bit and then comes back down. Pretty sure this is the 'anti-pinch' function getting false-triggered by the extra resistance of window glass that's only being moved unevenly by just the front runner. Never seen it go up when commanded down. I was hoping to get to the point of testing it with new regulator panel today to see if that's gone away, but had a few issues fitting my replacement lock unit that I wanted to do at the same time, and now it's too dark.

erWin isn't really the place for part numbers, but there's always something ETKA-like free online to get parts info once you have the PR codes. My favourite just now is this one, which includes very recent stuff: LLLParts

Oh, apologies then, they must've "improved it worse".

Can you not go to Vehicle specific information then vehicle identification, then enter VIN to get to 'car data'? Used to be that way.

Not sure how much this page helps, but it's the only one out of three pages on rear discs that has unvented. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/en/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/6/615/615050

You could ask a friendly dealership parts counter person for the full 'car data' pdf. Failing that you could pay for that same info at erWin Skoda (7 euro plus vat).

Got it. I'll leave you in the capable hands of the other guys here then.

Sorry; then I misunderstood your other post, I thought you were saying you'd just got a Roomster? 2013 cars will all be CAN: Don't think any of 08 Octy, Touran or Passat will be non-CAN, but not sure. Never heard of VCDS Free, but it sounds like it might be the old name for VCDS Lite.

Sure, but an option for the one specific car if it is pre March 2010. Is it @Enfys-Tan?

Big array of VCDS options here: Audi, VW, Seat, Skoda tools :: Gendan Automotive Products Includes super-cheap option of KKL cable which I think will work with the freeware VCDS Lite if your Roomster (mentioned in other post) happens to be an early one.

There's probably an original software version printed on the case. I wonder if @rum4mo knows what his originally was and what version they updated to? There must be hundreds of thousands of these units out in the wild so it must be specific to a particular software version number, I'd think. I speculate that the number in the red rectangle is the SW version this unit was born with:

How are the tyres?

Check when hot, may be fine. VW group may well specify capacity to midway between min and max, or even lower in these days where emissions regs and targets govern so much above good sense.

What's the level now with the engine at operating temperature? Sounds like you were checking it cold?

Having seen one in the flesh for the first time this past week, I can now happily report that the 6Y1959801A and 6Y2959802A parts as found in the driver's door of cars with front and rear electric windows can now be included in what is repairable here.

Power to window motor module, I think. I'd say this means it's the lock unit that's playing up.

They usually switch from open (not conducting) to closed (conducting) when pressure is above the threshold they work at. Not near computer now to help further, but that does ring a bell as the right wiring colours for the other one.

@xman I thought he said he'd already cleared code. @froggy8 you need to make sure you know the right left...

Without engine code I'm guessing a bit, is it a CKFC engine? See my signature for a thread link describing how to find this if you don't know already. If so there's another switch known as F378 "Oil pressure switch for reduced oil pressure" possibly near the other one? Black/red and brown wires go to it.

Don't just assume that anything with a letter later in the alphabet as a suffix is compatible and equivalent. It sometimes works that way, but far from always. I find skoda-parts.com a good way of looking up part numbers that actually are interchangeable, see this screenshot for the selection that includes the suffix -D part:

I think that 100mA drop in consumption when you hear the click maybe means the problem isn't anything to do with the interior light relay. There might still be a fault in the control unit, but several other units might be the cause too. I think, but don't know, that the parking aid control unit will be behind some trim in the trunk/boot area. That sounds like a good thing to disconnect to see if that alters the behaviour.

When you say voltage regulator, do you mean "vehicle voltage control module" as mentioned on that fuse diagram? If not, what? There is a voltage regulator within your alternator, which keeps the system voltage at about 14.5V as far as possible while the engine is running. If "vehicle voltage control module" is what you mean, it's the same thing that you are calling Comfort Module, and controls much of the equipment in and beyond the cabin, such as interior lighting, windscreen wipers, direction indicators, horn, etc. How are you measuring the parasitic drain through fuse 22? Current measurement with meter in place of fuse, or (mV) voltage measurement across the fuse with it in place? The latter is better as it doesn't require interruption of the circuit. It's normal for the interior light relay (inside Comfort module) to remain energised for some time (default 30 minutes I think?) even after the lights go off, so you need to measure the current after that 30 minutes. In my experience this still shuts off OK with the door open to allow access to the fusebox. Just don't close and then re-open the door. Have you replaced any bulbs in the cabin (or elsewhere) with LED types?

@GL0337, any luck?

1. Fix the servo pipe. 2. Move coilpacks between cylinders 1 and 3 (swap positions). 3. Drive for long enough to see either a) problems all gone and no codes come back, or b) misfires logged but now on cyl 1 - replace that one coilpack which was on cyl 3, now on 1, or c) misfires return on cyl 3. Time to compression test.

Diagnostic for ours, not his.