Breezy_Pete

I'll take a guess that this means how to force a DPF regen with VCDS?

There's this one, by the oil filter (item 14) oil filter bracket; oil filter - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2002 year] (7zap.com)

I think VCDS Lite does it, cos that's all I have. Engine ECU measuring block 033.

Could do with reading the voltage on precat sensor with VCDS instead to see if it's just that app which is reading it wrongly

There are on ours! Item 35 here: door trim panels - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2005 year] (7zap.com)

I was under the impression that the 3 screws at the bottom edge of the card were completely inaccessible with door shut, but a quick feel suggests they can be got at. Problem will be freeing the front quarter of the card as it overlaps the end of the dash quite a bit, with very little clearance. Destruction of some of the trim clips and fittings that hold them on the card seems likely.

On a traditional sensor, yes. On a wideband sensor, no. I posted the workshop manual info before, but here it is again, I think somewhere previously it mentioned a pre-requisite of the engine being up to temperature, but my experience is that it gets to the quoted number and maintains it from with a minute approx. of cold start. :

Mean. How would you take it off if you can't open the door? The only way I can see is destructively, so maybe buy a matching spare first?

Vehicle voltage control unit is not the the thing on the alternator, it's a name that Skoda decided to call the Central Electronics control unit in early mk2 Fabia, (not the Central Convenience unit, that's another) Voltage regulator = part of alternator that should be keeping system voltage around 14.3V Vehicle voltage control unit = VCDS address 09 = J519 in wiring diagrams = Onboard supply control unit (what Skoda called it in mk1 Fabia) = BCM (name for it in later mk2s) = what I have pictured in linked post with burnt capacitor, it lives above the accelerator pedal on RHD cars, above clutch pedal on LHD. Central convenience unit is a different module (VCDS address 46; J393 in wiring diagrams) which lives nearer to the centreline of the car, it deals with locks and alarm mostly. I don't see any evidence for its involvement in your problems, unless I missed something.

Took me ages to find these pictures! https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/490993-fabia-vrs-wipers-not-working/?do=findComment&comment=5514418

Central convenience module isn't in that list of things supplied by fuse 22, but the suffix B version doesn't seem to be compatible with suffix A, judging by its non-appearance in the short list of equivalent part numbers here: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5j0959433a-central-control-unit-24088.html I'd be tempted to extract the voltage control unit (the one I pictured above) from the car, open it and examine for any signs of damaged components. On the earlier versions (suffix C, D) there was a surface mount capacitor that sometimes seemed to burn out, and cause current drain problems. Maybe the suffix-F has inherited this genetic flaw.

That's why you flick the bonnet latch over, so the car sees it as shut.

Sure enough, new regulator with a full complement of intact runners has removed the up/down weirdness. What a grim job on later cars with riveted panels though. 😢

Haven't watched it but love Big Clive's other stuff. Does he mention cleaning the contacts that touch the battery while you're at it? Well worth doing in my recent experience, where just doing that fixed a fob that the new battery didn't.

Wideband ones tend to sit at a pretty solid, constant value, as they are controlling the fuelling accurately in real time to maintain lambda=1. I posted the expected value range upthread somewhere. No idea how or where you've measured a CO2 number from. CO is measured at MOT, not CO2, so it may not even be relevant.

Nice one. I can't remember where I bought ours, but seem to remember it being around 40-odd quid; perhaps 6 or 7 years back. If you can buy a new one at all it looks like being hard to justify: 6Y0862531H47H - LLLParts

Not sure if you can get a view of the motor without full door card removal, but if you can, see if the VAG part number label is visible on that metal can around the motor. If it's facing the door and not visible, it's probably been accidentally switcherood.

Someone may have messed with the window motor module too. If the metal casing round the motor part is mis-fitted by 180 degrees it swaps rotation.

One reason for misfires on the HTPs, though mostly the single-cam 6-valve ones, is exhaust valve damage. This might show up as a lower compression value on that cylinder compared with the other two.

Don't suppose you own a compression tester or know anyone that does?

Can you repair the servo pipe better to temporarily ensure that it's not leaking at the cracked sections? Self-amalgamating tape reinforced by a few cable ties is probably better than anything else bodge-wise, and what I've done on my Polo recently as a stop-gap until I replace it. I keep meaning to see if the one on my other Polo is the same and in a better state, as that car's off the road.

Let's hope so.

Best thing to do with a post that doesn't interest you is not reply, obviously. If that's the general consensus, it's soon going to drop out of view. 🙂

GSF appear to do slave cylinders for about half what that ECP one costs, e.g. this comes from an ebay search of the genuine part number: Seat Cordoba 6L2 2002-2009 Clutch Slave Cylinder Hydraulic Replacement Part | eBay

Pretty sure it's the 6QE721261 number you need, or aftermarket equivalent. PR=0EM means MQ200 box. That code isn't on the sticker of our very similar car, but is in the full car data of it.