Breezy_Pete

Thanks Lee. I suppose a missing 'executive summary' is that if you want one for a RHD mk1 Fabia, where the existing unit will have SK240DDRS as that bottom line of the label, get one that says exactly the same there, as well as the main 6Y2959802 part number. For LHD mk1 Fabia you'll want a 6Y1959801 instead, with SK240DDLS as that line. In both cases this only applies to later cars from approx July 2004 onwards, earlier cars will have parts with numbers starting 6Q, which have connector/wiring/functional/comms protocol differences that make them non-interchangeable.

It's not that critical, just pump it up until it doesn't look 'soft' and squidged at the bottom. How long do you plan to drive around on it? Surely only 'til the normal tyre is repaired or replaced? A day or two?

I would've thought it would be quite quick and easy to replace, after having removed any engine undercover which may be obstructing access. The two fasteners/screws that hold it in place may have been lost, but I'm sure any garage could find something usable kicking about.

The part number on it confirms @J.R.'s idea 100%. 1j0407721g | eBay That (O/S) driveshaft will have been removed to improve access to the EGR.

You need to obtain a Freedom membership before you can sell here. Link to the page where you can select one: Membership Options (Freedom) - BRISKODA

I believe it's part of this chunk here, that all the heavy-gauge wires bolt to. Often the left-most stud, I think. (see if that wire goes to the alt.). If you have 12V on each of those studs I'd say the fuses are all intact. Careful not to short anything out while checking.

Can you post a picture of the fusebox under the bonnet, including the face that's nearest the front of the car if poss.

Adding this info to the thread as this thread comes fairly well up the google results when searching 6Y2959802: Some part numbering info that I have recently, I think, understood. There is much more info on this label than just in the 9-digit VW group part number at the top of the label. The key thing to note about that 6Yx95980x number is that on passenger side modules, the 3rd and 9th digit are always different, on driver's side modules they are always the same. You need a driver's side module on the driver's side! It's the master in the system. Suffix A (on this 6Y... series) after the 9th digit indicates a module made for a car with all four windows electric With reference to this photo, and the colour coding I've added to the bottom line, here is my best understanding so far of what this info means, and most or all of the variants you may see. The green box identifies the brand the module was made/programmed for. Always either SK for Skoda, or VW for Volkswagen. The three-numeral section underlined in orange is model identification. 240 for VW Polo and Skoda Fabia Mk1; 250 for Skoda Fabia Mk2, 258 for Skoda Roomster, and 750 for VW Transporter. The two letters underlined in blue are always either DD or PD. As far as I can see this always means Driver's Door and Passenger Door respectively. There may be a numeral 2 or 4 in between these two letters, 4 meaning all four windows are electric. Not sure what 2 indicates, it's often omitted as in the above photo. Might only appear on early examples. The last two characters underlined in red (RS or LS) indicate whether the module was made for a Right-Hand Drive car or Left-Hand Drive. "Right Steering" or "Left Steering" Hope this proves useful, comments welcome. Cheers, Pete

Yes it is. Always numbered from engine to exhaust tip.

Have you managed to loosen the fill plug OK? Best not to drain the box before making sure you can...

Attempting it after a longish drive or after a hair dryer is applied to the general area for several minutes ought to help prior to any chiselling or similar. The alloy of the gearbox should expand quite a lot more than the steel plug.

Remove fuse 20 and put your current meter in series with the contacts where it plugs in, see if there's half an Amp going through it. You could measure mV across its ends with it still in position if it's the fuse type that has exposed metal pads on the top surface, see here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/377587-technical-bulletin-about-parasitic-current-draw-measurement/ Measure all the other fuses if that one doesn't register any mV. I've personally found in a few cars I've looked at that 30 minutes is a good time to leave things to shut down, and that having doors open and car not locked doesn't matter. May well vary with model.

Which engine and gearbox does the car have? Can you post a photo of the state of the plug,

How was the fuse?

It will have 4. It's a hall effect sensor integrated with two 'virtual' switches to simulate the old pedal type. Check cabin fuse no.2 (5 amp), if your engine code is AZV or BKD. If it's neither of those, what is it?

The switch you changed had 4 wires, right?

Correction: I think @vindaloo's numbers should end 655 and 656 rather than 755/756?

Maybe this would be the way to go, rather than secondhand where the plastics will be old and possibly about to break?: SKODA FABIA WINDOW REGULATOR REPAIR KIT REAR LEFT N/S | eBay New genuine via @vindaloo's first part number will be around £70 from a dealer, I believe. New aftermarket of whole panel is probably another good solution if you can find one.

Selfishness seems to be a major problem with public charging, exacerbating lack of infrastructure. Is 2030 really far enough off, I wonder?

I think that's for electric rear window. What happened to your original?

No MAF on this engine, MAP sensor in the inlet manifold instead. Breather/PCV/PCV heater module is on the back of the block with a convoluted output hose up to the inlet mani just under the TB. Item 19 here: cylinder block with pistons; oil sump - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2008 year] (7zap.com) Can get clogged up and cause overpressure/oil leakage elsewhere. Engine coolant temperature sensor is worth looking at if your 'little computer' can read that data from the engine ECU. If that's reading well down on reality it may cause overfuelling. The gauge in the cluster, if there even is one, is heavily 'sanitised' to read mid-range over a wide real range of temps, so can be misleading.

This page randomly found shows the hose you want as a separate item (15) but also mentions referring to a TPI, so it sounds like there's a known issue: Volkswagen / Audi / Skoda Connecting Hose 04E133366EF - LLLParts That diagram also suggests that item 14 does include what you need. Suggest a chat with a Skoda parts counter person.

I guess you mean the convoluted hose going to the purge valve? Not clear from the parts diagram whether item 14 includes the pipe/hose you want, as well as purge valve and other pipework. Google images for the suffix BE part don't help much: LLLParts

No, just drop the lower dash trim and look at the part number on the control unit! Or buy a suitable cheap KKL cable and download VCDS Lite (freeware). Examples of cables on UK ebay: vw kkl | eBay