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Breezy_Pete

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Everything posted by Breezy_Pete

  1. VCDS Lite (freeware) in its registered form (99USD) with a cheap FTDI/KKL cable (<£20) will do it I think; but there's really no need unless you know air has somehow been allowed into the ABS pump.
  2. However you manage to get the white bit out, you definitely want to refit the rubber boot to it before you fit it back in at the end of the job. It's a real struggle to get the boot properly onto it in-situ, but really easy when it's out with all the cables unplugged.
  3. The white bit is intended to come out with the rubber boot still fitted to it, squeezing the vertical edges in towards each other should release the clips. Easier said than done TBF. Then there are individual release catches on each of the four connectors that you will have slightly better access to with boot and white surround pulled as far back as poss along the wiring.
  4. I think the answer is that the front door modules are data-connected to/by the convenience CANbus; but the rear door window modules are only connected by single wire LIN bus to their respective/same-side front door modules. So although the rear may have all its wiring intact, if its same-side companion front door module isn't operational, it won't get command info from anywhere central.
  5. There are two switches involved, one causing the brake lights to come on, the other one informing the engine ECU that the brakes are being applied. They're both in the same housing. The brake lights working doesn't prove that the other is, unfortunately. On your car I expect the switch(es) are on the underside of the brake master cylinder rather than at the pedal. The wire from the relevant switch going to the ECU may be a white/green one from pin 1 of the 4-way at the switch connector to ECU pin 21. Access is not easy, I believe, on RHD cars. I would be inspecting that wiring and connections prior to purchasing anything, if it were my car.
  6. I'd be very surprised if it didn't.
  7. Private sale, sold as seen; I expect.
  8. Same for both according to that ETKA page.
  9. Is there a sticker on top of the cambelt cover? Or one in/near the spare wheel well. A photo of either of those would show it.
  10. Dunno what to say other than good luck on Friday, and look forward to hearing about the success soon after.
  11. Good find, that'll be useful for more than just you I reckon.
  12. The bottom of the door, probably. Any scrapyard mk1 Fabia, alternatively.
  13. Maybe just leave it off rather than replace? That way it's already fixed.
  14. I bet! The screws may be fun to remove, as at least one of them is quite hidden behind the drive flange/hub ISTR. Hard to get tools on. The screw heads have typically corroded to unrecognisable shapes.
  15. Is that the stoneguard come away completely and made its way there? Item 6? floating caliper brake; brake caliper housing; bra... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2006 year] (7zap.com)
  16. Your engine code is either AEH or AKL, your oxygen sensor should be part number 06A906262AK.
  17. That's not your engine code, but I may be able to figure out what it is from that part number. Hang on while I look.
  18. There are surely more mk2 Fabias driving around with broken wiring than fully intact wiring in those door bellows. Proper cockup of a design those 'straight across' bellows.
  19. Have a look at fuse 11, and the black/blue wire from it via pin 7 of the 28-way at a-pillar. Thinner of the brown earths also possibly implicated.
  20. Blowhards should expect to be mocked, and bring it on themselves. Hope this helps.
  21. The part number is readily available in your second photo 1J0 122 291F
  22. You guys can greenwash til you're blue in the face but there's a finite proportion of electricity that's renewable and a far higher proportion of the population claiming they use it and only it. And now I'm out.

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