Breezy_Pete

P0171 is 'too lean' fault code I think, so most likely a vacuum leak somewhere. See if there's a little port/vent on the top rim of the PCV valve near the oil filler cap. Stick a finger over it with engine running and see if anything changes. How many miles on the car?

Hmm, the shape of both bits looks quite different to me, making me think that what you have there probably is aftermarket, hence the lack of useful markings (and value).

I'll dig out some photos in a bit of one I got fixed with a new flexi. Can't remember if there are any markings visible but the shapes may show similarities/differences.

Well if you're not sure if the female thread is actually damaged, you should find that out first, just use the other (undamaged?) guide pin as a tester to see if it goes in OK and tightens up without slipping. The repair kits exist because this is such a common knob-up caused by failing to get the caliper back in position properly before starting to do up the guide pins.

It'll be one of the numbers here, depending on chassis number, and manual/auto gearbox: Will you send me 10% of what you make? Might be aftermarket though if there are no VW group logos anywhere to be seen, in which case it's probably worth about £5 for both bits.

You can buy repair kits for the threads, or fit a helicoil. I think the top four or five results here are the sort of thing that'll do the job. Considerably less work than replacing the whole shebang. m9 caliper repair: Search Result | eBay

Have a look at that servo hose, and look at the sticker in the spare wheel well or service book for your engine code.

Sounds like a good thing but actually indicates something's wrong. Is it an AZQ or BME engine code?

Best full tank average on our 1.2/12v is a shade under 52mpg, long-term cumulative average over last ten years is 42. @nevsummer have you ever checked your brake servo vacuum hose for splits at the junctions of the hard plastic sections with the non-return valve. Possibility that your car is running lean. Do you have any means of scanning for fault codes?

@TheWanderer, why not walk away now that you've had your say?

Did you check the wiring inside the rubber boots on both front doors?

Possibly some worn areas on the potentiometers such that the position signal is unreliable.

Well ETKA confirms that I was 100% wrong about you changing the wrong thing, item 15, clearly described as V71, clearly described as recirc motor: evaporator housing; air distribution housing; evap... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2012 year] (7zap.com) Apologies for my confusion. As far as testing used motors, I can't suggest much beyond what you've tried, fit and test.

I'm more wrong than I thought. Can't see V154 on Climatronic wiring diagram, only Climatic version, so you're probably right that it's called V71 in Climatronic, strangely. Still reckon two dead secondhand motors is very possible.

I'm wrong too. V68 is the temperature flap motor. V71 is the one on climatronic systems that does vent selection.

I think you may be wrong. V71 varies the ratio of cold/hot air in the heart of the system, not the external/internal air source selection, I think.

Where is the one you're changing? In the middle of the car or at the end of the dashboard? Recirculation motor is at end of dashboard, V71 is near centreline, I think?

Actually, hang on, recirculation motor is V154 isn't it? Have you replaced the right thing? Photo?

One of the more common failures in Fabias, so chances of getting a working one secondhand quite low in my opinion.

With this being a mk2 Fabia, broken wire(s) in the front door wiring bellows would seem like the most likely explanation for the symptoms you're seeing, I think. Grey/white wire broken would be my guess.

Most connector housings will have their part number somewhere on them, albeit often in tiny characters.

VCDS Lite is the single most useful tool you can have.

The only things that you'll need to do after the battery change is reset the time and reset the one-touch window opening/closing. Virtually any battery that physically fits, with +ve and -ve terminals in the same positions will do.

Check cabin fuse 3 (5 amp). Did you never get VCDS and suitable cable?

With window half open, gently try lifting the glass by hand near the rear of the pane. I think you'll find a lot of movement there compared to doing the same further forward. That'll be the rear slider broken, and the front one doing all the work.