Breezy_Pete

Try here: LLLParts

You realise I'm laughing at you there Graham, right?

Oh dear. 🤣

Try turning the diagram in the manual the other way up, and then see if there's a 40A fuse there, Left column fifth position up from bottom, I think. A LHD/RHD thing where the manual confuses more than it informs.

Off Topic in this instance, I think. @mandp I got a nice well-above-longterm-average 47mpg out of my last tank of E10 in my Polo. Can't say I'm experiencing any negative changes thus far in either car.

You just about get a glimpse of part of the correct connector at about 44 seconds I think, but it's not clear. In reference to this picture below, you show the bottom couple of connectors (4 and 6 way lambda sensor ones, pink star and below in my pic here) a few times in photos you've got above and in the video, but your camera is too low to see the top one (red arrow in my pic) that is the one you're looking for. I see you don't have A/C so you won't have the brown ones in my pic, and the bracket may have a gap there with nothing in, or the alternator conns may be moved down to that location:

The alternator pulley is shown not to be the type with freewheel clutch, so that won't be broken! Can you link to the video?

Third and last photos have captured the lowest couple of connector pairs on the rusty metal bracket where the alternator connections are, but you can't see the top two 2-way connections, the brown and black ones visible in photos of the red Fabia in the thread I linked you to in a post above, on Sunday evening.

Check the connections to the heating element for corrosion, and clean them if it is found.

Perhaps worth adding that a suitable cable for VCDS Lite can be had for very little cash, compared with the cost of the full version. <£20. Registering the free software to unlock more functionality is only a further 99USD.

I don't have access to a suitable mk2 amongst friends, neighbours or workmates. I do have a cable, keen to know that it can and does work on early mk2s and for owners of such cars to be aware, if it isn't common knowledge.

I agree, which is why I chose the title I did.

I never seem to see it mentioned, but wiring diagrams, and this page about diagnostic protocols suggest to me that VCDS Lite (the freeware version) ought to work for those built before 2011, given a suitable third-party cable. VAG Protokollkompatibilität (blafusel.de) Ross-tech suggest that it only works on pre-2006 cars: "VCDS-Lite is our low cost solution for older (pre-2006) VW-Audi Group cars that do not require a direct CAN diagnostic connection. " It seems to me this shouldn't exclude early mk2s up to the end of 2010, going by the German link above. Who's tried it? Anyone near me (Oxon) that wants to try it, for nowt?

Happy days.

I have this one, but there are millions of similar ones out there, including many cheaper ones I expect. VW Audi Seat Skoda USB Interface for VAG-COM 409.1 or VCDS Lite - most VAG 1996-2003 (gendan.co.uk) Cheaper one that's probably identical, others will poss be even cheaper: OBD2 USB cable, FTDI FT232RL | eBay Don't bother with any off ebay that come with software on a CD or similar, you're far less likely to bring spyware onto your lappy if you download the Lite software direct from its authors, Ross-tech.

No pressure to speak of in a sump though, unless there's a breather fault.

Ah, sorry I see what you both mean now that I look at one and feel it up close. Quite unnecessary though as J.R. says.

Surely the point of it being a Dowty washer is that it's the rubber bit does some sealing, otherwise how is it better than a flat washer?

And what, add it to the existing captive washer, attempting to create a radial seal onto the smaller-than-thread-size plain shank part of the bolt? (Instead of the designed face seals either side of the washer?) Or remove the old washer somehow? Have you done this with this style of plug + washer?

VCDS Lite is your friend. Less than £20 for a suitable cable, free software download from Ross-tech, bit of faffing to get it all working on a laptop then you have diagnostics and fault clearing for next to nothing. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Functions I have no reason to believe you'd need to register the software to clear an airbag fault code, but I could test with a previously unused laptop if no-one else can confirm.

Post DPF pressure should be close to atmospheric due to the open tailpipe further down. So penny-pinching means you see what you've found; just the pre- connection

Looks like there's a wire retainer that you have to fully withdraw, then it pulls straight off. Likely to need a good tug to free the old o-ring, possibly a bit of a twist as you pull. Similar to a lot of radiator hose fittings:

I would read the part number off your existing switch unit and match that. Sounds like that needs replacing anyway. I'm failing to find it in parts catalogue just now, and due at the dentist shortly.

They should have adjusted it so that it was correct and the steering wheel was centred, which usually means adjusting both tie-rod ends instead of just one. Laziness probably, or one was seized so they had to do it all on the other.

Seal is also - maybe primarily - to keep any possible leaked exhaust (or other) fumes from directly entering the cabin air intake which is just under the plastic trim.