Breezy_Pete

Engine code and year and I'll tell you what wires go where and what fuse to check.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/224376-vcds-owners-map/?tab=comments#comment-2638596

Airbag light will need resetting with VCDS.

Use continuous wiping instead of intermittent whenever possible, for both the elimination of clicking and improving the life expectancy of the relay. As I said upthread, putting some sound insulation between the BCM unit and your ears is probably the only practical solution.

That's not enough of the part number to say; the letter suffixes are all that differs between every variant of shock, standard, heavy duty, sports etc. There's probably a sticker on your old ones if original, Probably -BH as shown on this page (view on computer, not phone to see all info). Part numbers for the other bits are all there too. Ebay seller 'vagbolts' is usually competitive on genuine fasteners and often next day delivery. suspension; shock absorbers - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2006 year] (7zap.com)

I'd certainly suggest taking @MATT0693 up on his offer, but on TRW systems the cap has TRW written on it, and I think with your engine, it'll be visible without any disassembly.

If this were a Mk1 Fabia I'd suggest looking for wiring damage in the immediate vicinity of the starter solenoid. Is a common failure on those. As soon as the insulation gets a crack due to engine movement the weather gets in and turns the copper wire to green dust gradually. Your car seems too young for this to be the explanation, but a visual inspection wouldn't hurt, with a gentle pull-test for good measure.

If the springs on the car now are the originals, or correct genuine replacements, they'll have a sequence of coloured paint marks on them. This is the key to finding the part number. 3 red marks then 2 blue would corrrespond to the part number you mention.

Did you mean accelerator pedal position sensor?

Watch out for the PR-L0L versus PR-L0R in the third column of the table on that page, LHD and RHD respectively.

Measure the thickness of the discs and compare with minimum value. I share earlier posters doubts that this has anything to do with the discs.

Has the brake fluid ever been checked or changed?

I can't remember which flavour of 1.2 yours is Piescoffer, but a friend/neighbour of mine with a BMD-code 54 bhp one in a Polo recently had a cam sensor fault which was just the sensor, so well worth a try, I'd say. Grab one from a scrapyard car though if poss, rather than spending proper money.

@David-SCALA-STY-TS81 I think you will find that the (dual) relay involved is soldered to a circuit board, not a pluggable/unpluggable item, but do let us know if you find a removable one please. If you listen carefully as you switch wipers on, off, or change between normal and high speed you may hear a single click each time, but the continuous wiping modes don't involve the relays doing any switching except at those times. The mechanism driving the wiper arms takes care of the apparent starting and stopping at the ends of each sweep, not the relays.

Seal looks like item 26 here (view on computer, not phone to get full info): differential; final drive; oil cooler; for 4-speed... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2001 year] (7zap.com) Workshop manual for autobox and others here: MK1 Fabia workshop manuals - SKODA Fabia - BRISKODA

That bottom row description confirms that I don't have the right info, sorry. I guess you could go on erWin Skoda, download every Citigo wiring pdf (will cost you a tenner approx for an hour's access) and hope the right info is in one of them, but I can't help you further.

Well I can only speculate that I don't have correct info in front of me for your car, or you are not looking at the right fuse. Probably the former. Do you have two rows of miniblade fuses above a single row of standard blade fuses? 23 being on second row, 6th in from left? Is it a 7.5A one?

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/459059-kodiaq-workshop-manuals/

I doubt it, that appears to be for dipped beam. Wiring goes like this for the left sidelights. Switch > Fuse 23 > grey/black wire to a junction/splice where it splits into two. Both grey/black wires, to front side and rear tail lamps on the left side. Possible explanations that come to mind: Poor or broken contact at one or other end of the fuse holder. Broken wire between output of fuse and junction point where it splits into two wires.

I think you may be able to find torque info on here. You can get workshop manuals for a small fee via erWin Skoda but someone will hopefully be along shortly to offer you a free pathway to the same info.

Guide pin will screw into carrier I think. Probably a female hex inside the capped end to undo/tighten it with male hex key. Item 8 appears to be PN: N 91168901 M12X1,5X65 Try via here: LLLParts not sure they're really allowed to make those catalogues visible to Joe Public, but they seem to be just now, so fill thy boots. N 91168901

I've no idea what it's labelled as in your car, but the fuse info table I'm looking at says " Fuse 23 on fuse holder C -SC23- 7.5A Side light bulb, left -M1- 58 Tail light bulb, left -M4-" So does the left tail light work or not?

Does the tail light on that side work? If not I'd be checking/replacing fuse 23, I think. Should be 7.5A. Having said that I'm not sure my info is sufficiently up-to-date. No harm looking though.

Could try this one: Skoda: Select a car series (7zap.com)

Drastic action considering I've already explained that it shouldn't fail MOT! (Unless the default map with no coolant temp input makes it too sooty for the emissions). I reckon there's a strong chance the wire is bust near the engine, but check the loom for scuff damage wherever possible, and yes, don't be shy of exposing copper at either end of the wiring to help with pinpointing the fault location, or having said that, poking a pin/needle through the insulation to minimise damage while allowing probe connection to said item.