Breezy_Pete

Well in that case...

Both photos appear to show standard batteries. Cars without start/stop need to use standard batteries. Cars with start/stop need to use ones that are EFB or AGM type. Does you car have start/stop?

No.

Yep, it won't pull air through the filter if there's a less restricted path, and the air leaking in will probably be hotter coming from the back of the engine bay.

I've never come across a 4.5mm Allen fitting on anything VAG I don't think, so my money is on a Torx. What is the equivalent on the new ones? Not much likelihood that they'll be the same though.

Of the remaining 6 ways on the connector, 4 go to the charge pressure/intake temperature sensor (MAP sensor), and 2 to the A/C compressor control solenoid valve, as far as I can see from wiring info.

I wonder if @DieselMonte knows where this connector is? He seems like a man who will have explored his engine bay thoroughly.

Where the arrow points

There's generally a hex, XZN or torx-key orifice in the end of the threaded rod, for counterholding. Or sometime flats nearer the balljoint that an open-ended spanner can get on.

Oh, in that case yours will be the suffix C part. But according to this page, the suffix H is a direct replacement, so either will do Buy 02T911023C starter Audi, Seat, Skoda and VW genuine OEM part (oemwolf.com) No idea, but I suspect not, unless it has the same part number 02T911023C or H. If it does, it is the same.

I think yours will be the 02T911023H part, though not sure how that differs to the earlier (suffix C) one fitted up to chassis no. 6Y-2-389395. I expect your chassis number has a 3 or 4 as the tenth digit of the VIN? ASY was never paired with an autobox in Mk1 Fabia, but may have been in other models/brands?

Maybe it's a calculated quantity rather than a measured one? If so, I wouldn't worry about it.

Gasket between air filter and throttle body is item 3 (first one 036129625H) here air filter with connecting parts - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2007 year] (7zap.com) Oil filler tube parts shown as parts 24/25/36 here cylinder head; cylinder head cover; cover - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2007 year] (7zap.com) Oil leaks on these engines can be the result of blockage of the crankcase breather module on the rear of the engine block, item 19 here cylinder block with pistons; oil sump - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2007 year] (7zap.com). If this item doesn't function correctly, the pressure in the crankcase rises above atmosphere, pushing oil out of any imperfect seals. Look at these links on a computer, not a phone. Phones seem to cut some of the most useful info like the part numbers. Try a different scan tool if fault lights are on but you are not finding fault codes.

It's definitely an 8-way connector pair that you're looking for, not 13 or 14.

That rather depends on whether the OP has a diesel or petrol engine. Not abnormal with petrol engines in traffic in warm weather, in my experience.

I'll draw you a picture to explain. Maybe 1 or 2 hours from now.

There are rumours of it being a software problem, but I can't see how it can be if it all used to work OK, now has limited function, but the software presumably hasn't changed. I can try changing capacitor and relay (and main system chip if you want) if you can post the circuit board across and be without it for a few days. Minimal charge, no guarantee.

Perform a compression test and post the results. Brace yourself for a low number on cyl 3 relative to the others. 6-valve or 12-valve variant?

How to undo VW wiring connectors. - YouTube

Yes.

Go on Fuelly.com or Spritmonitor.de and research what crowdsourced info there may be.

At one point in my 'playing' with one of these off the car, I noticed that if you power them up with 12V just on the main thick wires that go to to pins 1 & 2 of the 8-way connector, the unit works, and consumes 20 or 30 mA of current when the motor is not active. After 10 mins this quiescent current drops to near zero and the thing no longer responds to the window switch input. If instead you also put 12V on the pin which fuse 11 feeds, it works and seems to continue to work for as long as that voltage is present (at pin 2 of the 6-way connector, the black/blue wire). Is that one of the voltages you've checked at the module? I think there are indeed other failure modes that seem to be within the module; some have reported success by changing the electrolytic cap, some also change the relay, which is trickier. I've even tried changing out the main 'system' chip on a couple of boards; but so far the only unit that I've ever managed to resurrect was one I looked at years ago, where all I did was clean up the motor commutator and the connector pins. There have been some slightly mysterious changes to the part numbers over the years since first used, so there's a possibility that there are design/component flaws that VW group have quietly fixed on newer units. The reason I describe them as mysterious changes is that they appear in ETKA, and on the boxes of new parts, but aren't printed on the part number labels of the unit itself. They are a suffix of the form SK1/SK4 (on mk1 Fabia), different SK numbers on mk2 Fab, and different again on Roomsters. If you don't know exactly what car a 2nd hand unit came out of, I know of no way to find out which of these suffixes any given unit is. Polos and Transporters have suffixes starting VW instead of SK. I have only guesses about what the suffixes mean, which I won't share now cos this post is too long already!

It's partly down to over-zealous cost cutting I think. The pre-facelift had a different set-up with CAN bus connections to each module from the central CAN system, so there was a sort of supervisory presence, and I'm getting the impression they were more reliable. With the LIN system the door control modules only have each other and their inputs, with no central 'rebootability' if they get themselves in a muddle. The passenger module has most of the same circuitry as the master, but even when its own side's switch is pressed, it sends that info across the car to the drivers side module, which then tells it to open its own window. Seems mad, but I expect there's some logical reason for it. Must admit, I've never had any trouble winding windows up and down with a little handle, there's a weird snobbery about having 'electric everything' though. When you get them going via key in door, do they (both) keep working for the duration of that journey? That could be a 'key' piece of info (apologies...).

I'm currently trying to work out the system by trying to figure out what every component on the circuit board is doing, but it's damn complicated. The 'key turned in lock' signal and the 'door open' microswitch signal from the door lock both go initially to the motor module, those signals are read by a microcontroller on the board, and then there's a bunch of circuitry that imitates the same signals for onward connection to the Central Convenience module and Onboard supply module respectively. I've yet to figure out why they aren't just wired in parallel to all 'interested parties'. Hoping it will become clear when I've got the circuit all drawn out (don't hold your breath). Drivers and passenger side module have a LIN data connection between each other (and no other modules), driver's side is the 'commander' and passenger side a 'responder' to use the politically correct terminology for master/slave, as seen in the datasheet of the responsible chips. Was your secondhand replacement exactly the same part number and also from a mk1 Fabia?

Do you know for sure that the replacement module you fitted didn't have the same problem as your original?