Breezy_Pete

Have you checked fuse 11?

Check cabin fuse 11, if you haven't already.

Not sure about easy, but probably the most conclusive test is to swap it into a car where the windows work correctly and see if they still do, reliably. It would need to be a Mk1 Fabia with the same part number module, so a car from about 2005 onwards. Conversely, if you have access to such another Fabia, test-swap their module into your car and see if everything now works in yours.

When the last repair was done, was the system evacuated and refilled during/after that work (even though it may not have seemed necessary)? Wondering if there's some water or other contamination in the system that's causing the compressor to struggle. If that were removed, the present compressor might be OK with new pulley.

Belt and braces, I should think, in case excessive movement/vibration due to 'loose screw(s)' causes wear to sealing surfaces or something.

Yeah, when @sealover1 said 'every couple of months' my first thought was 'more often would be better'. Alarm horn is generally a separate entity from the horn(s) that you (might) blast other motorists with.

You're welcome, and no harm at all in starting another thread, awareness of this needs to be raised, I feel. I didn't suggest a search as a way of saying "Why did you post this?" but more because I didn't have time to link you to several similar threads by digging out each and every one that I could find. Yours is also excellent in terms of detailing the parts used with photos etc. The very fact that there is such a thing as a 'repair kit' for this problem seems like sufficient evidence that Skoda/VW group are well aware that there is a significant issue. The sheer cost of recalling all of the possibly affected vehicles is probably why not much seems to be happening in that direction.

Do a search on here for the phrase "fuel leak" in quotes like that, and you'll see that there are two or three threads about the same thing on just the first page of results. Alarmingly common. Recall-worthy really. Someone will probably have to die before it happens though.

The bearing carrier can rust them in to the point that only brutality/drilling/chiselling will remove. So if you can leave it in, and it's working, you certainly should.

This often seems to come down to replacement of the driver's side motor module, which tends to be very expensive, even secondhand.

If the removal tool has a flat on it to clear the installed sensor, then it shouldn't be essential.

VW, AUDI, SKODA, SEAT Front Wheel Bearing - YouTube

If there's a strong enough stink in the engine bay (like from a major fuel leak...) it'll get through to the cabin air intake no matter how well sealed. I believe the OP might be referring to when his injector rail came loose due to a broken screw?

On a mk1 it's like this, and I suspect a mk3 is very similar. You can see the recirculation flap in the centre, horizontally, that turns through about 90° when you want recirculated air, rather than outside air. When everything is in place, there's a rubber seal along the front edge of the 'water box' as it's called, which separates engine bay air from the air that's drawn into the cabin through the cover by the wipers. The underside of the bonnet seals against this rubber.

Sump sensor. As the first code says, it's a combined level and temperature sensor. I'm thinking wiring problem is more likely. Check for contamination inside the loom connector, and wiring damage nearby or wherever it looks exposed and vulnerable. If you were to give us a clue about year of car and and engine type (engine code ideally) we might be able to be more specific about wiring.

If you mean the engine ECU, then I don't think you'll be resetting anything in that by disconnecting the battery. It's powered through a relay, so every time you switch off the car and walk away, you effectively remove power from it when the relay de-energises. What are you trying to achieve by such a reset?

Trouble is, if that much oil or oil smoke is heading down the exhaust, lambda sensors and cat converters are going to last much less time than they should, and emissions test failure is likely to become expensive to remedy.

Good news. The old self-destructing brake servo vac hose. Everyone should check theirs.

If the engine's burning that much oil, you'll probably not have this engine for long, so it probably makes little difference.

Not sure the OP's car will have a freewheel alternator pulley. Photo of it end-on would tell.

Consider removing the exhaust manifold heatshield to be able to look for manifold gasket leaks (soot evidence). You'd think that would be a farty noise rather than a 'harsh tapping noise' but you might be surprised. The auto engine is different, something to do with how the starter motor mounts, I think. There are also BKY engines with and without EGR valves, does yours have one?

I think it'll be one of the two here: You'll have to stick 02 in front of the shortened part number as written there, so either 02A 911 024D if the present unit is Bosch made, 02A 911 024G if it's a Valeo one. I suspect based on the starting chassis number quoted for the suffix-G one, that'll be what you have. Is the 10th digit of your VIN a 4 or 5, rather than a 3?

Fella with a very similar fault code who sorted it here: Fabia 2011 1.6tdi 75ps exhaust gas temperature sensor - Diagnostics & VCDS - BRISKODA

Exhaust gas temperature sensor number 3 is what google tells me about that fault code. Not uncommon to find this failure discussed on Briskoda, if memory serves. Not lambda sensor. Do some more research, I suggest.

Yep, normal, as it left factory I believe. There are quite a few threads on here querying this.