Breezy_Pete

I've tried to describe this just in words far too often so it's about time I added some piccies and video. To measure the overall parasitic current correctly on modern cars, you need to use a bit of stealth. There are various reasons for this which I won't go into, but it entails setting things up so that you can have the car fully locked up, whilst still accessing the battery, and the car not getting awoken by any interruptions to the current supply. Start by opening the bonnet. Then push the bonnet latch down (like it would be if you let the bonnet drop again). Use a screwdriver or similar: Now the car won't think the bonnet is open even though it is. Loosen the battery negative terminal so that it can be pulled off vertically very easily, but then leave it fully down/connected: Now ensure all doors are closed, all keys are outside the cabin then lock the car, and leave it alone for at least 30 minutes. Set your meter up ready to make a measurement. Dial set to a range like 200mA DC and the probes in the appropriate holes: Now the bit that requires a little dexterity and care. Remember the important thing here is not to interrupt the current flow, or the many control units will all wake up from their sleep state, and the reading will be useless. Put the red meter probe onto the battery clamp and hold it firmly on there, with a grip that means you can also lift the clamp up with that hand; practice this if it isn't something you can easily do, or employ an assistant to add an extra hand. Put the black meter probe vertically downwards onto the battery negative post, through the battery clamp, so that the clamp can be lifted up around the probe, without touching it, or losing contact between probe and battery post. Lift the battery clamp clear and read the meter. Don't be surprised if the reading jumps about by a few milliamps (mA) this is likely to be the LED on the drivers door blinking to show the alarm is set. Video showing this process below : 20210704_161540.mp4 Note down the numbers, then do up the battery clamp again. Unlock and open the car, pull the bonnet release to re-open the latch, close the bonnet and you're all done. if the reading is significantly higher than a few (2 or 3) tens of mA, try again but leave a longer time between locking the car and taking the reading.

It's completely normal for the starter motor to cause a deep, brief dip in voltage measured across the battery. Nothing unusual about that. But the PAS module thinks there is more of a problem than just normal start-up behaviour, so we really need to know what voltage the PAS module itself is seeing during the early stages of operation. I don't think that is what your red line is showing, I suspect that is voltage at the battery as seen by the Onboard supply control unit, or in the engine control unit; whatever it is that your OBD cable is talking to. How long did you wait when measuring the parasitic current? That 0.17 amps is much too high if that reading is correct. I've just taken some photos and video to illustrate the technique that I described earlier in words, in case that hasn't been understood. I'll make a post about it in a minute, and come back here with a link. The 13.1 volts showing after the alternator gets going is very low, suggesting that the charging current into the battery is very high at that time, because the battery is in poor state of charge, or that the cabling from alternator to battery is losing voltage.

That might be what happens though at idle, without any air entry, depending on blow-by level I suppose. I wonder if that breather valve would fit in/on the dipstick tube, instead of the dipstick? Or into a modified oil filler cap?

How much did you have to pay, if you don't mind me asking? Was it cheaper than the usual fairly extreme pricing for these?

You will be checking and if necessary cleaning the oil pick-up pipe while the sump is off, right? Also worth checking the engine breather system in case that is malfunctioning and creating excessive crankcase pressure; often the root cause of oil leaks. Which oil warning light did you see, yellow for low level or red for low pressure? There should be info about working time, as well as setting time on your Wynns sealant packaging, I'd think?

Probably easier to remove the nozzle than the pipe, it just pulls straight out if it's the same as on mk1s. Don't bother trying to unblock it in-situ with a pin, you'll just push any debris back in for it to come back and re-block it later, if you manage it at all, which I doubt. New nozzle is another option if it is blocked and resists unblocking in the kitchen sink. I remember it being quite tricky to do as there's a right-angle bend inside the nozzle. 3b9955985a | eBay

Yes, you would need to block the port on the intake manifold if you did use the AHW breather module. The electrical connection to the BKY breather module is a heater, to prevent water from crankcase vapours freezing in there, Not a big risk in Nigeria I think. If you leave it as it is, I don't know what will happen. You may get seals failing due to the pressure difference between crankcase and atmosphere. (Crankcase pressure lower than it is designed to be). Maybe it won't be any problem? Another possible work-around is to make a suitable hole for the air entry valve in the AHW cam cover. This would need some care and thought, and probably requires the cam cover to be off the engine. This would be. better, because it would behave more like the BKY system, and this is what the engine ECU will be expecting in terms of interaction between inlet manifold pressures and the breather system.

The valve on the cam cover of the BKY is an air inlet, so you're more likely to have too much vacuum in the crankcase than too much pressure. But that would depend on where the outlet of the breather module is routed to. I guess you've put the intake manifold from the BKY on the AHW? So the breather output goes in on the vacuum side of the throttle? Probably easiest to swap to the AHW breather module and route its output to the air filter side of the throttle body.

20Nm + 180 degrees was the last spec I saw for the inner bolts if they're M8 x 48, on manual gearbox? The last bit of the 180 seems quite brutal.

Then that torque/angle you've quoted is wrong, that's for the nut on the outer end. Both bolts and nut should not be re-used, according to Skoda, but these came with the driveshaft? Did that torque spec come with them too?

Bolts on the inner end or nuts at the outer?

Try again. The link takes you to a page with every part of every 2015 Mk3 Fabia engine, arranged in many links to individual pages (click on a picture of any that have CJZC in the title). Example, this page showing TB and associated parts. intake system - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2015 year] (7zap.com)

I'd be hugely surprised if it isn't.

Dunno. Wondering if the change in classifications is due to the introduction of E10 petrol, and some consequence on the oils that can/can't best cope with it?

For part numbers go here then search by engine code and you can view all the diagrams relevant to this engine: engine Fabia (FAB) [EUROPA 2015 year] (7zap.com) Use a computer rather than phone as mobiles seem to ditch some of the useful columns in the parts tables of the pages.

Adblu is a reducing agent/reductant, so it's not that mad a term to use.

I don't think that engine has external EGR, so the TB shouldn't be exposed to sootiness anywhere near it as far as I can figure. You may get a touch of oil through from the turbo or PCV system I guess, but without soot I wouldn't expect that to cause much grottiness. Can't see fuel quality having any impact on TB or any air metering sensors. I'd think ignition related components would be better suspects for investigation. What do the plugs look like? Some longer journeys thrown into the mix would probably benefit things. Anyway, as for your main question, I would think that if you clean the TB by removing it, and don't actually move the butterfly while doing so, there would be no need to re-adapt it. Even if there was such a need, I think - as you suspect - that the car will take care of it itself given some time just idling.

I guess that'll be engine load, so closely correlated with fast-increasing rpm as per previous graphs (and so also with potential engine reaction movement). I did do a log to compare but it doesn't inform much. Oil level is a bit more dynamic, but it's a very different engine from another decade. Coolant temp in blue, oil temp in orange, oil level in grey. Approx 10 minute trip from cold. I feel sure the A/C fault isn't relevant, that sensor will generally tell you that there's not enough cool juice to try running the system. I guess wait and see if it gets worse/glitchier? The cluster wiring may also move about in response to brisk acceleration, but it seems like a stretch of the imagination that that would be the only times you see the glitching if it were a dodgy solder joint. Apart from catching your eye, I can't see it causing any issues.

You mean the throttle body? I wouldn't expect it to be worth cleaning on a 2015 car, are you sure it's dirty? Are you experiencing any problems with the engine? What engine does your car have?

I've no idea why you've had trouble with those, they work for me on all devices to hand. Anyhoo, you don't need them to work now anyway.

My links or Carlston's? Yes, FS111 is the ATE caliper, so PR=1ZG.

Look at the calipers on the car and compare with images here and here.

505 01 has special additives to solve cam wear problems that became apparent on the PD diesel engines when they were getting 505 00. The same additives are probably good at protecting timing chain components, but I'm not a qualified tribologist, so cannot promise this. @weasley may have suitable knowledge, if he chooses to comment. Interestingly, if you look up the oil you have in the engine now, on erwin skoda's approved oil list it is rated as 505 00 / 505 01, just as Castrol claim, but if you look up the same oil on an older version of the same information, it also shows as 502 00 compliant (502 00 being the petrol engine standard), so I expect the main change is in the way VW group wish to label their oils now. Only one oil is shown as 502 00/ 505 00/ 505 01 now, where there used to be a whole table-full. Saved info:

It's a very quick and easy job with VCDS if you know anyone that has it?

Yeah, most oils are dual-labeled with the relevant diesel and petrol standards. Most 505 00 and 505 01 oils are also marked as 502 00 compliant; the reason this one isn't marked as such may simply be that it is primarily aimed at the diesel owner as it is DPF compatible.