Breezy_Pete

Have you checked fuse number 11?

No, as in the link I posted earlier the first change of number was after that 04/11/07 date:

Yes to all of that I think. Unfortunately for you, the exact part number you have is only going to be found in LHD mk2 Fabias with front and rear electric windows built from the start of mk2 production until 04/11/07, which isn't a big window of time. And buying secondhand, you can't be certain that what you buy does work or will continue to work for long. Have you ruled out with high confidence that the problem isn't wiring between the connector at the A-pillar and the driver's motor module? Mk2s are famous for broken wiring in that rubber cover between body of car and door. It's a poor design.

Here's an example of the 'not quite QR code' that I'd be delighted if anyone knows how to read:

It's a very confusing situation. Mk1 Fabias had two broad groups of part numbers, those starting 6Q.. which communicated with the convenience CAN bus, and later ones starting 6Y that only communicated with each other via LIN bus. Different connectors too. Mk2s have 3 different types at different times in production. 6Y.. ones like yours up until 04/11/07 then two different suffixes on numbers that start 6Q2.. from then until 30/08/2009, and from 31/08/2009 onwards. See relevant section under the second grey banner here: central control unit for convenience system - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2007 year] (7zap.com) The 6Y ones have an 8 way and a 6 way loom connection, the later ones a single 16-way connector, so probably not easily compatible, if at all. The SK3 business is also interesting, according to the description within this ebay advert for a genuine new one (not suitable for you as it's RHD) the software number - which I assume is what they mean by the SK3, isn't shown anywhere in writing on the actual motor. Check before ordering Skoda Fabia front left window motor 6Y1959802SK3 Genuine | eBay 'These motors are supplied with software written to the control units that are vehicle / model specific. This software code IS NOT SHOWN ON THE MOTOR THAT YOU MAY HAVE REMOVED FROM THE CAR. So, even if the number on the body of the motor in your car is the same as the one you can see in our picture, the software code in the black box on the side of the motor is possibly not correct. As such, we will not despatch this motor until we've had a UK registration number or 17 digit VIN number so we can check if the software is compatible with your car because if you attempt to code the motor control unit to a car that it's not designed for, then this will ruin the motor and may possibly damage other electrical systems in the car, and we will not accept it back for credit.' I don't think I quite believe the stuff about ruining the motor or damaging other systems in the car, but I can easily believe that a non-compatible software version might not work properly or at all when connected to other motor modules in the car that don't share the same version. It does make me wonder how you can find out the software version of a secondhand motor. There is what looks like a QR code sticker on a microcontroller chip inside them, but when I've tried to decode it to see what it says it hasn't worked, and closer inspection suggests it's not a standard QR code quite. Knowing exactly what car and what date that car was from may be sufficient I suppose.

Nothing to lose by trying it though.

Just short the inner two wires of the connector. Brake lights will still work but engine ECU will no longer see brake pedal as being pressed.

Is it the 6-valve or 12-valve engine variant? If the it's the 12-valve (70bhp) and the timing chain has jumped, you've probably got valve damage too. Compression test likely to be revealing.

You can get a bluetooth thingy that plugs in to the obd2 port and a phone app "VAG DPF" that will monitor what's going on with the DPF if you want to check that. I don't know any further details but others will.

What year is the car and how many miles has it done? Not even worrying seems like a tempting approach. EGR is about NOx reduction and NOx isn't measured in a UK MOT emissions test. Only if the tester can/does see that emissions equipment has been removed or modified will it fail.

No intermediate connector unfortunately. Direct to connector at ABS module:- pins 1 and 2 at wheel sensor to pins 6 and 18 respectively at module. I'd be tempted to harvest connector plus a wheel-archful of wire from a scrappie car and cut and shut that in, waterproofing connection area well.

Yeah, should be OK as you describe. I think it really should be ignition switched otherwise you might create a constant battery drain. Personally, I would take a fine needle as a 'through insulation stabber-probe' and just keep following the wire back up the loom from the MAF connector until you find a point where it does have 12V, then extend it back from there to the connector with a fresh bit of wire.

Got me intrigued now, I use 'normal' Platinum (5w40) in both Polo and Fabia, but for a soon-due change on the Polo I might try the Platinum Plus. (150-odd k on that engine but runs near-silently).

You could always splice a wire into the black/yellow wire at or near the PAS pump and take it to the MAF. Be careful about waterproofing any such addition though.

It's an ignition switched 12V via cabin fuse 7, which is also an ignition switched 12V to the power steering module, so if the PAS works, the fuse must be OK. Check for wiring damage near or at the connector.

Did you have the ignition switched on when testing for it?

Firstly, when I read your opening post I wrongly interpreted it as saying you usually used 507 00, but were currently trying 505 01. Mostly when people talk about 5w30 on VAG forums they're referring to 507. 5w30 Quantum Platinum Plus, is it that you usually use? Or...? Secondly, the post I linked seemed to be saying the opposite about protection levels to me? Much more ZDDP in 50501 than 50700.

A post about relative levels of ZDDP in 505 01 and 507 00: https://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/25143-What-oil-should-I-use-04-Passat-130-1-9-TDi?p=1011316#post1011316 Don't dismiss the possibility that something else is going on with your engine; until you switch back and witness reversal of the observed changes.

If you phone them they should be able to answer your query. They have better info on their screens than what we see on the web, I'm told.

Not a direct answer but ECPs parts look up by reg is shoddy to put it nicely. Our Fabia has drums at the rear, ECP suggests rear discs as a choice for our reg.

PCV diaphragm or outlet pipe failure is another possible air leak, as is purge valve output hose.

If the servo itself was leaking, the pipe could be fully functional but air could still be leaking through it. Try blocking the manifold connection as suggested?

The second code just means your A/C is too low on refrigerant. No relevance.

Third row of item 2 here, front silencer; rear silencer - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2010 year] (7zap.com) 1Z0253609AH

Here you go, it was a circlip that let the gudgeon pin slide about, as Nige found out later. There are bits of me in the first photo of this post : My unusual Piston failure. Diagnosis would be helpful to stop reoccurrence. | Club GTI