Breezy_Pete

I think I've counted a total of 15 different possible part numbers for the rear springs on a 2009 Fabia. 7 here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2009-608/5/511-511000/ 4 here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2009-608/5/511-511010/ and 4 more here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2009-608/5/511-511020/

Are you sure a piece hasn't broken off the top or bottom? Compare the way the two ends point relative to each other on good side and 'broken' side. If it's an original spring, there will be some painted dots on it, the colour sequence is the giveaway to identifying the spring part number. All variants will probably fit, but you really want one that matches t'other side, unless you plan to do both.

Is there any problem, or just that code? Edit: the HVAC module is a circuit board right behind the temperature/vent direction dials and switches. Edit2: I'm reasonably sure that this module in my Polo reliably gives this fault code, but has no discernible misbehaviour.

Wouldn't be a surprise if the remap has increased NOx production considerably. Find out more specific fault code info and consult remapper?

Good point. Any chance the car is still on its original factory-fitted battery? (Having a VW/Skoda part number on the top surface is often a clue to this, if you aren't the first owner and don't know.)

No problem Dave, and welcome to Briskoda, by the way. Your Fabia is fairly chock-a-block with control units and it's not really the case that the engine ECU is the main brain, just the main engine control. The interior light, door locking and even oil level monitoring are not within its scope of operation. Oil level (and temperature) data are processed by the instrument cluster itself, which is a control unit in its own right. If you're handy with a soldering iron, reflowing the solder joints of all the connector pins from the two connectors on the instrument cluster circuit board can solve a number of problems, especially where the misbehaviour is intermittent/inconsistent. Here's an image showing the various 'brains' around your car. Clockwise from the top: ABS, Instruments, Central Convenience, Engine, Power Steering, Airbags and HVAC (heating +A/C). In the middle, is the unit that arguably is in overall charge, referred to by a confusing array of different names, Onboard supply Control unit, Vehicle Voltage Control Unit, Body Control Module etc. It is the hub of all communication and control activity, co-ordinating everything else. It is located above the accelerator pedal on RHD cars. What has been used to try to read engine fault codes? To the best of my knowledge, if the warning light has been on, there will be codes stored, they just may not be readable by every device capable of connecting to the OBDII socket. Try to find a local member or garage with VCDS, an aftermarket system that talks 'properly' to the VW-group systems; that should be able to find any and every stored fault code, in any of the above modules/ECUs. If the door-related faults are happening every time, I'd say it might be a broken wire or two in the bellows, but if they are more unpredictable and sometimes work as expected, more likely the door-open microswitch on the lock module (or its wire solder joints onto the circuit board inside).

Nope. Cornwall Council did though. Found it didn't work in any noticeable way. https://www.cornwall.gov.uk/media/35430057/cc-electrolyser-trial-summary-report-oct-2018.pdf " The results of the tests were generally inconclusive. Neither electrolyser provided any consistent results for emission reductions or fuel savings, and in some cases these increased."

Stunning. Love the Whirlpool one

I have no idea which Electronic Control Unit you're referring to, but it (whichever) would be absolutely the last place I would look for a solution. They tend to be far more reliable than the things with moving parts like microswitches and wiring looms between body and doors. For 1, check cabin fuses first, a permanent 12V feed may not be getting to where it should if a fuse has blown. Interior light oddities and relocking are both consistent with the door-open microswitch either not working, or its status not being conveyed to the relevant control unit because of broken wiring. Mk2 Fabias are infamous for the wiring near the A-pillar snapping within the door bellows. It's a poor design, low quality wire, or both. Investigate this area first.

@TMB has experience of this scenario. I believe his leak was into at least one of the bellows as mentioned, but with a 'just refill and assume it's only a very slow leak' policy I believe his is still going strong some time later, with no other corrective action than to empty the bellows and re-attach (as far as I recall).

When I look up outer CV joints for 2009 Roomster with BLS engine, there are two pages both showing the same part numbers (for item 24, outer CV) as far as I can see https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/roomster/ro/2009-481/4/407-407027/#24 https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/roomster/ro/2009-481/4/407-407025/#24 Both have the part number 6Q0 498 099 E, and the same with an X on the end which just means an exchange part (some money back when you return the old one).

Surely they would have to issue amended policies with exclusions if they wanted to do this?

Lots of maybe this, maybe that.

I've heard no such publicity?

Yeah, sorry. I thought there'd be more detail; guess there isn't much to it.

Looks like pdf page 83 is the start of the relevant bits.

Go here, click Download this file, select 0A8 gearbox, download that and there's probably some relevant info in there that may help

Thanks for the chuckle.

Looking at this page (and ebay pics of the sump) it's not as bad, and may be doable without too much grief with exhaust in. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2009-608/1/103-103007/#21 A few of the sump screws towards the gearbox end of the engine will be harder to get straight-line access to, but with care that shouldn't matter too much. The thing to check first, if it's never been visited before, is the oil separator module on the back of the block, item 19. If that's blocked up it will tend to increase the pressure within the crankcase, promoting seal failure. I certainly wouldn't worry about special cleaners, probably just speeds things up for techs in dealerships.

First thing you should probably do is work out why it's leaking, because with modern engines that can be a symptom of the real fault, rather than the fault itself. I'll do some research on the BXW set-up and get back to you a little later. If it's anything like BKY, doing it with exhaust in place would be horrible.

Guessing is rather a bad plan here. If there is a faulty wheel speed sensor causing the light, it might be a rear one rather than a front one. Front ones can be hard to remove due to corrosion in the hole they fit through, so don't replace anything without being certain that item is faulty.

Check spark plugs' condition. Buy a spare coilpack.

Yes, item 28/28A here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2006-453/7/721-721025/ 1K0721741 is a kit containing two o-rings and two 'more complicated' seals. On our 2005 car it was the second of these that was required, see images here https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1k0798741-o-ring-seal-9-25x6-07x1-78-skoda-17391.html If yours just requires the o-ring style seal, that is available separately as the second listed part number for item 28A, much cheaper https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1k0798741-o-ring-seal-9-25x6-07x1-78-de-14891.html I can't completely see how this seal can be at fault, letting air in, but not fluid out, but I guess it's possible that an old, stiff seal could show strange behaviour.

Did you fit a new seal where the pipe connects to the slave cylinder?

No problem