Breezy_Pete

Well the 6Q1 parts are LHD, and as such the cable isn't likely to reach. There may also be an issue with handedness of fitment and function. The correct part number is indeed 6Q2423291A(X). The only difference between with and without the X is that presence of X indicates an exchange part, where a deposit is taken and refunded when the old part is returned. The suffix A part was dropped way back in late 2006, the -AX in 2021. Secondhand from scrappies or cars being broken on ebay is only hope really. May be worth trying a 6Q1 with a DIY cable extension, if it appears to be possible to fit it in the rack, by careful comparison of images of 6Q1 and 6Q2 versions, not sure. I can offer help with cable extension work if you/he fancies gambling, and want help. Not sure if it's anything slightly fancy like a screened cable or just a three core 'vanilla' thing.

That's generally the case. For our Fabia it gives two different sizes for the front discs, and just one size of disc for the back. The car has drum brakes at the back.

Or diesel 1.2? Or 1.2 TSI? So many 1.2s. 😆

New post-cat sensor was delivered yesterday, and fitted just now. For the first time since purchase, this car is showing no fault codes in the engine ECU. 😁🥳

Need Reg or VIN to be certain of PN.

If you have any trouble finding wiring info, let me know and I can dig it out for you.

Main difference is the connections. The 6Y... has an 8-way and a 6-way connector into the window motor module. 6Q2959802G has a single 16-way connector. You could 'cut and shut' the wiring if you had a loom connector to suit the 802G, with enough wires in it, I think.

Thanks, was thinking along similar lines, but there are much hotter places than here, so it must be more than just that. Nothing much to lose by giving lube a go. New belt is north of £200; most ebay 2nd hand ones are in the £50-100 range and obviously a gamble.

Had this occur yesterday on our Roomster. Super-hot day. Managed to gradually tease it out after it originally wouldn't come more than about 6 or 7 cm. Several workmates stepped up to try, and all managed exactly the same. Aircon on to bring temp down, felt very naked driving with the belt not on, but after about 3 miles it started to gradually sneak out a bit further with each micro-gentle pull. Couldn't see any obvious problem when trim was removed. Seems like a good time to refresh my stock of spray lubricants. Cheers to Alex D for sharing this link with me, and @aubrey for giving a possible cheap fix.

I would think so, yes.

0CQ525010H, superseded by 0CQ525010S. 👍

^ Not a safe suggestion. There's more to it than that. I wrote a warning thread about this with just one counter-example. There are many, many others: If @PrepsDK would like to share the VIN with me, I can look up the suggested part number.

1.2 TSI (CBZB) turbo oil drain pipe; anyone have any advice on removal? Quite surprised to find that it's put up a big struggle on our Roomster. (Posting in Fabia2 cos it's likely more folk will own and have tinkered with this on Fabias). Removed the single screw from the clamp plate on the block end of it, and both ends wiggle about, but neither wants to pull free. Have tried quite hard, although not with the best leverage with car on axle stands not far off the ground. I guess the o-rings have aged and baked hard? Worried about busting the pipe and rendering the car undriveable by trying too hard, so have ordered a spare, but just wondering if this is a common experience with turbo oil drains generally, or on this particular set-up? I'm only wanting to check that it isn't blocked. 😁

Yes, knuckles would need to be changed. On the 256mm set-up the carriers are part of the casting.

It was probably the yellow oil level warning light that came on not the red oil pressure warning light. @JustMarcel may be able to confirm, if his wife noticed the colour.

Front brake PR code is never on the sticker. Message me with VIN if you'd like me to look it up for you.

Yes. Pre-facelift door looms will have a CAN pair to window motor, and three connectors to the motor, facelift has single wire LIN comms to window motor and only two connectors at motor.

Reg or VIN and I can look up for you. I'd be surprised if a faulty pedal didn't generate fault codes though. There are dual opposite-direction potentiometers in there, just as there are within the throttle body. All monitored for discrepancies I believe.

Hi and thanks for posting. I'll send you a message very soon, with contact details and information. 👍

There's nothing particularly challenging about the replacement. I think it probably needs doing quite regularly on mk1 Fabias, since the very same thread that you appear to have had trouble with during reassembly is often damaged or destroyed during disassembly. The bolt tends to seize into the alloy thread because of oxidation corrosion of the alloy. Don't know why Haynes omits it. I would have thought it would be in there somewhere. Tech1e's uploaded workshop manuals should cover it. The Chassis pdf I expect here: Skoda say that the two bolts that go into the chassis should be renewed, as well as the horizontal one you're having trouble with.

Sensor 2 still playing up even with a new loom connector and carefully cleaned sensor connector. That sensor has been on there for a couple of months though, so oil may have got too far up it. Cheapish aftermarket replacement due midweek. Just found this on YT: How Oil Destroys Lambda Sensors & How to Fix It

Known as console. Left (UK nearside)or right? Item 2 here: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts. Those suffix D parts have been superseded by suffix J, not sure why LLL isn't showing that, either OK though. Avoid any aftermarket versions that might have the early/original style rear bush fitted, with single rubber webs top and bottom, they're junk. Be careful when fitting, the holes that the vertical bolts go up through into the chassis have a 5mm clearance, designed to allow for a little alignment setting during factory assembly. You should try to ensure the car isn't subtly twisted during fitment (such as by just jacking up one front corner), as this might cause things to end up in a different spot and alignment compromised.

Have you tried that recently? I seem to remember reading that you can't do that any more. Edit: I was referring above specifically to the "car data", the list of all PR codes for a given VIN. Not sure now that's what you were meaning? I guess you may have meant repair data such as covered in a Haynes manual or similar instead? That would be available on erWin.

That all looks nice and dry to me.

Generally oil at the bottom started at the top and made its way down. Two places it can certainly leak from are the junction of the boost pipe and throttle body, and from behind the alloy casting/bracket that holds the oil filter, oil cooler and alternator. The former will show itself by there being little puddles of oil in some recesses of the inlet manifold, just to the left of where this plastic pipe attaches to the top of the TB. From there it will make its way down the back of the engine. The latter will tend to send oil down the front left side of the engine, behind alternator, onto air conditioning compressor and below/behind there on block and sump. Leakiness tends to be associated with higher than designed crankcase pressure, so try the following test: With engine warm and idling, loosen the oil filler cap by turning 90°. Does it try to escape upwards, dance around, or get pulled down slightly?