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Breezy_Pete

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Everything posted by Breezy_Pete

  1. I did give this a go, and it did seem to solve the problem. Weirdly, pretty much simultaneously, the latch that receives and detects the belt buckle bit started not detecting occasionally, causing warning lights and bonging noises. A squirt of air from one of those airduster aerosols seemed to sort that, presumably displacing some debris that was interfering with microswitch operation. Cheers again @aubrey . 🙂
  2. Not sure; VCDS would be handy if you can find someone nearby with it.
  3. The 5 amp one in the engine bay also goes to the glow plug control unit, so you'd probably have seen a warning light if that had blown, the cabin one appears to be just for the fuel pump though. When you say the relays work, you mean you can hear them click? That doesn't say anything about the condition of the current-carrying (or not!) contacts.
  4. That relay holder is rather inexactly described as being "Additional relay holder below dash panel".
  5. OK, so not too much to check. Fuel pump relay is in position D4.1 of this relay holder: Circuit looks like this, with two fuses to check in different locations. Apologies for the clunky edit on #27! G6 is the fuel pump itself, 12V in on the blue/red wire, earth on the brown.
  6. Good info, that suggests electrical fault then, clearly. Please supply VIN or reg so I can look at most appropriate wiring info for you.
  7. Did you try measuring for volts on pump connector when turning key to ignition on or cranking position? Could be just that the pump motor brushes have worn so much that there isn't enough contact to start the motor when there's load on the shaft?
  8. It is quite easy to remove that valve, but I don't think access is going to improve much. The end of the camshaft is not far behind there.
  9. I do not think it will make any noticeable difference.
  10. @Warrior193 people who mess around with their exterior lighting tend not to care much about suchlike.
  11. No such arrangement on a petrol engine.
  12. Just looked at ours, and you'll be able to get a pretty reasonable measurement through the spokes of the alloys. Looks to be about 10mm or so. This is a pic of my knob-up on that front. Wrong size shiny new disc versus original. Shiny ones had to go back for a refund. Don't assume yours are the same though, measure.
  13. The factory-fitted discs for this reg are 288mm diameter x 25mm thickness. Front brake PR code is 1LN. Genuine front disc part number is 1J0 615 301R, which has been superseded by 6R0 615 301D. Beware of buying any aftermarket discs that do not mention equivalence to these numbers. Not a bad idea to take a wheel off and measure the depth from front face of disc to wheel mounting face, then comparing with sellers' dimensioned drawings too.
  14. Also, be careful when buying 288mm discs, they don't all have the same depth of the bell part, as I found out too late after ordering carelessly.
  15. Hi Joe, 288mm discs cannot be fitted to a car that originally had 256mm, without changing lots of other stuff. Where have you found a PR code for your front brakes? That's not usually found on the build sticker. What is the reg? I can look up for you.
  16. Front wheel slightly binding is maybe worth addressing, the rest can probably be ignored.
  17. That needs answering. Not one of those "health check"/upselling check sheets done oh-so-helpfully as part of a simple oil change service, by any chance?
  18. Front shocks tend to have part numbers with 413 031 XX as the last 8 characters, and often have more than one sticker on them. Look for another with the suggested partial part number. (XX being unknown to me, and usually the sole difference in part number amongst the whole family of variants). Given reg or VIN I could look up your specific PN.
  19. Not usually productive, because the nozzle tends to have a 90 degree bend near the outlet, and you'd also be pushing any debris back in, not out.
  20. Can be just the nozzle blocked, and they generally pull out fairly easily to test flow without.
  21. Ah, I see. Working rear wiper >= + 100bhp.
  22. The bit just outside the fuel cap, with a water drain hole? It would be remarkable if cleaning that area and unblocking that drain helped with engine performance. What was the car in for?

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