Breezy_Pete

Only thing to bear in mind with companies like onlinecarparts.co.uk/autodoc.co.uk/buycarparts.co.uk is that despite the .co.uk web addresses, they're all operating and shipping out of Berlin, Germany. May well all be the same company, pretty sure the first two are, at least. Fine when everything goes well, but less handy if anything is wrongly supplied etc. and needs to be sent back. Delivery times may also reflect the distances involved.

According to info @Tech1e posted once upon a time, these bushes are the same as used on a mk2 Golf (and probably a host of other applications, PN 357 407 182. £15 each genuine according to this site (which I by no means recommend except for price-checking, as they let me down badly recently, and very unapologetically) https://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/vw-audi-seat-skoda/vw-audi-seat-skoda-357407182-rubb-mount/ So when you can buy a whole wishbone for twenty-odd, just not worth the grief at all. BTW, seeking out the cheapest garage for these jobs isn't always he best strategy long-term, cos if they're doing it for next-to-nothing, they'll surely re-use the long bolts that go into the consoles, stitching up the next person who tries to undo them as they'll likely gall up and rip the thread out of the aluminium or just jam up solid. That's why they're single use, nothing to do with stretching, IMO, all about corrosion.

Well worth measuring, I don't believe those numbers at all.

Have you actually measured the current it draws @Another_Felicia? I think it may be a little more than you expect. I have an LCD voltmeter module plumbed into my car, which has the disadvantage of not being visible in the dark (without light pointing at it), but the advantage of drawing only 0.5mA.

Hi. A great starting point would be to tell us which engine type your car has. Age of car and mileage too would be good. What makes you think something needs cleaning?

According to ETKA, it's the first or third 'item 11' depending on whether manual or automatic transmission. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2004-225/9/905-905000/ So NGK BKUR 6 ET-10 for manual gearbox, or NGK PZFR5D-1 for automatics. Economy versions also available.

Yep, poor design.

M7 thread I think, awkwardly. Will look up part number and length shortly.

Clutch slipping? Which engine does your Fabia have, and how many miles on the clock?

Check fuse 24 in the E-box under the hood.

Flywheel part number is on here, if that helps at all? https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2010-608/1/105-105010/ 045 105 269

RHD car? If so it looks to me like the last listed item 1 here https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2005-252/8/837-837000/ 3B2837016T Are you sure it's not just the lock barrel needing refurb? Various youtube vids and kits of bits available.

I don't see any obvious need for a torque wrench for this. What you will need is a bit of the correct style and size for the screw heads. If the ones on your car are the same as what was pictured on the thread you linked, they are XZN/triple-square type, not Torx as someone on there posted.

Joining 'Freedom' for £10/yr opens up unlimited editing and photo posting. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/subscriptions/ To position photos within posts, put your cursor where you want the image, then click on the + symbol on the LHS of the preview of the upload. If you do go down the route of buying new bearing carriers and bearings, make sure whoever fits the bearings is equipped with the appropriate (GEN2) tooling and knows how to use it. If the bearings are not fitted correctly by this method, they'll be damaged during fitment, and you'll be back and forth trying to fix things, with the garage blaming your bearings and all sorts of grief. There still seem to be a lot of garages out there who'll just cheerfully press them in by the drive flange, which either causes immediate problems, or ones that appear later.

I'm rather unfamiliar with the type of fan control that I think your car has, but I did find a couple of snippets of info online last time I tried to understand it. A couple of posts of mine about halfway down this page: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/470840-aircon-puzzle-intermittent-cold-output/ I think subsequent to that thread I did suggest to one owner of a car with this arrangement and a 'fan coming on when ignition switched off' problem that his fault might be the result of water ingress into the connector that goes to the fan control unit on the main fan, and I vaguely remember that something was found, so maybe worth a look in there?

Bearing carrier and matching bearing part numbers here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2016-797/4/407-407000/ (8A, 9) Is it really worth it?

09/18 will mean week 9 2018, so early March, I guess.

The other thing to do is to look at each door opening after rain, checking for water on the horizontal bit of each inner seal. If you find little puddles on any of them, that door is leaking. Here's a picture of the offside rear door of ours with some water showing where I mean.

Monitor your battery voltage for a while (e.g. once a week for a few weeks, looking for any downward trend)) to make sure you haven't just introduced extra parasitic current. This seems to happen sometimes when people change incandescent bulbs to LEDs in interior lighting. For reasons I've not figured out, they sometimes seem to make some circuits not shut down correctly when the car is dormant.

Check that there is 12V on both sides of fuse 23, with it in place.

Hmm, that's the one.

What value in amps was the fuse you changed? Was it 7th from the right in the top row of smaller fuses?

Check the condition of the blanking grommet a little way down from where the wiring goes into the a-pillar, in the door hinge area, They seem to perish and become a very loose fit in the hole. Sealant it to death if you do find it loose. Also check that the rubber boot at top end of wiring bellows is sitting right, tight up against metalwork.

Narrow chisel hammered at 45 degrees downward on left of head. Should loosen fairly easily.

Buy up the cheapest secondhand cluster of same part number you can find. Learn how things come apart on that one and salvage the relevant motor. Then remove dodgy one from your cluster...