Breezy_Pete

Roomster got appropriated by my partner, and I've just sold the Audi to a workmate. So I've ended up in the hand-me-down 20 year old 209k mile Fabia! 😆 Quite a contrast to the Audi in drive and comfort levels, but someone has to drive it into the ground, and it might as well be me. ...At least until I find a nice Polo, approx 2012-15, 1.2 TSI manual or possibly even DSG if I get brave, in this nice blue colour

Not sure about cheap diagnostics, I use VCDS which some people regard as expensive. If you have very good eyesight, and good lighting, (or just cunning use of mobile phone camera) the fuse locations are all numbered.

I guess you mean 34, I can see 33 is there, and your engine ECU would not work well without 33! Fuse 34 looks like it is used on some engine variants, but not yours.

Like within 1 minute, noticeably warm air?

Look carefully into each fuse location, where there are no fuses, and see if there are the metal contacts top and bottom that would actually make electrical contact and physically hold a fuse in place. If one or both metal contacts are missing, no fuse can be fitted there.

It's difficult to say which fuses any particular individual car should or should not have fitted, but in the case of fuse 48 it's easy. From May 2013 > it is described as 'not assigned'.

Very fast appearance of hot air even with cold engine?

Fuse 29, 10A supplies the relay coils of both of these relays, so if it is missing, those error messages can be expected, and no electrical cabin heating.

Check fuse 29 in the cabin fusebox.

I will send you a message tomorrow. 🙂

Hello @rhplus , which country do you live in?

VIN not needed, now that I look into it. They've simplified down to just two options. 5J0 971 120 HG if it has just front electric windows. (£120 + VAT at Skoda) 5J0 971 120 HH if it has front and rear. (£138 + VAT) LLL parts will surely be cheaper for either. Currently offering the former at £93 including VAT, somehow: Skoda Wiring Set For Door 5J0971120HG - LLLParts

You'll have to be fairly prompt in getting that info to me though, off to the gym and then elsewhere shorty.

If you let me know the VIN, I can look up currently recommended loom, and price (RRP) for you.

Visible belts are almost always auxiliary belts, not cambelts.

This will probably help: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts

Sorry, just scrolled up and see that we've discussed this before.

Does the car definitely have a G85 sensor? I forget the identification of the one on the rack, as opposed to column, but that might be all you have.

Thanks Alasdair. Old house was very rural and parking area had big sycamores all around, so these seeds no doubt date back to then. We're a bit more suburban now, sadly. Since getting the (1.2 TSI) Roomster, the little 3-pot Fabia seems very noisy, so just splashed out on the under-bonnet noise insulation sheet. Wonder if it'll make much difference.

Lift/remove the right side rear seat squab and peel back carpet to get to top of in-tank fuel pump. Disconnect the 4-way connector and put multimeter probes into the contacts the thicker two wires go to. Arrange meter so you can see from where you can turn the key to make the engine crank over. See what voltage is shown.

@gilroom not sure of the answer to either of your questions, but do now own a Roomster, so could potentially have a look at ours, but I would think someone on here must have replaced a rear door lock module and know from experience? I can also try to look up via workshop manuals, will do that now.

Forgot the vacuum cleaner, but took along a pal to help with unscrewing the lock ring that holds the pump in (two hammers opposite sides of the ring 'turrets'). Wouldn't have got it off on my own, I think. Also wouldn't have got the fuel hoses off, cos I hadn't brought my glasses and couldn't see how the latch worked. He did. Anyway, having ordered the business part of the pump from GSF, but not yet collected, we went to the car to eyeball the pump, to see how easy it would be to fit just the above 'fuel pump swirl pot' section as opposed to an entire pump assembly (half the price for just the pump). Just before we left, it occurred to me that another thing to check whilst in there would be the connections to the pump motor itself (not the external 4-way loom connector, but internal spade connections. Pic of similar connections stolen from an ebay ad for an aftermarket pump: One was nice and tight, just a plain male/female 1/4" spade, the other was one of the flag type connectors with a latch so it can't come off. It hadn't come off, but it was as loose as a goose, and there was no sign of the usual 'fresh metal scrape' you get when you disconnect a good one; all dull metal. Squeezed each side of the receptacle with some little pliers, reassembled everything. Fixed. 😁

Tentative good news. Chain timing all OK as far as I can tell. Compression good across all three. All plugs look OK, but barely smell of any fuel. Something appears to have nested above the fuel pump... ...but I have volts at the connector when cranking. No sound of whirry fuel pumpingness though when cranking. And tellingly (thanks @bigjohn for reminding me to check basics) no fuel comes out of the schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail when I push the pin in. Fuel lack appears to be the problem. Car is parked about 500 metres from a GSF where they have a choice of pump brands in stock. Might not be game over for the Fabia after all. 😁 Edit. Note to self; take handheld vacuum cleaner with me when I go back to change pump!

20250424_080000.mp4

Will attempt to video it shortly.