Breezy_Pete

It's direct injection, surely, so won't go near any intake valves if it's in the fuel. Won't have an EGR valve either.

Not sure which engine type you have, but I based my comment on the fact that the single high-pressure oil feed that goes from block to head in most engines tends to be alongside or even coaxial with one of the headbolts. This means it is relatively unlikely to communicate with a water channel if the gasket does develop any leakage. Water channel into oil return (causing water into oil, not the converse because of the pressure relation), or across fire ring into cylinder will be much more common gasket failures, by a large margin. Oil coolers, as mac says, are way cheaper and easier to swap; and tend to carry pressurised oil in close proximity to coolant, which may have eroded/corroded the pipework over the years.

Much more likely to be oil cooler.

If you don't need A/C then just leave everything as it is. There's no clutch that engages/disengages, but as you say, a breakaway thing that lets the pulley spin freely if compressor seizes.

I'll start a message conversation with you to see if my access can find your VIN in parts catalogue.

Have a google of those, you'll probably find a few results in this forum amongst other places. Definitely electrical, not to do with thermostat. Coolant pump B seems to be the item involved, but wiring/connections to it may well be the issue rather than the pump itself. I also seem to remember that there can be confusion about identifying the correct pump, as there may be more than one.

Sounds more like a description of an electrical fault. What was the fault code number?

Front of block, halfway up. Item 21 for this reg. Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts Part number shown there has been superseded by 03L 121 111 AN

Big ole split

Top news, apart from the shock.

Now that I'm looking at the right diagram, you were right, I was wrong, G42 is co-located with G31, charge pressure sender, as opposed to G299 and G71 doing manifold temperature and pressure respectively. No idea whether cleaning will help, but I have my doubts. No harm in trying, though I guess. I would focus on the outer, temperature sender, the black bead, rather than getting cleaner deeper into the pressure sensing bit.

I think it may be the one in the intake manifold instead. Was just looking at Fabia 2 wiring info, without remembering this is a Rapid, but will check again now.

Cabin fuse 2, a 5 Amp one, I think. Engine code and build date would help confirm (I can find those via reg or VIN).

They tend to just dangle down behind the plastic arch liner. Ought to be pretty easy to remove and unblock. I'd be having a go in situ with a bit of earth wire stripped out from some thickish twin and earth house wiring cable, or a straightened out wire coat hanger.

For that VIN the crankshaft speed sensor is 03D906433 (dropped in Aug '23), superseded by 03D906433A.

Not sure if you mean both boots on that driveshaft or both outer boots? If the latter, offside one was one of the first jobs when it arrived here. Plan is to swap in a whole nearside driveshaft. Ordered one from ASM from a Roomy with only 55k on the clock for a very good price. May have to collect it on Monday to expedite things.

The gift that keeps on giving... Was under it this afternoon changing the oil, not expecting to see this: Nearside outer CV boot decided to let go, thoroughly.

Crank sensor is at rear of block, awkward to access: For part number, best to check using VIN, message me with it if you prefer not to post it.

There's not really any such thing. A photo of the fusebox by the original owner would be handy. Is there a specific question you're researching the answer to? Owners manual from the correct year is a starting point, but that tends to be generic, trying to cover all possible fitments and engines. The wiring diagrams (available via erWin Skoda for a small fee) can provide VIN-specific info (viewable and printable only) or the overall complete wiring diagrams covering all variants (in pdf form), out of which you can pick the pertinent info for any particular query. I tend to download and look at the pdf versions, so I'm not sure if the VIN-specific route actually gives you a full fuse layout for your given VIN, others may well know.

Not all Yeti will have the same fuse patterns as one another, and not necessarily the same fuse values in any given position. Variations of fitted equipment and engine/gearbox etc. as well as changes over time mean that a single snapshot of one vehicle's fuses can't cover everyone's Yeti 100% accurately.

Thermostat ever been changed?

Could be that the radiator fan has lost its first (low) speed function. Or both speeds. Does the car have A/C, and if so does it work?

I believe the oil filters on the 1.2 TSI EA111 retain their fullness when engine isn't running. There's a valve that opens as you unscrew them to replace, releasing the oil inside into the housing; but before that they are full. Wouldn't be a sensible design if they had to be re-filled at each start-up, especially as the tensioner is hydraulic.

Yep, though most people have a rather false picture of how much oil is elsewhere other than the sump when the engine is running. Very little, since all the passages that it goes through on the way up the engine are very narrow, and the drains from the top of the engine very large. Compare level readings at different engine temperatures to see the amount of variability in dipstick reading.

Did you check the level before the 200 mile trip? If not, how long before that trip did you last check it? Oil loss may be quite gradual if it was a long time since checked.