Breezy_Pete

Designations (generic)

"I've measured the voltage across every fuse in the engine bay" Does that include the strip fuses on front side? Only thing that's truly unfused, in my experience, is the starter motor. May not get many mV across any of these, being fair-sized chunks of metal, but it sounds like you have the kit needed.

Have you checked fuse 11 for the mirror adjustment? Does mirror heating work or not? Switch on with engine running and then feel each mirror after 30 seconds or so, with a finger. Does the passenger window work from its own switch? If you'd like me to look at circuits, I'd need to know whether the car was built before or after May 2013; reg or VIN would get me to that information.

How did you manage this? I thought diesel pump nozzles were bigger diameter and don't fit?

Got the old one off, with predicted struggle. Secondary water pump shifted off it and tied up out of the way, then driveshaft off and out of the way. Wouldn't really be do-able without driveshaft shifting, and would be another step easier with front exhaust/cat section off but that's a mission of its own, so haven't done that. Pretty grubby, as expected.

Some pics of the (new) oil separator and the detachable 'business section'. Sealant arrived today, and car isn't needed tomorrow, so I must have a go starting reasonably early in the morning. 🤞 If anyone reading has changed one of these on a CBZA/CBZB engine, and has any tips, I'd be happy to hear them.

Does the service book mention the oil filter also being changed then? If not, do it now. Even if it was changed then, do it now. There are a couple of o-rings on the oil filter assembly that it may be worth changing, not just the routine one that comes with a new filter cartridge. Items 16 and 17 here: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts Sump drop is not that easy on these, front exhaust section would have to come off first, then it's a sealant gasket too, so a bit of a palaver to refit.

1.2 3-cylinder or 1.2 TSI? How many miles has it done? When was oil and oil filter last replaced?

Quick answer - dry.

Main oil leak seems to be fixed since the alternator/oil filter bracket gasket was done, but there's still some coming out the back of the engine. I think this may be the oil separator, or something higher up. Whole engine is pretty oily. ☹️ When I unscrew the oil filler cap with engine idling, it does a bit of a dance, which I think indicates that the PCV system isn't working at all brilliantly. WhatsApp Video 2025-05-26 at 20.54.02_fd372f1c.mp4 Researching this a bit via an Audi SSP on the CBZA/CBZB gave this page as the basic description of the system: Having bought a genuine replacement oil separator, those 'Polyswirl' tubes are pretty tiny, and look to be easily blocked completely, leading to worse separation and possibly higher pressure upstream of them. You can't see through them at all, ID is maybe 3 or 4mm each; I think there's probably a spiral bit of plastic inside each, along their length, like a bit of fusilli pasta. Plan is to replace this separator soonish. Looks like a bit of a pain, due to position on rear of block, just above O/S driveshaft which will have to be moved aside, if not completely removed. It also has a sealant gasket arrangement, which I'm not that fond of dealing with. Sealant on order due soon.

Forgot about one electrical fix that happened a few weeks back. Cabin fan resistor replacement. Wasn't working on speed 1, unacceptable. Researched it on here and found a thread that covered it, although at one point (in a vid?) it's claimed that the three M6 fasteners that hold the airbag in have Tx27 heads. That wasn't helpful, cos they're Tx30, and it makes it even easier to drop one if the tool is a loose fit... Lost one deep in the dash, just found something similar to replace it with. Hope the stray one doesn't cause any issues wherever it ended up.

To get from your full VIN to one of those abbreviated forms, discard the first 6 characters and replace the character after 5J with a dash '-'. For your VIN that gives 5J-93165977. That falls into the category of 'from 5J-83172974'; since 9>8. The other strings mentioned, with A, B and K in them are from other factories than where your was built. Wouldn't worry about any other forms of identification. Perhaps the two lengths refer to arms supplied with and without ballpoint prefitted?

@mac11irl I'd imagine they're similar, but probably not identical.

Inspect the top and bottom of the spring carefully. Loud bang more likely was a piece of that breaking off. Look for a jagged end.

Clout = hit enthusiastically.

Probably worth clouting the door near lock whilst trying, for added chances of something moving. 🤞

No harm in trying higher voltage, especially if you disconnect those wires from anything but the lock motor. Nothing to lose.

If you meant exactly 12V or thereabouts, maybe worth trying 15 or 16?

Follow it to see what it goes to at the other end? One thing's for sure, it's a source of filtered fresh air, not vacuum, for something, if coming from the airbox. Leave it disconnected but open.

Just do it by feel then. Doubt it matters much.

Borrow another torque wrench to compare.

The three studs coming down off the manicat? M10 I think, but M8 will probably do.

You may have to remove the connector to look between it and the board surface. Easier to just try another motor module if you can find one at a reasonable price.

I believe you that the LIN is working that far, but there is the adaptor part which that connector plugs onto, which itself then plugs onto the circuitboard-mounted connector, all of which may have corrosion or loose connections. Here's one where I have repaired track breaks under the connector (the black stuff visible each side is lacquer covering board surface repairs). Usually it is the door open signal that seems to be worst affected by corrosion under that connector body, but other points of failure can easily occur if sufficient moisture accumulates there. If you decide to remove the board for examination, be careful to 'help' it out by pushing the left edge of that connector with a small screwdriver or similar, to help the board come with the motor housing after undoing the 4 Torx Tx20 screws. Otherwise you may easily damage the motor brushes.

LIN communication further into the passenger side module must be damaged somehow. Condensation can get under the circuitboard-mounted male connector and corrode tracks. Try a different passenger side motor.