Breezy_Pete

Parts list page for 2010 Fabia with rear drums: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/608/6/609/609020 That's the only option there, PR 1KM, for drums at rear. Front brakes might be one of two set-ups on your car, I think. One type has 239mm discs, the other 256mm. PR code for that wouldn't be on the sticker, typically.

Hi Ade, messaging you now.

CV came away as planned, and boot replacement was the usual messy-as job. Didn't do a thorough job and clean out all the old grease, probably should have. Boot sorted. Brake stuff had come apart easily enough again, and now-correct disc was straightforward to fit. Then came the first significant snag. When re-torquing the carrier screws, the top one suddenly stripped. Bugger! erWin info didn't specify replacement (just 124Nm torque I think), so I hadn't. May have helped me if I had, not sure. Took the screw back out in the vain hope that it was just that that had stripped, rather than the thread in the wheel bearing housing. It looked odd. Turned out there was a helicoil (I guess?) filling in the thread at the business end, came off the screw in one piece: So a previous repair had pulled out; yay! 😧 Wandered off to sulk for a bit. I had only just been telling myself how nice it was to be working on a car where all the fasteners came undone OK, rather than battles with seized and rusted stuff more typical of what I'm used to. Simple choice faced me. another thread repair attempt or replace wheel bearing housing (far more time and work). So I went for the quick and dirty option and got this set on order from ebay: M12 x 1.5mm BRAKE CALIPER CARRIER BOLT THREAD REPAIR KIT Inserts Tap Drill Bit | eBay Idea is that a threaded top-hat type thing is fitted into the hole where the thread was, from the side opposite the screw. Didn't think about this quite long enough, in the context. It comes with a stepped drill that centralises the new sized hole in the existing one, with a hardened spacer/guide bar too that forces it to be the right distance from the other one. See images in listing. Took a lot of drilling, hard work for some time. Went to fit the insert, which should be a tight enough fit to require a bit of pulling in, with pin and bearinged washer arrangement supplied. It was loose as anything. 🤔 What I'd not taken into account was that the previous repair had already created a significantly oversize hole where the helicoil had been put in, so the stepped drill hadn't done an adequate job of centralising the full size hole, which had wandered about and drilled oversize. Dumb mistake in hindsight, though not sure I could have made it work better, with this kit. Anyway, thought I'd try torquing up the carrier screws anyway, to see what happened, and both took full torque without anything feeling bad. Wasn't happy about it, and knew I'd be revisiting at some point before long.

Front right needed outer CV boot replacement as well as brake stuff, but happily I: a) had bought a tool some time back for in-situ removing of outer CV from driveshaft, and, b) remembered that I had, and, c) found it in my garage without undue time spent Only in the £15 territory, from memory. [More coming soon, just got to pop out]

Rear left got a new (correct) disc and pad set, MDK0037 I think? Didn't do the bumpstop or spring top rubber yet, still umming and ahhing about whether to change shock while I was at it. Rear right got new disc and pads, new shock and bumpstop. No dramas. Wasn't sure what to expect with the caliper, going by the evidence of the hose clamping imprint, but it wound back quite easily, possibly a replacement? Doesn't look any newer than t'other side though. Odd.

Ordered up Mintex brake boxes (discs and pads), a genuine NOS rear shock, rear bumpstops, a CV boot, nuts and bolts. Started work on front left (going anticlockwise this time thinking I'd leave the front right with the CV action 'til last). Everything came apart easily for the disc and pad change, but as noted in another thread, first snag came with the fact that despite ebay seller checking with reg number, the discs in the front brake box were wrong. Silly me; thought all the VAG 288mm discs were probably the same, so didn't personally check everything well enough at time of order or delivery. Seller was decent about it and gave a full return/refund including pre-paid Evri label, having established that they didn't have a correct set for the car. I think having looked on the Mintex site that there isn't actually a front pads + discs set to suit this application; could be wrong. Luckily, the GSF near my workplace had sets of Brembo discs and pads that I was happy enough with, for not much more than the refund amount, in stock the next day. Went up together nicely once the 'bell' of the disc was the right depth.

Right front Disc in similar poor condition. CV grease around, lots of mud around Lots of engine oil around on undertray

Left front Not much to note or of concern, except disc looking very old and disintegratey. Probably not actually that close to failure, but not nice looking.

Left rear. Bump stop entirely broken. Shock and spring look OK, top rubber mount of spring looks a bit odd, some rubber hanging off the edge. Is there a right and a wrong orientation for the top 'tail' of the spring to be? Disc and pads similar to first side. Didn't take any pics as they'd have been largely duplicates. Rear beam has a scab or two that might benefit from treating. Rear exhaust box looking very original and scabby, continuous pipe including mid silencer, so confirming originality. No obvious leaks currently.

Time for some progress reporting (overdue, sorry). Before I plucked up the courage to sort the oil leak I went round all four corners checking suspension, brakes etc. Started on right rear for no particular reason. Disc - original-looking, nasty. Possibly would clean up OK, rear/inner side may be worse. Pads - well worn but legal Flexible brake hose has a 'pinch mark' where a clamp had been used a bit unsympathetically, but doesn't look like more than cosmetic damage. (Can just be seen in this shot of the disc below, just to the right of the top of the loop). Handbrake having uneven effect between sides. Bump stop, hanging on by a thread! Shock covered in oil covered in dirt. Spring looks in good shape.

Messaging you now @mint1e 👍

Apparently not. see items 2 and 3 here: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts Suffix E parts replaced by suffix P ( both are part numbers for whole rod with both ends) but no distinction between any engine types.

Yes, that should be fine. Access is pretty awful but just use your third and fourth hands!

Hi Dave, thanks for posting. Yes, that 6Y2959801 part number is what you need. The SK1/SK4 is only ever visible in parts catalogue and on the box label of a brand new motor. The key requirement for you is that the motor you buy should be from RHD mk1 Fabia. This will be ensured by matching both the first and last line of the main PN label. So 6Y2959801 first, and SK240PDRS last. The actual software version (SK1 or 4) is not critical (and not easily determined AFAIK).

Roomster got appropriated by my partner, and I've just sold the Audi to a workmate. So I've ended up in the hand-me-down 20 year old 209k mile Fabia! 😆 Quite a contrast to the Audi in drive and comfort levels, but someone has to drive it into the ground, and it might as well be me. ...At least until I find a nice Polo, approx 2012-15, 1.2 TSI manual or possibly even DSG if I get brave, in this nice blue colour

Not sure about cheap diagnostics, I use VCDS which some people regard as expensive. If you have very good eyesight, and good lighting, (or just cunning use of mobile phone camera) the fuse locations are all numbered.

I guess you mean 34, I can see 33 is there, and your engine ECU would not work well without 33! Fuse 34 looks like it is used on some engine variants, but not yours.

Like within 1 minute, noticeably warm air?

Look carefully into each fuse location, where there are no fuses, and see if there are the metal contacts top and bottom that would actually make electrical contact and physically hold a fuse in place. If one or both metal contacts are missing, no fuse can be fitted there.

It's difficult to say which fuses any particular individual car should or should not have fitted, but in the case of fuse 48 it's easy. From May 2013 > it is described as 'not assigned'.

Very fast appearance of hot air even with cold engine?

Fuse 29, 10A supplies the relay coils of both of these relays, so if it is missing, those error messages can be expected, and no electrical cabin heating.

Check fuse 29 in the cabin fusebox.

I will send you a message tomorrow. 🙂

Hello @rhplus , which country do you live in?