Breezy_Pete

@TinyTim What is the reg number, or VIN? (Private Message me if you don't wish to publish such info for all to see). I can look up with VIN, and I can find VIN with reg number, but I assume you're pretty sure the 03F903023E is factory original?

eBayARE3010 AS-PL Alternator Regulator | eBayHITACHI 2500731. HITACHI 130731. REFERENCE OEM NO VALEO YR1616VFP1. VALEO YM2660VP2F. VALEO YM16. VALEO YM1687VFP1. VALEO YM1672VFP1.^ Cheapest reg I've found thus far.

You bought the wrong alternator, unfortunately. Who told you it was correct? Please don't say ECPs look-up by reg number... Please confirm explicitly that your car does not have start/stop. If so, the 03F 903 023E original alternator does not have a LIN connection. It has the blue exciter wire and the other DFM wire. I'll take my old 03F 903 023E to work with me this morning and see how readily the brushpack can be replaced. Found one for about half the price you mentioned, I think. See this page for independent verification that Valeo TG11C086 is a conventional alt, with L and DFM connections, not LIN, because you don't seem to trust what I am saying very much: A3508S | Alternators Just researching brushpacks now. Edit: if you click on the blue font TG211C086 part number on that page, it takes you to a page with all the parts including Valeo and their aftermarket replacement regs. Top website. A few options here, presumably the aftermarket replacement: Valeo Are3010 for sale | eBay This one had every right to be struggling, major wear to sliprings and brush protrusion near zero. Inner brush appeared to be just still making contact. Not sure if you've tried, but the back cover prises off relatively easily, I just warmed up the plastic around the two M5 stud a bit first. Then there are two M5 screws (8mm head) and one double stud with 7mm hex middle to remove regulator/brushpack.

Think it'll be this. Not sure which view of the connector that is, or even whether it's the module connector or the loom plug, but I expect you can work it out from what isn't and isn't fitted, wire-wise.

First time starting a project thread, bear with me... Heard about this Roomster not too far from me that might be heading for a scrapyard, and decided to try to acquire it. That went well and it came to my place this last weekend. Early 2012, 1.2 TSI, 5sp manual, 158k miles on the clock. This is it, just after being washed. Paintwork is far from pristine, but that's not something I care much about. I'd looked up the spec via the reg plate before seeing pics of the car, so there were one or two nice surprises when I first saw pics, then the car in real life. Factory build sheet suggested no roof rails, nor trailer hitch. Both were in fact fitted, presumably by supplying dealer since this was bought new by the previous owner. Trailer hitch is the detachable type, with 13 pin electrics connector and adaptor for 7-pin electrics. Super handy! Had to swap out the alternator to get it charging and driveable, battery was also factory original and not well at all following loss of charging. OSF tyre had nasty inner shoulder wear, without anything similar being apparent on the other side, so that needs some investigation promptly. Partner told me the high level brakelight is inop. Nearside mirror adjustment isn't happening. May well be a split outer CV boot on OS too, but hard to be sure as the whole engine is rather oily externally, and everything needs a good clean-up to see where any fluids are escaping from. Everything else seems to work, though the handbrake only slightly! Lots more to say, but for now: New battery fitted last night after the external clean. Interior needs a lot of cleaning up; hoping a local youth may be enticed into helping with that, possibly. Engine sounds rather nice and quiet after two seconds of mild rattle from cold-start. Seems to go just fine, but economy not great on journey home. Quite excited to bring it back to full health. 😁 I shall no doubt have many questions.

There's often more than one possible option of ABS modules with different connectors, so probably best to either post a photo of the connector, or supply VIN or reg so I can look up.

Since my parts catalogue link earlier in the thread is broken, and I struggled a bit to see the location @xman was pointing out in his photo, the blanking plug referred to by the OP is seen in the video I posted, just to the left of the coolant grommet at about 06:15 into the vid. Plug and oring look like this: I'll have to check mine, but I doubt I'm lucky enough for it to be as easy as that to fix.

Having just bought a 2012 Roomster with a very oil-covered CBZB (1.2 TSI) engine, I started researching possible sources. I think the OP's sealing plug leak may be relatively rare compared with the gasket shown being changed in this excellent video. YouTube has several other versions in various languages, which is what makes me think it's a common problem, but none I've tried are as thorough and well made as this one. This is in German, but the way the parts being undone are clearly shown and sometimes highlighted in red, makes it remarkably easy to follow.

NOx has never been measured at a UK MOT. HC (hydrocarbons) and CO (carbon monoxide) are only tested on petrol engine cars. Lambda (air/fuel ratio control) is also only checked on petrol engine cars. For diesels, the opacity (smokiness) of what comes out of the tailpipe is the only test. Yours passed nicely with a 0.1 reading against a 0.33 maximum.

What's the problem with it? Leaking gas, making lots of extra noise presumably?? If that part number is correct it has been superseded by 6R9253609G, which may help with finding one. Approx £220 for new genuine at Skoda parts counter.

The strip fuse at the battery end of the alternator output cable isn't blown, is it? Measure volts on cable end of it and compare with voltage at other end (above it in image).

There may be a rather poor connection somewhere between alternator and battery. Can you prize off the plastic cap from the alternator output terminal and measure directly there, carefully, to be sure of not shorting probe to anything unintended? Red probe on that stud, black probe on alternator alloy body. If that's nice and 14.3-ish, but the voltage across battery posts is much less, you will have confirmed a poor connection.

So Arnold Clarke is giving bad info. As I said above, if you want to know the exact build date I can tell you, but not without the requested details.

A smart alternator is only used on cars with start/stop and EFB or AGM batteries. I seem to remember reading on here that UK market mk2 Fabias never came with such things. Sorry if we've covered this before, but does the battery light illuminate when the ignition is switched on?

The first two fault codes you mention are related to the accelerator pedal, not the throttle body. I would look for wiring damage near to the pedal connector.

I'm pretty sure you don't and shouldn't have a smart alternator. The car doesn't have start/stop functionality, right?

VAG CAMBELT REPLACEMENT INTERVAL CHANGE - General Automotive Chat - BRISKODA Lots of stuff about it all over the forum in the last 19 months or so. Good news for most folk who were binning perfectly good timing kits every 5 years, at their own expense, for no particular reason.

@J.R. I said in the reply above yours that it was a case of swapping in a working alternator, which I found on ebay for a very good price, genuine, supposedly from a 2010 vehicle with only 35k miles or something. Tested it by temporarily fitting it to my Polo on Friday. All fittings and connections were correct, shame I failed to notice that the pulley is offset outwards by about 10mm on a Polo one compared with this one! 😆 The belt rapidly derailed itself partially off the A/C pulley, but by the time I'd noticed that and hastily switched off, I'd confirmed that it was giving a healthy output. Belt appeared to have survived, luckily. The swap isn't a total piece of cake on the Roomy 1.2 TSI, 'cos there's no room to extract upward, and the A/C compressor has to be dropped down to get it out downward. Lots of oil all over the engine; source(s) to be confirmed and corrected. I will indeed start a thread in the Roomster Projects section, I think. Thanks for your interest. 🙂

I'm not exactly sure what my bet would be. Did you take any photos of the a-pillar wiring before you started the repair? Do the experiment with an added earth connection, data always helps. 🙂

The (brown) earth to the switchpack comes from pin 5 of the 32-way connector of the door module. It splits off to various bits of the door electrics from here (like the locking warning light), but does not appear to connect back into the main car loom via the connector at the A-pillar. So I guess the easiest thing to try is maybe take a wire from a known earth point on the vehicle, and join it to the brown wire that comes from the switchpack (pin 4 of the 10-way connector at switchpack). See if that fixes everything. If it does, you can maybe make a shorter link from the thick brown earth wire on pin 20 of the 20-way connector

Does the backlighting of the switch panel work when the vehicle lights are on? The switches and backlighting rely on the same earth wire for their operation, so checking the backlighting may demonstrate if the earth is compromised.

If you let me know the reg or VIN, I can check build date for you.

@J.R. I popped over yesterday with an A4 full of tools and a spare alternator. Charging happily now, but new battery ordered, looks like the 13-year old original in there, and was down at about 6V on arrival yesterday.

Thanks so much! Very smooth trip home thanks. Looking forward to working on it to get it all tip-top. (Probably for it to then be poached by my partner, who definitely likes the look of it. Guess I can always find another. 😁). Really enjoyed meeting you and your family.

Yes, that's a twin cam. This thread may be useful to you for checking the chain timing: Has my timing chain skipped? Any easy way to check? - Skoda Fabia Mk2 (2007-2014) - BRISKODA