Breezy_Pete
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Everything posted by Breezy_Pete
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Possibly item 10 here? Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts When was the car built?
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Look for the part number moulded into it somewhere.
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Try removing the red/green wire from the strip fuse and go for a careful test drive. Should get a warning light quite soon after starting to move, I think. Did you try driving with fuse 25 absent? (As opposed to just having ignition on or engine idling, stationary on driveway.)
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Look at strip fuse no.6 in the fuse tray above the battery. See if it looks newer than any of the others. That might indicate a repair to this common failure; which may have happened subsequently to someone masking the warning light. Not sure if there's a way to make all the lights come on in the cluster, if there is it will be from "output tests" in module 17, the instrument cluster. Possibly quite easy to remove and disassemble cluster enough to physically look. I had a Polo with no emissions warning light that turned out to have a bit of black tape stuffed down the hole that the LED sat below.
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No idea, sorry.
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Yes, if the brakes are as rum4mo described. Genuine part number for bearing was 6R0407621A, superseded by 6C0407621. You may or may not already be aware that this is a Gen2 type bearing that needs special tooling to fit. See e.g. GEN2 Wheel Bearing Removal Tools | 2nd Generation Just pressing the whole lot in by the hub face will likely result in failure and damage to the bearing.
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Your rear discs are 272x10mm, current part number 5Q0 615 601D, currently £57.60 + VAT each at Skoda.
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Will look up later this evening for you.
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Dumb bstards if it's true. Seems even more likely to be discovered than VW's NOx emissions dodge.
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@Yety knowing what size your rear discs are is a good start. Either measure, or let me look up for you with reg or VIN. Debatable. A lot of recent Skoda models seem to have very poor quality rear discs from the factory, at least in terms of corrosion resistance.
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Oh, sorry, I misunderstood.
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Was the replacement new, or second hand?
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Build date of current engine is the only relevant one. If the currently fitted Mann filter has given no trouble, then just buy another with same PN.
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Looks wrong to me. What year is the car @TSIspirit ?
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No worries, just good to know what engine we're dealing with. I imagine there's going to be an EGR cooler on the back of the engine which might be another source of coolant/pressurised gas interchange, can sometimes bypass that by moving coolant hoses around to eliminate. Might also be a coolant based intercooler, which might be another non-HG gas entry spot. That would be just pressurised air as opposed to combustion product gases, so wouldn't trigger the chemical kit?
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Which engine is this? What year? The forum sub-section you're in and your profile info don't really match up, and it appears to be a diesel from the engine cover visible in that first pic.
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Ta. Your passenger side motor is part number 6R0959801P. I suspect, given the symptoms, that the relay on the little tiny circuit board inside it has developed worn/burnt contacts for the 'up' direction of motor rotation. New replacement of whole motor is >£200 from Skoda, so not recommended. I could replace the relay for you, but the cost of secondhand ones on ebay may be cheaper, e.g. this one, from a similar age same model: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314929997322 Obviously, 2nd hand ones may have similar or other issues, but I think this generation of motors is reasonably reliable compared to some. The other thing probably worth doing, if there's any crustiness to be found, is to give the outer seal at the bottom of the passenger window pane a good clean-up to reduce friction. Old toothbrush and warm water with a touch of washing up liquid will probably suffice.
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The fan control module only powers the radiator fan(s). The solenoid valve in the compressor is driven by the climatronic module. Wires sometimes break at a plug/socket intermediate connection in front of the gearbox.
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Dunno, sorry.
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Got an M10 spline bit? If so, remove that seat for improved access.
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An adequate one is extremely cheap and widely available.
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Measure voltage at each end of the (empty) fuse socket with ignition switched on.
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^ Should've waited a couple more months for the 20th anniversary of the posting! 😁
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