Breezy_Pete

It's a LIN wire from the alarm horn to BCM. Link to lock microswitch (actually the earth) solder thing: Locking misbehaviour, another possible cause - Skoda Fabia Mk1 (1999-2007) - BRISKODALocking misbehaviour, another possible cause - Skoda Fabia Mk1 (1999-2007) - BRISKODA The lock repaired in that thread remains in service, fault free nearly five years on.

OK, well I don't always trust car mechanics, but if you are convinced to try it, you could just fit the replacement one and try it. Officially you should adapt the engine ECU to the replacement, using VCDS or similar. See Throttle Body Alignment (TBA) - Ross-Tech Wiki. This educates the ECU about the voltages on the position feedback potentiometers within the throttle body at the limits of travel. I think it will probably work OK without doing this. Disconnecting the battery will do nothing that taking the key out of the ignition switch doesn't do, as far as the engine ECU is concerned.

OK, so non-turbo 1.2 12-valve 3 cylinder. Have you checked the vacuum pipe which connects the brake servo (booster) to the intake manifold? These crack at the junctions of the hard plastic sections causing false air to enter the manifold, out of control by the throttle body.

What makes you think it needs to be replaced? When was the car built? Which 1.2 petrol engine is it? With or without turbo?

Yes, there's just the two-way signal connector and the hefty output wire, but it is quite possible to not reconnect that 2-way, or the latch on it be broken so it doesn't stay properly mated. I'd imagine it's accessible enough to get at without major disassembly. Does battery light come on with ignition? That's the other wire in the 2-way.

Possibly my pic and vid? 20200910_155143.mp4

Lots of 2nd hand ones ebay at various prices. 🙂

That number does seem correct for your car, but has been superseded by 5J7955711C.

@Dabber2024, from what you say about the dash display correctly showing door open/closed status I'd imagine there's nothing wrong with microswitch or its wiring. Rather, when you go to enter the car, the interior monitoring sensor is picking up your movements and triggering the alarm, assuming you have 'locked' the car and so set the alarm. Unfortunately, I don't expect VCDS lite will work on a mk2 Fabia built from March 2010 onwards. Can't remember exactly why not, but never heard of anyone trying and succeeding with a Fabia younger than this.

New genuine stat and temperature sensor ordered from a VW dealer, and a new stat pipe/housing bit from aftermarket/ebay seem to have finally put the cool running fiasco behind me a few weeks back. That was a ballache! In other good news, I took a punt on the cheapest of 3 MAFs GSF were suggesting for my reg (Hella branded), and it seems to have ended the driveability problems I was having. Smokeless and smooth now. Much more enjoyable drive.😎

For your car, the catalogue says 1K8951605B, [my emphasis on the 8] which has been superseded by 1K0951605F the latter retails at £207.50 + VAT currently in UK.

Flat face towards ABS sensor, from memory.

I presume they were referring to the charcoal canister, a part of the evaporative emissions equipment. An unusual failure point and definitely not a service item. Liquid fuel does not go through it.

The part appears to be pretty cheap, but I can't quite tell from the photos here if there's a separate gasket, or it's integrated. Looks more like a groove for a gasket, or for sealant? Volkswagen / Audi / Seat / Skoda Oil Separator 04E103464AM - LLLParts Might just be able to remove, clean up and re-seal your one, if it is a sealant fit. Access may be awkward; dunno. It's on the front of the block.

And have you checked that they are on the correct sides of the car, since I posted that photo showing how it looks like they might be possible to fit on the wrong sides? A photo from below with a phone camera at arms length might be enough to see.

Did I understand correctly that you have changed the lower arm balljoints? That's what I understood from your statement below Not sure because just yesterday you quoted me but then showed a photo of the track rod end, not the lower arm balljoint? Did you change these: or not?

Yep, just the shaft, unless there are other bits on the whole leg that might come in useful?

Looks like left driveshaft part number is 6R0407763E currently. Secondhand via ebay may be best bet for a quickish result.

Can you message me with VIN or reg plate?

Unplug the loom connector from the coolant temperature sensor and have a close examination of the mating face. Look for signs of wetness or corrosion. Sometimes coolant temperature sensors fail in a way that makes them leak pressurised coolant into the connector and wiring.

Would be interesting to see what the torsion value is currently. VCDS measuring block 4, last field if I remember right. Just make sure you get the right locking tools and right info before starting the cambelt job.

That Amazon item I linked above really does go to zero current when the red switch is off. 13mA when it's on and doing nothing other than displaying the voltage though. More current still as each pushbutton switch for the outlets is enabled (blue LED on each), even with nothing connected to them. I wouldn't leave it with voltage display left on, unless I was actively monitoring the voltage in the short term.

This suggests maybe it is possible to misfit. This is a left one,

Yeah, they probably don't fit the hole pattern if they're on the wrong sides, But worth a quick double-check, I think.