Everything posted by Breezy_Pete
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Is my Fabia 2 pre or post facelift?
VIN not needed, now that I look into it. They've simplified down to just two options. 5J0 971 120 HG if it has just front electric windows. (£120 + VAT at Skoda) 5J0 971 120 HH if it has front and rear. (£138 + VAT) LLL parts will surely be cheaper for either. Currently offering the former at £93 including VAT, somehow: Skoda Wiring Set For Door 5J0971120HG - LLLParts
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Is my Fabia 2 pre or post facelift?
You'll have to be fairly prompt in getting that info to me though, off to the gym and then elsewhere shorty.
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Is my Fabia 2 pre or post facelift?
If you let me know the VIN, I can look up currently recommended loom, and price (RRP) for you.
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Sump Replacement
Visible belts are almost always auxiliary belts, not cambelts.
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1.6tdi High pressure fuel pipes part numbers?
This will probably help: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts
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Cruise Control issue
Sorry, just scrolled up and see that we've discussed this before.
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Cruise Control issue
Does the car definitely have a G85 sensor? I forget the identification of the one on the rack, as opposed to column, but that might be all you have.
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Crank, no start; very jerky crank though...
Thanks Alasdair. Old house was very rural and parking area had big sycamores all around, so these seeds no doubt date back to then. We're a bit more suburban now, sadly. Since getting the (1.2 TSI) Roomster, the little 3-pot Fabia seems very noisy, so just splashed out on the under-bonnet noise insulation sheet. Wonder if it'll make much difference.
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skoda fabia vrs mk1 potential fueling issue?
Lift/remove the right side rear seat squab and peel back carpet to get to top of in-tank fuel pump. Disconnect the 4-way connector and put multimeter probes into the contacts the thicker two wires go to. Arrange meter so you can see from where you can turn the key to make the engine crank over. See what voltage is shown.
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Roomster Rear offside door stuck shut.
@gilroom not sure of the answer to either of your questions, but do now own a Roomster, so could potentially have a look at ours, but I would think someone on here must have replaced a rear door lock module and know from experience? I can also try to look up via workshop manuals, will do that now.
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Crank, no start; very jerky crank though...
Forgot the vacuum cleaner, but took along a pal to help with unscrewing the lock ring that holds the pump in (two hammers opposite sides of the ring 'turrets'). Wouldn't have got it off on my own, I think. Also wouldn't have got the fuel hoses off, cos I hadn't brought my glasses and couldn't see how the latch worked. He did. Anyway, having ordered the business part of the pump from GSF, but not yet collected, we went to the car to eyeball the pump, to see how easy it would be to fit just the above 'fuel pump swirl pot' section as opposed to an entire pump assembly (half the price for just the pump). Just before we left, it occurred to me that another thing to check whilst in there would be the connections to the pump motor itself (not the external 4-way loom connector, but internal spade connections. Pic of similar connections stolen from an ebay ad for an aftermarket pump: One was nice and tight, just a plain male/female 1/4" spade, the other was one of the flag type connectors with a latch so it can't come off. It hadn't come off, but it was as loose as a goose, and there was no sign of the usual 'fresh metal scrape' you get when you disconnect a good one; all dull metal. Squeezed each side of the receptacle with some little pliers, reassembled everything. Fixed. 😁
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Crank, no start; very jerky crank though...
Tentative good news. Chain timing all OK as far as I can tell. Compression good across all three. All plugs look OK, but barely smell of any fuel. Something appears to have nested above the fuel pump... ...but I have volts at the connector when cranking. No sound of whirry fuel pumpingness though when cranking. And tellingly (thanks @bigjohn for reminding me to check basics) no fuel comes out of the schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail when I push the pin in. Fuel lack appears to be the problem. Car is parked about 500 metres from a GSF where they have a choice of pump brands in stock. Might not be game over for the Fabia after all. 😁 Edit. Note to self; take handheld vacuum cleaner with me when I go back to change pump!
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Crank, no start; very jerky crank though...
20250424_080000.mp4
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Crank, no start; very jerky crank though...
Will attempt to video it shortly.
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Crank, no start; very jerky crank though...
I'll try cranking a bit before removing plugs to check compression. Ta.
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Crank, no start; very jerky crank though...
Got a call this afternoon from stranded partner. 05 Fabia (1.2 12V HTP, very low miles 2nd engine), won't start. Got her to check ignition coils' fuse, but that seemed OK. Has fuel in tank, tries to catch sometimes but never quite does. Handheld OBD scanner says no fault codes, she told me. Rush hour rescue drive... VCDS also sees no fault codes in engine ECU. Shows rpm when cranking, on tacho and vcds. Thought there was at least one spare coilpack in car, but no, a coilpack box with other spare sensors in. 🙁 Jumping around on its mounts when cranking, not looking good. About half a mile from a GSF, but bang on closing time when I decided to buy a coilpack, so a little further to ECP who did have one 10 mins before their closing. Tried in all 3 cylinders with no change. ☹️ Coolant level spot on, oil at minimum; that's unusual, dunno when last checked. Fearing a chain issue here, will take compression tester to it first thing, and tools to examine chain timing via cam end covers. Anyone got any suggestions of other things to try, please? I'll look at the plugs prior to comp test.
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Sorry, another brake disc size - no sticker in boot with option numbers
Message me with VIN.
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Error code 000258
The MAF sensor should show a reduction in the flow of fresh air in proportion to how much EGR recirculation is commanded. If EGR is very blocked, like yours, then the expected change in MAF reading will not happen.
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Fabia 1.2 HTP 51kW Engine Problems
I think the only sensible solution to the oil burning is to drop a replacement engine in, preferably one with low mileage and known condition. Much easier and cheaper than major work on that engine. But with the other problems as well, I think it should be heading toward the scrapyard.
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Central Locking
When ours was doing this a few years ago, it turned out to be a cracked solder joint on the circuit board within the passenger front lock module. You can often work out which lock has the problem by unlocking with remote, then opening a door. The one with a bad connection probably won't be recognised as having opened, and car will self-lock again with door wide open. 20200910_155143.mp4
- Window motor repair service
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Oil usage
How many miles have you done in those 6 weeks?
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Front door cable bellows - part number?
6Q0959843K Not handed, fits either side. 🙂
- Window motor repair service
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Identification required please
Not enough to bother buying a new one, but probably worth trying to refit that one, it may just snap into place.