Breezy_Pete

Yes, I can confirm that pin 1 is the blue wire. Interesting that the keying is different, I shall try to remember that.

The insert helps to retain the contacts, I think. checking pin numbers for you now, but I expect that's right.

Not true, unless the car has start/stop technology, which I doubt, or the replacement one was the wrong type. Where did you get it from? Any photos from listing etc.?

Keeping my fingers crossed that the fault doesn't come back after all that. Is that oil pressure switch plug fully on? Or is that an extra-long switch? It looks odd?

Is it the twin cam or single cam 1.2? (Spark plugs vertical down centre of head in the former, angled out the front in the latter)

Or the timing chain has jumped. That fault code isn't one that Google recognises. Please check for typos.

Google images will show you lots of graphs of voltage versus lambda value and/or air/fuel ratio. Does VCDS not show you some fault codes in engine ECU? Emissions (picture of engine) light on?

Either should be fine. May not find new ones of the old part number though.

Is there maybe a washer left behind stuck to the gearbox from the old switch, which is making the distance wrong for the new switch? If that isn't the probIem, I would get a genuine new switch, personally.

Yes, measure for volts on blue wire contact of alt plug with ignition on.

Can you see markings next to the two way connector on the Bosch alt? Should say L and DF, I think, if it's the correct type.

No, it's just a (very) little air filter.

Yes, it should latch on and generate its own field current once it starts charging. Yes, probably normal for revs to be limited out of gear, not moving.

It's known as DFM, Digital Field Monitor. It informs the engine ECU how hard the alternator is being worked, as a percentage of its maximum capability at any given engine revs. It being broken would not have the same effect on the warning light. That other wire changes colour at the 4-way connector from brown/red to violet/green before heading onward to ECU. The blue wire goes onward, still blue into the cabin, to the BCM (Onboard supply control unit).

There's an intermediate connector pair between the two-way connector at the alternator and the final destination of the two wires. It's a 4-pin plug/socket pair 'front left in engine compartment'. That's left as experienced sitting in the car facing forward, so on the right side of the engine bay if you are standing in front of the car looking in. I would try to locate and inspect that connector pair before necessarily blaming the alternator connector, you may find a broken blue wire there instead.

Latch was probably broken when removing from old alt. Not a warning light bulb, it's an LED; but the wire that excites the alt, the blue one in that two-way connector, helps the alternator 'boot up' when engine is starting. It indirectly results in the warning light coming on, or not doing. Yes, if the blue wire is not connecting to the alt, either at the plug or somewhere on route to it, the warning light will not work. Generally, a burst of revs (2500, say) will start the alternator charging, even without the blue wire being intact, so try that as evidence that the replacement alternator is itself OK.

I'll send you a message. 🙂

@JonLongstaff are you selling or scrapping?

I'm seeing belt. A difference as significant as a change of timing mechanicals would surely result in a different engine code, I'd imagine.

Did the immobiliser chip get moved across from the old key? That's not on the circuitboard, nor in the key blade. Small glass tube a few mm long. Needs gentle removal.

Undo item 28 bolts: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts

Can you unbolt the bracket that attaches it all to the side of the head, so you can work on the bench/in the vice?

Is it the metal pipe that won't come off, or the EGR itself? If metal pipe is off, is the outer metal gasket off too? Remembering now that I moved that outer gasket along threads to the end, but left it on to hold studs parallel while freeing the valve body.

A decade since I did the one on our Fabia, but I seem to remember that the studs had become a bit non-parallel over time. Think I somehow squeezed them together, or pushed them apart at the ends to square them up, then prize the thing off. Might be corroded on with white aluminium oxide jamming everything up too. Heat will probably help.

Hi Bill, yes I can sort that for you. I'll send you a message with phone/whatsapp number in a sec. 👍