Gaz

Have you peeled the safety sticker off of the key battery? Does the key work? (Does it have a red LED that lights on a button push?) Do you have a second key to try? Gaz

Hello and welcome Ian Friends from 200 yards away here emigrated to Perth some 20 odd years ago, now settled in Alkimos, if you know where that is. Gaz

We’ve had a 2015 Polo with the DQ200 for seven years now, and it’s been faultless. Gaz

My first Skoda was a 2005 Mk1 Superb 😎 G

Had a good run with the Superb then 👍 I'm recently-ish retired too, and should really come down to one car, but Mrs Gaz isn't interested in driving the V70, and I'm not ready to give up my Golf yet. All the best for many happy miles in the Swace. Gaz

🤮

My blue (grey) GTI has a nice pop to it. Car before it was a Sprint Yellow vRS estate - never had any trouble finding it! Dark Iron Blue: Sprint Yellow: G

I really like Phoenix Orange 😎 Know what you mean about too much of it though. G

Must've been truly terrifying: Gaz

Hello and welcome Mike Gaz

My previous car was a 2015 vRS TSI (EA888 G3) and had long superseded previous versions tensioner concerns. As Redboy says, it's a great engine 👍 Make sure the heater works, and if the header tank has 'mit Silikat' on it, make getting any silica bag out of the tank an early priority. Gaz

Mila won't charge properly unless she's plugged in G

I think that's a voice you shouldn't be listening to 😁

I know you're asking Nigel, but twelve years ago I spent $2114 (£1100) having the gearbox fixed on my Saab 9-5, only to write the car off six weeks later 😳 (Gearbox was a joy for the six weeks though). Replacement for the Saab was my first Skoda - every cloud.... Gaz

Welcome Pablo Gaz

If you're handy with a spanner and happy to do so, why not remove the matrix and see if you can get any flow going? I had some success with my Sister's Micra many years ago, with flushing back and forth, tapping and vibrating (chisel setting on a hammer drill - taking it easy as the core's not particularly robust) muck out: Gaz

Hello and welcome Stuart Not mine, but you may well be interested in this - looks a good bit of kit: Gaz

Hello Wb As my dear old Dad used to say 't'is a sad arse that can't rejoice' 😁 Gaz

Does this topic help at all?:

I generally leave a microfibre wrapped sponge full of warm water over the offending poo for a good while, to allow stuff to soften and some to float away. If it's on a level-ish area (e.g. bonnet or roof) I use an old silicone ring (from an old tupperware type lid) around it to help keep it as wet as possible while soaking. I've found a hand held garden sprayer useful for a localised jet of water on the area. I keep any 'wiping' to a bare minimum as the poo sediment will have grit in it.

Horses for courses IMO. Not much to choose between them. Maybe show us the adverts? I'd suggest you inspect and drive both, then make your mind up from there. Should become apparent which you prefer. Gaz

1972 Austin 1300 Van Den Plas auto. Specifically, this one: Gaz

Hello Beggi and welcome Very common suspects are dry solder joints in the door lock control module (in the door), or damaged wiring between the 'A' pillar and door. Although for a Passat, this proved useful for when I had a Mk1: https://www.taligentx.com/passat/maintenance/doorlockmechanism/ Gaz

I don't think this is correct. See here: https://www.themotorombudsman.org/knowledge-base/what-are-a-consumers-legal-rights-when-buying-a-car 'If you are now outside of the first 30 days, the seller has one opportunity only to repair or replace the faulty car. You will not be able to ask for rejection at this stage. This does not apply to cars purchased before 1 October 2015. The Sale of Goods Act allows the seller to either repair or replace the car within a reasonable period of time without causing significant inconvenience. If you are complaining about a fault within the first six months of purchase, it is presumed this fault was there at the time of purchase. The seller will need to prove that this fault was not there at point of sale. If you are complaining about a fault outside of the first six months, you will need to prove that fault was there at point of sale. If the seller is unable to repair the fault because the same fault persists or a new inherent fault has developed, or the replacement car has an inherent fault, then you can ask for your money back or a price reduction (partial refund) if you wish to keep the car. Remember, for rejection outside of the first 30 days, the seller is entitled to deduct the mileage you have added onto the car.' And: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/content/advice/how-does-the-consumer-rights-act-protect-you-when-you-buy-a-car 'The Consumer Rights Act stipulates that dealers will only get one chance to repair or replace the product, so dealers can’t make multiple attempts to fix a problem unless otherwise agreed. If they fail to remedy the fault in one attempt or within a reasonable time period, you’ll be entitled to a full or partial refund. Alternatively, you can ask for another attempt at repairing/ replacing or for financial compensation. The law says, in almost every case, there can be no reductions from any refund given in the first six months. However, motor vehicles are the one exception, where the seller can make a ‘reasonable’ reduction for the amount the car has been used.' Agreed, although it looks like @Whitie needs to allow the seller '..one opportunity only..' to repair or replace it first - 'without causing significant inconvenience'. I think it'd be sensible for Whitie to seek advice from Trading Standards/Consumer Direct at this point Gaz