varaderoguy

naghh (slight squeak of anguish)....not necessarily. I've seen some bad airlocks on Golfs/Audi's. Remember that when they change coolant at the dealer, they do it under pressure to get rid of the airlocks. It comes down to blocked/trapped air in the heater core. You can let the expansion cap open to vent any air when the car is hot though (to be done extremely carefully and at a risk of scolding)

I stand corrected - yes, apologies. On non-FL model, this was standard.

oh heck...potential parts cannon alert. Firstly, its best to find somebody close with either an ODBEleven dongle or VCDS. Get a proper scan done on the car - lets find out what its not happy with. With Octavia Taxis (going by your biog - is it a TDI1.6), they need the occasional good/long/fast run to keep them good. We are talking about a blast down to Preston and back down the M6. Take it out...put some heat into the exhaust - let the re-gen complete and take it from there. Suggest once a week (you do a long trip) to keep the engine happy.

That is a great posting. Very good research.

You need the front wing/bumper layout for a 2017-2020 car (known as MK3.5 as opposed to MK3).

Can you press (and hold) MENU button and go into the software version and post it here. If you are in a 2020 car, I would expect an SOP4.x version of about 0480 for an Amunsden system. Anything earlier will glitch for Apple Carplay.

Oohh - quite a rare setup - that looks like Xenon headlights, LED running lights and double-fog light - which if I remember correctly - the back one is high-beam and the front is the fog of the lower cluster. Fogs (again if I remember correctly) are usually H15 bulbs (maybe go got an LED upgrade [make sure you get the correct ones that are CANBUS approved].

DPF's are a problem unless you are doing long/fast runs. The re-gen process is really important to let it complete. I would first hold of an ODBEleven dongle and get the car to do a forced-re-gen as a matter of urgency. If it doesn't allow you, then your DPF is blocked and it will need to be backflushed to clean it out. Its not just a VAG problem; lots of diesel vehicles suffer these problems (thinking about Nissan/Renault engines and people ambling around town and not understanding that their cars need the re-gen and the heat to keep themselves clear).

Screens do not need coding in. I'll 100% confirm with @pab567 on that one, but I'm sure you don't need to do that. The coding part only comes when you need to replace the head unit. Something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/116035037330?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4C7ZXTjJRQS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=k67ujbMHTfW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

There is some kind of airlock. Check the header tank levels. It's worth checking to see if the Silicone 'bag of death' has split in the header tank. If it has, you need to get a coolant flush done asap, otherwise it will chaos with silicone getting into the cooling channels on the block etc.

Batteries do die and quickly loose their capacity at that age. The first sign that things aren't right is the auto stop/start stops working, followed by fluctuation in the lights on the car (the inability of the battery to cope with changes of voltage and current). You should be doing a CCA test at this point. VAG testers basically condem a battery if it gets below 65% battery capacity. I find a good long run to charge and condition the battery is worth doing before the service. The poor starting is also another indicator. Coding for replacement of battery is simples. I prefer to put in the serial number of the battery (only because I'm OCD). Either AFM/EFB battery is acceptable and try find a battery with a decent 4 or 5 year warranty and a decent brand.

You are all good. Seal look counterintuitive, but as others have stated...it's correct. Seal sits of top. If it looks proud, press on the panels to make sure they all home.

Just seen the previous answer; if the fan is coming on after every journey, this means the car is trying to so a regen. I think a longer journey to let the car complete it's regen is appropriate. It might be worth getting the calculated soot levels for the DPF. If the car had a blocked DPF, it would throw a code (suggest investing in a ODBELEVEN dongle). 200kms...engine is barely run in! I hope you don't have an oil burner (keep an eye on oil consumption) and run some decent super diesel through it occasionally (or my personal option is a Cetane improver - especially if you are using supermarket fuel)

If it is a VRS TDi 4x4, then this is quite a rare spec. It will come with a (slightly knotchy when cold) 2nd gear and generally the 4x4 badges on the boot and also on the gear knob. Your car is a HALDEX 5 system. Very good and the four wheel drive only comes into effect when you loose traction on the front. It's not a permanent 4 wheel drive system. Are you sure it is a TDI, because unless you are driving it super hard, I would expect mid to high 40mpg on the fuel consumption side of things. TSI (petrols) on a VRS would definitely give you the mpg you stated. As @Gerrycansaid, you can confirm by the driveshaft under the length of the car and the HALDEX box at the back. You need to get the HALDEX oil changed every 20k miles and the filter cleaned otherwise the 4x4 system may not engage when you need it.

Yes, it is tricky. Had the same problem when it came to the family Fabia. Trying to find the correct brakes and pads was hardwork. There are multiple variations and VAG has a habit of changing components mid-production cycle. With patience and careful checking, it is possible to get the correct parts from Euro Car Parts.

If you have the TDI184, then you are good to tow. The TDi150 had smaller rads and needed to be upgraded prior to towing.

That's yuk. Generally coolant is every 5 years; the silicone bag was there to aide lubrication of the cooling system. If you can remove the silicone bag then great (there are three different designs out there). If not, it's a new bottle. If there is no record, get it flushed and get new coolant G12evo into the vehicle.

We are talking about the switch above the reg plate. Known weak point.

Yup - the boot latch switch has died. Common fault. Take off the back panel of the boot lid and replace the switch itself. They suffer from water ingress.

Ideally - as the 1.8T engine is an older engine model, it is worth running it on the older VAG 504/507 spec oil which should be 5W30. Its not going to make a ton of difference, but as you will find, VAG cars are SUPER picky about their oil. Don't cheap out here. If you google "VAG 1.8T high oil consuption" - there are lots of posting about failing ventilation springs on the PCV (both on here and on VW groups). Might be a reasonable look. With oil consumption that high, you really need to get it looked at ASAP. re: coolant. I would expect the mechanic to top up the header tank after a waterpump change. Sounds like the system might have 'burped' itself and you now have low coolant. You need some G12Evo fluid (available online/VAG outfits) to top up the header tank. I personally keep it on the full-mark.

There are loads of links on how to retrofit a camera (at least on Briskoda). Depends on your budget; you are confident with electronics and don't mind use a cheap-chinese camera, then you can do it for under a £100. I would, however, spend out on a proper VAG camera. The genuine ones come with rear washers build-in and a far better image and less lightly to fail. Whatever you do, it involves taking out lots of trim along the passenger side / trim clips and run cables to the boot. Once wired in to the back of the MIB system, its then a couple of coding options needed to enable up the camera.

The screen doesn't need coding in....I would use this opportunity to replace this screen (it looks like an Amunden system) with a screen from a Facelifted MIB system - which should be drop-in replacement. The early screens from a non-Facelifted car do seem prone to failure.

My thoughts are that you have a potential low battery problem or a parasitic load on the electrical system that would definitely cause this symptom. The alternator is working double-time just to keep up. Switch off the car; latch the bonnet latch (and potentially the door latch) and let the car go to sleep. You need an amp clamp multimeter. If the draw is more than between 20-35mA at sleep you have a parasitic draw. There will be a code stored for a device not able to go to sleep in the diagnostics code scan. Also worth doing a CCA test on the battery. If the battery is dying, and exhibits low voltage, you will also get problems. Just seen the battery replacement....did you code in the new battery? If not, this will also be the source of your problem. The alternator will refuse to charge the battery until the battery is coded in (EFM/AFM battery)

With loss of comms; its either a battery problem (do a CCA test and see what the state of the battery is like) - or you have a blown fuse and part of the CAN High has gone offline.

If you can find it, there was an option for a clear film for the rear bumper. Something like this?? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204620895296