varaderoguy

Asking Administrators to move this discussion.

Officially, you need to get the turbo and actuator replaced at the same time. I think this is to match the mechanism with the turbo. However, the fault you report comes down to the actuator failing - probably due to lack of use. This is the weird thing with VAG products - you have to use them like ya stole them! Lots of turbo actuator use - plus I also recommend putting in a tank of Super Unleaded to help the performance of the engine. If you take the actuator apart, clean it up, lubricate the motor, then it can be recovered. As @Warrior193 stated, you can get actuator rebuild kits - in fact, a quick check shows that VW do a rebuild kit -

I would suggest that you have a potentially faulty electrical ballast in that case. I had an early Xenon MK2 Scout and that came down to water in the ballast. As a check though, you need to get a scan done of the car as this will show you whether it is a bulb issue or an electrical connection issue.

Not legal for the UK. Honestly, if I was going down that line, look for some dedicated winter tyres. All Seasons will cover most eventualities (especially considering we have warmer winters - and they will deal with Snow and cold down to about -10C).

You'll need the advice of @pab567 in that case.

No - its a thing. TDI engines can be oil burners if they aren't sympathetically run-in and regular oil changes aren't done every 10,000 miles or time-based servicing. You would need to check the bores with a borescope to confirm this though. The trouble is...this is a forum and we are responding to similar issues that we've all experienced in the past. Your original posting suggested the car is using a high level of oil and the DPF blockage is the result of the issue of the engine passing/burning oil. Doing a Hydraclean will fix the problem....for five minutes. EGR blockage will cause poor running and in the worst case, crankcase over-pressuration. My betting is that you have a blown turbo with that high level of oil consumption. That will show up as a fault and you really need a scan done of the car for a better idea of what the car is unhappy about. Get a proper VAG specialist onto the case and get yourself a proper diagnosis.

Hello @zh-zh-zh - yes, the roads are bad also down here in the Scottish Borders! I also know how bad the roads are in Edinburgh. I recommend a good all season tyre to help calm the suspension jiggle. We've been using Goodyear All Season Vector3 tyres in our Octavia household for a while. They have a 205/55/R16 option (the size for the 1.0TSI) available and it should help calm the suspension niggles. https://www.goodyear.eu/en_gb/consumer/why-goodyear/all-seasons.html#benefits

Please only put in genuine Bosch or OEM VAG parts for coil packs. Ebay parts....dodgy as f**k. You should be paying a minimum of £40 per coil pack, and they should be replaced in packs of 4.

Eyks - high oil consumption alert. 300ml in 115 miles is extremely high. You are allowed 1 litre per 1200 miles, so your figures are way higher than that. Suspect that either you have stuck piston rings, a blown turbo, a blocked EGR valve. The DPF will continue to get choked up with soot until you get the oil consumption under control.

Generally, if the engine is between 1.0litre and 1.6litre, it will be using the DQ200 6 speed or 7 speed box. If the engine is a 1.8 or 2.0 TSI/TDI, then it will be using a DQ250 (pre-2018) or DQ381 (post-2018).

It will be all about the measured fuel and the pressure in the high pressure common fuel rail. I would suggest that if the car has done over 120,000 miles, then you need a new set of injectors. Get some decent injectors (i.e. OEM or Bosch) and you shouldn't have issues.

You need a phone that is capable of using the 5Ghz band for Android Auto Wireless to work properly

The reason why nobody is responding is that you keep on posting a HISTORY file which contains configuration data, no error codes. We cannot work with what you have presented. Get a proper scan done using ODBEleven or VCDS and then get back to us.

Officially, the DQ381 box is meant to be serviced at 80,000 miles, but for the sake of reliability, getting it serviced at between 40,000 and 50,000 miles is good practice (and gives your gearbox a better chance of surviving).

If the temperature raises, it is probably the water pump impeller that has failed but again you still need a scan to get the best diagnosis. Get yourself an ODBEleven scanner for proper diagnosis.

@NZedder We really need a scan via VCDS or ODBEleven to make sense of the issue. EPC light covers a multitude of sins.

I would be looking at the electronic power steering. I've heard Golfs with that exact noise before. I think that what happens is that the electronics which control the effort mechanism begins to fail and I've noticed that when you return from right back to centre it seems to be quite slow and usually then comes with that whining noise.

I hope the dealer did a scan on the car...even with an offline version of ODIS. It's sounding a bit like guess work up to now.

You are on the latest firmware.

The breakdown button is a bit of a gimmick IMHO. You also have to pay to use this gimmick! However, if you are doing lots of motorway travelling across multiple locations, then I see the merit of it, but the system is very much tied in with the Skoda Assistance breakdown service/AA (here in the UK) - its a way of keeping you tied in with the Skoda ecosystem. However, the red button part does provide a shortcut to emergency services (via european emergency number 112 - I know I've tried it). If you are involved in a crash and you cannot get out of the car and the module is still active, then I also see that merit. I don't think the red button service requires any subscription. As to the communication system used; I suspect that as this option was from 2017 (in terms of design - facelift Octavia MK3.5 and Golf MK7.5), 3G was still very much protocol. Whether the radio for the comms system could be retrospectively be made to work with 4G, I don't know is the simple answer. If you could find the 'internal' SIM for this service and find a 4G radio, then you could make it future-proof, but it is a lot of Ifs.

Hello Yurii, Thank you for your message. Firstly (and before you should have done anything), I hope you made a backup of the config of the car and all its modules; especially the 5F module. Without that, you are going to get into a world of pain. Typically, you would then get somebody like our resident in-house specialist @pab567 to sell you a new head unit and you would be responsible for a new screen from your local VW/Skoda dealership. There are some cables that need some minor modifications, but once the system is connected up, you would need to get Component Protection removed. I'm not sure if the off-line version of ODIS would do it or not; I know that some Skoda dealers are now loathed to help, some dealers are better than others. Yes, you would need the newer USB module for your car to make use of Apple Carplay/Android Auto.

You've given us the config of your car, not the report/scan of the car. Can you get the scan rescanned and press the report button (top right hand) and send us that report pls.

The Euro5 defeat remediation work generally made the Euro5 engines run like a bag of spanners and lost people a load of MPG.

Good luck with finding that elusive piece of plastic. Its part of the MIB system and you are right - a lot of them get broken and unfortunately there isn't a part number just for that item.

If it's a TDI180/185/190 setup, then my 10p would be that you have experiencing failing injectors. These usually need replacing (ideally all 4) at about 120k miles. In the intervening, can I suggest (if you aren't doing it already) to run some Super Diesel through the car (make it a couple of tanks for good measure) and see if it is a blocked injector causing the stuttering. Can you also find out when the fuel filter was last changed too? If you are also experiencing long crank times, then I might also suggest that your glow-plugs are probably on their way out too (these also need replacing similar mileage to injectors - about 120k miles)