Monkhai

When it’s hot hot you’ll want strong not medium, but as the weather cools you’ll find it almost headache inducing and will want to get back to medium. Last comment was around the fact that there are sensors for cabin temperature and also there was (at least in older cars) a sensor in the dash to let the car know it was in direct sunlight. If either of these are reading incorrectly you’ll have issues.

I recently got mine regassed, it held a vacuum so it was just slight amounts over time. The other option is to check the AC profile is on strong. Press and hold the setup button until the setup comes up on display. After that check/change the temperature or sunlight sensors?

By the time they’ve purchased two XLR they could have had a number of guitar amps… https://www.andertons.co.uk/brands/marshall-amps/jvm-guitar-amps/marshall-jvm410c-100w-2x12-combo-amp Cable or more amp to tour with… I think I know who wins!

Thieving b stewards and plastic fuel tanks combined with anti siphon devices mean that the preferred method is to drill the tank. It’s possibly splash back, but check the tank for a small drilled hole.

Sadly not true.. (well not here and anymore) I believe the airbags on US models are typically designed to protect including those not wearing a belt. However European cars have a bag shaped to provide maximum head protection for belted occupants. Besides which it’s still not worth the risk even if true. Change it and if a bit of crud is extracted from the old one and it works again, then sell it to recover your costs. Edit: FWIW, I benefited from a wheel airbag a good few years ago. Even as the column is collapsible, the bag still slows the impact of your face. To be fair I’m fairly certain the bulkhead moved in that accident, so I wouldn’t be without it👍

It varies, but the official line i keep hearing is 5 years or... That's clearly not something all dealers do, but an affiliate in what way? If they're owned by the same parent company I'd want something of a guarantee from the parent company Personally I'm running a mile again. But VAG reapairs on VAG cars at VAG dealers attract a 2 year warranty on those parts. Again, this doesn't add up, so I'm running another mile. Nice words and all, but it is either 3 months of 12 and the dealer would need to put it in writing. Also read the smallprint of the warranty with great care. You'd be surprised that a lot of warranties (don't know about this one) don't cover a lot of things you would assume would be on an quick glance. Hmm, but that's a temporary situation, which will likely be resolved in a few months as availability of newer cars come to market. I'd still walk away. Zero scope for negotiation when it's had a rebuilt engine = let somebody else pick up the repair job and pay the money you would for one without that history. I'd walk away. Don't get me wrong, I am not saying they pulling a fast one. They have told you about the rebuild, which is more than many car resellers would do. For me the big question is what got replaced? For example: - Did the exhaust/DPF get replaced after the blown engine chucked oil down it? - Did any of the bouncy engine bits that left via the exhaust damage the turbo? - Did the in head injectors get damaged? It's direct injection and interference design, so with bits bouncing around it's possible there was damage. I'm sure I've missed others, but any of these would be a big bill for you to foot. If you don't need to take that risk, why bother.

Further to my last post.... What a flipping car crash: https://www.gov.uk/displaying-number-plates/flags-symbols-and-identifiers Because I want to stick a flag on my reg plate and have many options 😕

Using UK wouldn't go with the ISO country codes and would be a bit close to Ukraine (UA/UKR). The codes for the United Kingdom being GB/GBR https://www.iso.org/obp/ui/#iso:code:3166:UA https://www.iso.org/obp/ui/#iso:code:3166:GB Can't see how we'd ever get plated with UK on them. I quite liked my GB plates and found them useful, but if it's a GB sticker then so be it. EDIT: No it appears the RAC are reporting it here: https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/news/motoring-news/gb-car-sticker-to-be-replaced-by-new-uk-version/ What on earth 😕

TBH, get a new one or a good one from a scrap yard and change it or get it changed In the time it's taken us to reply, an accident could happen and without the seatbelt working you're dead or seriously injured. Just not worth the risk, especially for the low cost. Assuming you mean the buckle rather than the belt, this sort of part is not expensive and as an example (May not be the right one for your car). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265260434080 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284187518043 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114940927064 Scrap yards will sell these every day if you ask one that has an Octavia, and the pretensioner is in the other part not this one I believe.

3 month warranty is not Skoda approved used. They come with at least a year. I would personally walk away…. Purely because if it’s at a dealer and not on the approved list you have to ask why.

People were talking about big problems and corrosion. I probably just did 2+2=5 😂👍

£20 of connectors and £10-20 of cable will make you a pair of 1-2m leads with good plugs and cable. Since balanced reject noise…

😠😠😠

It’s balanced and earthed ffs! You could use twin and earth and bar some flexibility issues it’ll be fine, because that’s the whole point of a balanced connection!!! That really annoys me! Here’s another cable with pricing that is best described as challenging: https://www.fanthorpes.co.uk/cables/streaming-cables/optical-cables/atlas-mavros-optical-cable/

Probably one of the top gear lot who said it, but there is some truth to the line that if you replaced the airbag with a giant spike of death, people would generally drive a lot more carefully.

Probably a blockage on the rear jets or hose. That or they've continued to use the motor where the washer fluid passes through joined pipes and the motor itself in the hatch. Used to result in no wash and a wet boot, if something froze up or rusty motor internals.

I believe (but am not an expert) that it is more about some componenets being alcohol soluable but not hydrocarbon soluable. Using meths/acetone as a solvent will disolve different things. As such it appears that ethanol vs petrol disolve different parts faster. I'd take a guess as gaskets, hoses and seals etc in the fuel system being the primary problem. Back when ULSD was first introduced there were issues with fuel pumps that had relied on the suplhur to lubricate their internals. However here we are, with ULSD being the only fuel option for diesels.

Not sure if the tweeters use fero fluid in those, but if they do get it changed as it basically turns thick. There are at least a couple of people who will service two tweeters and post them back to you for not much more than the minimum quantity of the fluid.

Just found this: https://www.acea.auto/files/130329_revised_ALL_ACEA_SAAB_JAMA_E10_COMPATIBILITY.pdf Via here: https://www.acea.auto/publication/vehicle-compatibility-with-new-e10-b7-fuel-standards/ It states for the 1.3 OHC engine there is a retrofit so it can use e10 and to contact the dealer. I’d suggest contacting a dealer to see if it’s already on the 1.4 or if it can be purchased 👍 FWIW the 1.4 in at least some versions of the fox is an 8v (bkr)

Sorry, I should have been clearer. What I was trying (and failing) to convey was don’t make assumptions based on another similar engine. It could be an ancillary or anything else besides the base engine that’s the cause of an issue Like you, I did notice the early fsi engines on the VW cars listed, but not others and thought it odd.

Have you looked it up on the government site? https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-e10-petrol For example the 1.4 in the VW fox is fine, so I’d base your information on the engine code rather than assuming it’s a bored out Felicia engine. 👍 The 1.3 is listed until 2001 and at 40-50KW (54-67bhp) Edit: What I’m getting at is it might be ancillary parts or the engine that’s the issue.

Can I ask users to start posting into the linked thread instead, so we can keep everything in one place, it would be appreciated. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/490693-e10-fuels/

Can I ask users to start posting into the linked thread instead, so we can keep everything in one place, it would be appreciated. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/490693-e10-fuels/

Depends on what you want the car for I guess. Like Skomaz, I prefer a manual box for the control and just enjoyment of going up and down through the gears. This does not cover being sat in tourist motorway traffic, at which point give me the auto every day 😄

Maybe for a windscreen, but that doesn't automatically cover all glass, and I know of someone where it wasn't applicable to "body glass" such as the panoramic glass roofs. As a general rule I'd check on the policy/with the insurer before making a claim if you're unsure.