Monkhai

Our stat has decided it's always 21 degrees, so considering these two and thought I might as well tag the question onto this thread. Can somebody answer the following for me: 1) Does the hive require me to install the receiver where the exiting stat is and move everything around wirelessly or can I get a version that just wires up to the boiler? 2) Do I need to keep a hue bridge and a Hive bridge if I want to use the hue app, or can I just use a single one of the hive/hue bridge for both? I'm not keen on google for their data slurping, but at the same time, nest seems relatively more simple as long as you can wire in (or get wired in) the receiver box correctly. (That being the question). Thoughts welcome.

Your usb has 4 wires... you need to split a cable behind the dash so that the day lines go to the head unit, and the power comes from the usb charger. The problem with this is that most of the time you need to use the data lines to enable faster charging. So one way or another, you will need to send both lines to both devices. I am sure this is fairly easily done with the diodes or a relay and a fake load on the head unit. You just need to be able to get both to do so for the data for the power negotiations and then pass it to the head unit. Read the usb specs and lash something up, or use something that already exists potentially with more wires.

Depending on the phone, depends on how it does fast charging. It's worth just trying a basic charger and see what happens and also a basic cable. Are you apple, android or something else?

Have you used different cables when testing the charging rates? A poor quality cable can cause a low charging current. I don't mean go buy a fancy one, just go buy a cheap basic one and try that too. As for the MK3, it's probably limited to 500mA max, although you could probably hide a USB 3 charger behind the dash and do a bit of messing around with the data and power wires to make it work.

Light distribution as said, but making more of the light available in the right places can be useful. There are definitely limits to this being useful vs marketing. when I had halogens and in halogen cars I only tried a few, but stuck to the +30, yellow for foggy areas or the long life for thicker filaments/reliability. i never personally believed anything above the +30% myself, but others seem to rate some of the higher ones.

Assuming your car is front wheel drive, you could put the new all season tyres on the rear and run the existing tyres on the front. If it feels bad when the weather gets bad you could get a pair on the front. Do not under any circumstances put summer on the rear and winter/all seasons on the front. (Yes you will get going, but unless you’re careful it’s very easy to lose the back end around a icy or slushy corner) i used to run nokian winter tyres, but frankly their tyre support and ability to get replacements in the middle of winter wasn’t great. Until their UK operation is better supported, I would have to say to stick to major brands. Personally Michelin Cross climate if you’re in a warmer part of the country and Goodyear vector 4 seasons if you get or travel in more of the white stuff. I still have a set of full winters and live in a warmer part of the UK, so I picked cross climates as a summer that I can keep on for longer in the autumn and get on earlier in the spring.

You can get a suitable grease for the back of the pad that usually deals with this. It used to be copper grease but more modern alternatives are nicer to the rubbers etc.

I think, but no idea, it’s related to the load/stress on the coolant, but that’s just a guess.

Mine came OEM with a Varta AGM, so I think the EFB / Alternative brands were a bean counter exercise.

Personally I would ignore the colour and look at a good combination of extended vision (eg more light) and reasonable life. - 30% brighter bulbs seem to do a lot of the first with not too much of a compromise on life. - 50% more light, quite a bit shorter life again - 70%+ bulbs, again more light, but I've only ever found these to have a relatively short life. - +10-30% long life bulbs. As per the name, a bit more light, a good long life (I seem to remember a packet stating 4 years)

Go ask your MOT centre for a second opinion. They have nothing to gain from lying. Like I said I got an advisory that they were a pass but I needed to monitor them, so I would have expected you to if they were that close. And mine were so close I had them booked in to be done anyway. If I had to guess I would say the “garage” is trying to generate some extra business. I will add however at that mileage they could realistically be worn if lots of stop start driving had been done. Should the MOT centre says they’re fine, then you know not to trust the garage. I’d take a manual wire brush to the edge of the disk just to remove any loose rust, which will make it easier to monitor in future.

Looks like the kind of hairdryer they have at pet washing places. I imagine you’ll find the pet dryers are a lot cheaper too.

Wheetabix..... I mean have you tried removing it from a bowl after its soaked the milk in then dried? I’m thinking if they can find a way to put that in sealant, then they really have got a winning product.

I wouldn’t do it as you need alignment tools and the computer. As above you can get it very wrong, With potential consequences so best to use a dealer. I was at the point of getting rid of the car it was that bad, but mine were xenon, low and causing a lack of visibility that was dangerous. I’m not sure if they’re actually too high as the levelling system should deal with that. - Are yours the matrix LED? If so I think you can adjust the point at which they form their version of “dip”. personally I think the things are terrible when they come towards you, but that’s earlier models. - You have got the lights in RHD mode not travel mode? This used to flatline the lights do shouldn’t be a problem, but not sure if LED give a LHD pattern instead. Also don’t forget LED are very white, again i hated having an LED car coming towards me or behind. With the first LED cars, it used to look scattered (like a xenon in a halogen fitting to me) . Not sure if you it was an early design oops or just getter my used to them, as it’s rare I notice it now. I remember Audi cars being particularly annoying to me even though I had Xenon lights. - Have you asked the garage to check the self levelling system is working? I assume LED still has this. If not then you need to manually adjust the lights based on load.

I got exactly the same. Ask them to consider lowerIng both lights to minimum individually and then adjust them up as a pair. It will need to be plugged into the computer to account for the auto levelling Mine had one light that was too high, so the other wouldn’t go high enough and yet they passed the beam test on multiple occasions. My suggestion above is a guess based on what I was told on mine.

Have you still got a hue v1 (round) bridge? The v2 can support plenty of lights, so I am v surprised to see your comment. If you have a v2 you must have really gone to town on devices.

Next year , enhanced with carbon nanotubes and then the year after buckyballs. Sounds like a marketing only term to me.

Do we know if these sealants really have any graphene in it and if so what the supposed advantages of it are? I mean I could take some cheap car wax, melt it, pour in a load of graphene particles and market it as a graphene product. However you wouldn't want to use it as it would probably end up as a scratch inducing mess, with visible particles in it.

I smell sales and marketing

Bit late to the discussion, but that pad Looks fine, so it depends on what the pad behind the disk looks like. The disk looks fine, although the lip looks reasonably large. Is this the first set of pads on these discs? If so I would guess it just looks worse from sitting around, but would do the discs when you do the pads. I recently changed mine after approx 100k and there was far less material in the pad than that. The disc lip less so, but I had wire brushed the edge when I changed wheels. If you have a council run MOT centre or a friendly MOT tester you could always ask for a second opinion. That or get each wheel off and measure what’s left to check against tolerances and limits.

I mean there are no mk3 factory orders, but I imagine VW Ag will be chuffed that you moved up from Skoda to the more expensive/profitable VW models.

Call me dumb, but I wonder how they will react if the airbag goes off...

The removable one is , I believe, just a rebranded travall one. I have this one in my estate: https://www.travall.co.uk/skoda/octavia-estate-2013-/travall-dog-guard-tdg1404. If you want to use the boot splitter, it used to be the case that you couldn't do it with the variable boot floor, although I'm not sure if this is still the case. I believe the fixed one requires a mount to the roof of the car, which is why I didn't seriously consider it. At the time they didn't rebrand the removable one, but it's been very good and well made.

It’s no that hard to add it if you’re a dealer I wouldn’t think...

I meant actually recoding with vcds. In theory it cannot be lost but I have had to recode keys before. Plus how do you know nobody borrowed a part from the car and replaced it before it was sent away? probably fair, but the relay could be blocking power to the fuel pump or just turning off other circuits. Unless we know how the post crash systems work, you don’t know what the effect is. In addition to the above, have you actually scanned the car for errors?