Carlodiesel

First impression Dozerman, is the battery fully charged?. Test standing voltage. Should be 12v plus, normally 12.8+ With the engine running, it should go up to 14.5V If you can do the test come back & tell us the results. How old is the battery?

You could try the Owners manual, under tyres. Failing that look up the tyre make & size, go to tyre makers website.

True this............. www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZDXYO_iOx8

When one talks about that sort of problem, I go first & have a good look at the tyres. Originally we had a Fabia Monte Carlo & that eat tyres. 4 in one year. Yes the noise was tyres. Turned out the chassis & suspension had a fault that Skoda knew about. In the end they loaned us a Yeti demonstrator 2L D, & from then on we were hooked. But after having 2 Yeti's over 11 years, we have moved on now to a Toyota.

I agree with you Dave, another Yeti would have been our choice of a new car. If only,..... a nice 1.5 petrol hybrid with a self charging battery that could take you 10-20 miles would have been great. Sadly, our 8 year old Yeti sold literally overnight & replaced with a Toyota Yaris Cross GR sport 130 Nice car, but it's not a Yeti. I kept my Marmite Yeti toy. He's not going anywhere.

Well for one, take out one or more wheel bolts and measure it, check to see if its been touching anything. (photo) Second, as I stated I have never come across a wheel bolt protruding so it hits the splashguard. To test the driveshaft CV joint, full lock & slowly drive forward. If you hear a steady clicking noise that could well be the joint. Tyr this again on the other lock. A good DIY tip, jack up car with both front wheels free. Full lock one side then the other. 1st gear at idle. Try & record it.

Hi Rob, maybe a picture might help here. As, I have never heard that before.

Isn't there a dim/brighten roller switch for the panel lights, try that???

Age has nothing to do with it. Only last week I got a new battery for a M/c & it was 11v delivered. Next day it was 10v. Not used. I fully charged it. Let it stand overnight & it was 10v again. Got it replaced foc. Dig out your receipt & give them a call.

Well of course it could be a Battery problem. Fully charge it & check voltage. Let in stand overnight. Then check voltage again. Let us know the readings.

First check the fuse. Then, remove switch & check voltage to switch. Turn on & check voltage out. If you don't have voltage out, replace switch. If all seems ok, then check voltage to the heated screen. Obviously with the ignition on.

This was my thought on first reading. So, check the water pipe from the top entry all the way down to the wiper motor. The Tail gate trim is easy to remove and gives you a good idea if you see any signs of water.

YETI Air rifle Plus, Rambler Cup, Vacuum Insulated Stainless. Steel Stackable Cup with Magslider Lid, Navy, 8

By any chance wouldn't be a battery problem?

They maybe a problem in the wiring loom, maybe through the tailgate feed wires, next to the hinges. You have one set each side. Peel back the rubber tube and check the wires aren't broken. www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMOFCk9AurM Arh, miss read your "fuse showed no voltage" As pikpilot suggested check connections & fuses.

Does it ever fail to start ? How are you testing it.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=-AeMbUl9gdU Don't worry about him talking, just watch the video.

And, if that doesn't cure it... Try spraying the Coil Springs with WD40 or WD40 silicon spray & let a little bit run down to the springs lower mounting plate.

Then next thing is get you fingers under the bonnet lip where it meets the grill. With a steady lift action, you pull the handle from inside.

Try having another person with you. Get them to bounce the bonnet with their hands as you pull the lever or cable. Sometimes they just get sticky from a lack of lub. When the bonnet is open, lub up the release & lock moving parts. WD40 or WD40 silicon spray.

Have you Named the new SD card?? It seems they need a directory, so give it a name.

Hi Lumi Then two things. First you will need to have a diagnostic check, to establish where the problem is. Normally a code reader gives a fault code in numbers. That you need to find out. Have you had the timing chain checked to see if it has been fitted incorrectly? Just one tooth out will cause all sorts of problems. It would be a good idea to sort out a repair garage who has a diagnostic code reader.

Lumi what do you mean by that? Is the Engine light on all the time?? If so, it will need diagnosing as to what fault is there. Time wise, was the Turbo replaced first, then the timing chain later???

Paul, I have always wired mine up in the fuse box, with a live only when the ignition is on. That way it won't drain the cars battery. If you want the camara on whilst parked up, I would suggest a battery bank. Just remove the cable from the satnav, and replace with the cable from the battery bank. You can then recharge the battery bank via your charge point below the radio. Maybe best to go back to Halfords and ask then to check it and maybe move it to ignition live only.