Carlodiesel

I would find a good reputable Local garage to do your servicing & repairs. After all the 1.2 Lt engine is dead easy to work on. 😄 Its just a glorified golf really. 😀

If your spare wheel is a Steel wheel, the saving of space is so little, as I would suppose you would have a compressor, jack & wheel brace instead..... Plus, you get the benefit & assurance of having a Spare if you ever get a puncture. ☺️

First, have you had the car battery tested?

Brian, Skoda Yeti, Roof Rail Bar End Cap for sale | eBay www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=Skoda+yeti%2C+roof+rail+bar+end+cap&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p4624852.m570.l1313

Feel for you my friend, try not to let it get you down. This is not what you want at this time. I can only hope your solicitor can sort the problem out for you and hopefully recover your cots. Best regards to you. Ray

Col, "I'll do this job my usual way; the hard way?" Just remember... when removing the springs...they have been compressed, & undoing the large nut holding then in place will release the spring rapidly. Make sure you compress them safely, then undo the nut. Always adjust the spring compressors evenly and slowly.

BILSTEIN Munroe or SACHS Also consider the coil springs at the same time. Check the Top strut mounts as well, they sometimes go graunchy. Often found on ebay at a better price. Always check for a better deal. If you do it yourself, you will need a spring compressor. Approx. £16pr

I can only comment on my 2017 model, & the rear speakers were most adequate. Plus you can adjust the music power up or down on front or rear speakers. So with good speakers, I found the sound system wasn't that bad at all.

bazrud, don't think about that till you have replaced the digitizer. Just a heads up, don't remove the old one. You just disconnect the ribbon cable & stick it out the way. Your new digitizer fits on top of the old one. Follow the instructions on the you-tube video. Regards R

Go back to the Link. When on the page, click the Translate button. www.digital-eliteboard.com/threads/neu-how-to-mib2-technisat-pq-00-00-06-28-uhrzeit-fix-0255-0369-0478-0480.542439/

barzud, Go onto YouTube & look for your radio to help identify. Then follow instructions, how to do it. www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bj1L6VDmkRU .Check this is your one? Then Go to ebay. Look up radio & get a new Digitizer screen. Cheap enough to do at home.

Quite possible. But, I have never let my tank go that low in 8 years of ownership. But if they say they will fix, go for it, as long as you road test it again. If its still there, then walk away until it's fixed.

BY, just thinking on..... Have you had the fuel injectors checked out. When cold, there needs a few seconds, (about 8-10 seconds) to activate & heat up before you start the engine. PS.. Next time, turn on ignition. Wait minimum of 8 seconds then start the engine.

Hi BY The fuel gauge started to mess about with it's readings. Then a couple of times the car took a time to start. As I couldn't hear the pump run. Dealer fitted new fuel pump, as they found a bad connection. That one gave up six months later. Same problem. If you are paying for it, it's not cheap, so you will want to know that it is faulty first.

If you say you are travelling, have you refitted it? As its very cold, that could mean it has become very stiff. Might be worth fitting a new hose in that case. It does look like it has come adrift & out of the metal clip that should hold it in position. Obviously I can't tell for sure, but it looks like the hose was not fully pushed into its position enough.

Have you had any maintenance on the car lately? Anyone lifted the bonnet? Other than that, try to refit it & check to see if it's a good tight fit. I had a 2L 2017 Diesel Yeti for eight years & never have I seen that happen.

Wouldn't be surprised if it is the fuel pump. I had two in my 2017 Yeti, fortunately both were under warranty. Other thing to check is, when was the fuel filter last changed? Easy job to do & not expensive. Get a Bosch one off ebay. .

Try here............. www.autodoc.co.uk or. LUK on ebay.co.uk Always worth a tele call to be 100% sure of the right part. Are you also fitting a new Clutch Kit? Highly recommended.

First impression Dozerman, is the battery fully charged?. Test standing voltage. Should be 12v plus, normally 12.8+ With the engine running, it should go up to 14.5V If you can do the test come back & tell us the results. How old is the battery?

You could try the Owners manual, under tyres. Failing that look up the tyre make & size, go to tyre makers website.

True this............. www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZDXYO_iOx8

When one talks about that sort of problem, I go first & have a good look at the tyres. Originally we had a Fabia Monte Carlo & that eat tyres. 4 in one year. Yes the noise was tyres. Turned out the chassis & suspension had a fault that Skoda knew about. In the end they loaned us a Yeti demonstrator 2L D, & from then on we were hooked. But after having 2 Yeti's over 11 years, we have moved on now to a Toyota.

I agree with you Dave, another Yeti would have been our choice of a new car. If only,..... a nice 1.5 petrol hybrid with a self charging battery that could take you 10-20 miles would have been great. Sadly, our 8 year old Yeti sold literally overnight & replaced with a Toyota Yaris Cross GR sport 130 Nice car, but it's not a Yeti. I kept my Marmite Yeti toy. He's not going anywhere.

Well for one, take out one or more wheel bolts and measure it, check to see if its been touching anything. (photo) Second, as I stated I have never come across a wheel bolt protruding so it hits the splashguard. To test the driveshaft CV joint, full lock & slowly drive forward. If you hear a steady clicking noise that could well be the joint. Tyr this again on the other lock. A good DIY tip, jack up car with both front wheels free. Full lock one side then the other. 1st gear at idle. Try & record it.

Hi Rob, maybe a picture might help here. As, I have never heard that before.