New Croatian VRS 236hp 19inches

[davojuri]

My Porsche GT3 6 pot calipers and 350 drilled discs with floating anodised black alu hats and EBC bluestuff NDX pads are shipped finally. In three separate packages to avoid any damages during transport.

Can't wait hehehe

[davojuri]

And this is how Octavia III VRS rear badges looks on my car heheh

and still thinking which one for the front grille??

rear one is nice but heavier to glue it to the mesh - letters are without backplate,

or new VRS front badge like on the pic, which is still not available

Edited 3 May, 2013 by davojuri

[davojuri]

So finally I've collected all my big brake upgrade parts

brake pada are EBC NDX Blue Stuff

mounting hardware

installation hardware

some new braided ss lines

some new connection lines:

This must be done in attempt to retain progressive order of pistons ie from smaller to bigger ones. On Porsche GT3 caliper sits behind the wheel and in Golf 4 platform in front of the wheel and if you only lide caliper arround the wheel you will have connection pipe at the top and breather walves at the bottom, that'sd whay not may companies sells it like a kit,otherwise you will have rattling in your brakes because bigger pistons are first in line and smallest at the end.

Vandit performance and mbt enginering sells kits like this.

That is the reason ECS tuning sells Cayenne 6pot ones not GT3s

[davojuri]

Discs are 350x34 original GT3 ones with anodised alu hat - two piece floating ones

[davojuri]

Only aftger I bought that kit I started thinkoing about required space-clearance for those calipers to sit freely. Nobody alks enough about that. But only www.Ultimot.de gavbe me the right info. And it says you need at least

65mm or even better 70mm clearance from disc friction surface to the inner edge of the wheel spokes.

At the moment with OEM brakes I habe 59mm and that is using 6mm spacers, I have another set of new 6mm, and 8mm new ones, and the garage where I did check it out to find which size os spacers will be needed had hubcentric 11mm ones. So first I found out that the hole on alu hat for small bolt to hold the disc isn't perfectly centered so we had to slightly enlarge it.

Than we mounted the discs and calipers (protected them with tape) and tried 11mm plus 3,5mm spacers, and decided to go for 15mm ones.

It will be done custom to fit inner whhel space withoujt that adapter ring, so if needed we can cut backside of spacer if it turns out it is to big.

wheel is being tkane for inside measurement fore the spacer to be used without that blue adapter ring

[davojuri]

So I really do not know how did people managed to do this and wheel still inside the wheel arch???!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[davojuri]

So how did they manage to do it without any special wheel protruding outside the wheel arch????

I found oin forums 10mm, 13.5mm spacers needed for RS4 upgrade.

On the pics they also dfon't have any crazy camber to accomodate this.

HOW???????????????????????????

I have -1,5minutes of camber, 6mm spacers on oe brakes and there is still only left arrounbd 2-3mm.

When I will put my new brakes and 155 spacers wheels will protrude outside wheel arch for more than 7-8mm!!!!

Ok I will try to compensxate this by enlarging the camber to way past -2, going from 225 to 215/35/19 tires.

But this will worn tires to fast on the street.

any suggestions pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee?????????????????????????????????????

forgot to mention I use TSW Catalunya 8x19 ET 35 wheels

Edited 30 May, 2013 by davojuri

[davojuri]

I also removed my catsh can to shorten the welded An conection so that thew braided lines from the block and valve cover will retain straight line-replaced for the moment with the yogurt plastic bottle hehehe, also did swap back from large to small port polished intake hehehe-for my setup best flowing one-smaller volume,but greater speed for standard small port head and quite small turbo K04-001

Edited 30 May, 2013 by davojuri

[davojuri]

So we made custom spacers 15mm thick that are intended for use with rims without adapter ring from inside.

Custom fit:

replaced old 6mm one with new one:

and here it is how it looks like:

finally we got the magic 65mm distance from the disc

we tested it on the lates Hawk Eye Elite device for wheel alignement

and with old spacers of 6mm it showed that additional 8-9mm can be added.

Great, and that all wit camber settings -1.3 to -1.4 so plenty more left to be increased if needed to put wheel behind wheel arch.

I wonted to test drive only with new spacers to see if there is increased bump steer but we had only 4 45mm bolts.

So I have to wait for few more days to finally put the brakes.

After test drive we will put calipers again to see exact clearance, if to big it can be narrowed by additional milling of the base of spacer. But wheel also flexes in corner so if it stays under the arch ok with me.

Edited 4 June, 2013 by davojuri

[davojuri]

I also bought some OEM Porsche brake grease to avoid squelling

[davojuri]

Got it running, finally

[davojuri]

And performed this procedure:

Brakes: Pagid Pads bedding-in directions

To ensure maximum performance and customer satisfaction, new brake pads must be bedded in upon installation. Correct bedding guarantees that new brake pads and new rotors work flawlessly together. In order to function optimally, organic brake pads must develop friction coal on its surface. This friction coal develops at a temperature of approximately 280°C (537°F). It is very important that this temperature is reached continuously and slowly. This gradual process generates temperatures that not only penetrate the surface of the brake discs and pads, but also distribute evenly through the whole disc and pad material. This is essential when using new brake discs, since the disc often shows signs of stress (due to the casting process and fast cooling) in the materials. A steady and careful warming and cooling process guarantees a good release of both materials.

The information below should be checked with packaged directions for your specific pad.

The bedding in/break in procedure should be done as follows:

• Drive at approx. 35 mph (60 kmh) for about 500 yards (solid front discs) to 800 yards (vented front discs) while slightly dragging the brakes (i.e. light brake pedal pressure). This process allows the brake temperature to slowly and evenly build up to 300°C (572°F).
  
• Now, if possible, drive about 2200 yards maintaining the same speed without braking. This will allow the pads and discs to cool down evenly. After this cool-down, perform a normal brake application from 35 mph to 0. No panic stops!
  
• Now, the friction surface has evenly developed friction coal, the pads have bonded with the disc surface, and tensions in the disc materials will have disappeared.
  
• Only trained master mechanics should perform this procedure before delivering the vehicle to its owner. Do not expect your customer to properly finish your brake job!
  
• This bedding process is only suitable for the front axle - not the rear. This is due to the brake force distribution of front and rear axles. In order to reach 300°C (527°F) on the rear pads you would have to drive several miles with dragging brakes. However, in that time the front brakes will be glowing red, overheating and thus destroying the front brakes.
  
• Final note – don’t forget to clean hubs and check the wheel bearings. Also, the brake fluid should be replaced at least every 2 years.
  

Src: Pagid USA.

WHEN I STOPPED TO PAY FOR THE HIGHWAY IT WAS SMOKING ALL AROUND HEHEHEH

Edited 15 June, 2013 by davojuri

[davojuri]

Installation pics, technical problems and solutions to come

[davojuri]

So

some news.

My old servo pump leaked so I did the servo preessure  line and one from the servo tank to the pump

 

 

with ASH fluorolined hoses and plastic elbow connectors

 

 

I decided to replace old  pump

 

 

with polished one

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I did also polsih the old bracket

 

 

 

and also air compressor:

 

 

alternator was polsihed already before but I messed it up and it went dull so I've sent it to to the polishing together with this belt tensioner:

 

 

 

and made new ruber inserts into the line with removable ends. Great job done by local company:

 

 

 

 

I also refreshed black metal lines with those

 

 

Edited 20 November, 2013 by davojuri

[davojuri]

Did also replace oil filter housing with polished one (was polished but went dull together with alternator and valve cover and intake-due to my fault, details next time)

 

and installed OEM oil tem sensor:

 

 

and VDO 10bar 1/8NPT oil pressure sensor

[davojuri]

Had also some coolant leek on three places

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As you can see thet line from the block to the under side of intake and all the way to the coolant tank I replaced that Mishimoto line from their coolant kit with ASH one which is much narrower to sit on that pipe thus less risk of leakage and ussed this Wurth to additionally seal all leaking places

Edited 20 November, 2013 by davojuri

[swedey]

Bling Bling baby!

Looks nice ...

[davojuri]

Also replaced brake lines that I've got in the brake kit:

 

 

because they were to short and were rubbing on to the spindle.

 

I meassured exactr needed lenght using old hoses:

 

 

and ordered them for the great price from

 

www.brakehose.it

 

 

[davojuri]

And preparing to go to my gearbox mechanic in Cacak Serbia to change first and second gear for 10kmh longer ones.

From 65 to 75 and from 95 to 105kmh.

Had to solve also selector problems-3rd and 4th gear shiftage can make trouble-hard to engage or disengage, he told me that it is due to the fact it's hybrid gearbox, from transporter and Golf V and "claw" (is that a correct translation) related problems and that they have sorted it out.

 

Can't wait to see it working as I expect.

 

Gearbox will be powdercoated from existing silver to blue RAL5002 like blue silicone hoses hehehehe

[davojuri]

Bling Bling baby!

Looks nice ...

Gives me better e......n

Edited 20 November, 2013 by davojuri

[Bowders1]

you my friend have far to much time and money on your hands.......

 

i am so jealous.

 

Love your attention to detail and that you don't always go tried and tested and the simple routes to things. And the fact you don't give up on some of the projects you get challenges on.

 

keep up the good work mate. 

[Scott_28]

Oh.....my.......god!!!

Absolutely amazing build!

Well done mate, looks awesome!

[davojuri]

Hi 

my trusty followers

I was buissy during this weekend and did some nice things like you can se on sneak preview

 

first and second gear together with reverse one was changed

 

details to come:

 

 

 

 

and this is the guy who did it

 

[missingmyvrs]

Your car is the pinnacle of awesomeness

Well done would love to meet you and your car

[BossFox]

Colour coded gearbox = Class.