It ended up like this:

Edited 30 January, 201313 yr by davojuri

So all the hoses alre completed-coolant ones, vacum lines, breather ones......

now to the oil cooler lines and connection to the Mocal sandwich thermostatic plate

like this

I rerouted that installation to free space for aftermarket senders and fixed it with adel clamp

Edited 30 January, 201313 yr by davojuri

Now its tim,e for the fulel lines, fuel rail polished with An6 adapters, and FPR gaude

I polished fuel rail and got some AN6 connections for flare conection and tube connection, and also hose finishers

Height stimulation

front one is ok, rerar one will be to high, that's why I took also that simple hose ends in case that one can't be used

I tried and mounted one quick connection-silver one and simply can't remove it, because it wasobvious that rear one can't be the same and that we decided to go with both same ones-plane finishers.

Tried to remove it and had to break it and than

I decided to open that plastic cover that holds that three tubes and sow that they can be mixed in order two fuel lines and one vacum line, I moved fuel lines in front and moved vacum line in the back so after I get neq qucik conenction I will put there also new ones

finally all the lines as I wanted and even more....

now remaining items:

coils with new powder coated springs, camber plates with new Oring seal , greased with WurthHHS and Mobil!

New right spindle

New brake lines

New clutch braided SS line

New powdercoated dog bone with new poly front bush

powder coated LCA with new Moog ball joints and Superpro castor bushings

New cnc baffled sump and connection to it

UR rear lower stru etc...

See you tomorrow

New USP braided clutch line

Dog Bone upgrade.

I already had yellow rear insert from blackforrestindustries

BFI MK4 Stage 1 Dogbone Insert

http://store.blackforestindustries.com/bfist1doin.html

but I wonted it powdercoated like ecstuning one

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Dogbone/ES5669/

or RAImotorsport

http://www.raimotorsport.com/Performance-Dogbone-Mount-p/rai-pdb-0001.htm

but they both have retained OE front bush.

I wonted it to be completelly upgraded so I purchased

Powerflex PFF85-505

[/size]

So it went like this

after powdercoating

Awesome car and build mate.

Attention to detail is second to none.

Awesome car and build mate.

Attention to detail is second to none.

I'm glad you and other noticed it. That's main reason why am I putting all this pics here. Wanted to share my passion for details hehehe

Now to subframe, control arms, Superpro castor bushings, Tyrolsport solid subframe bushings, new right spindle and coils with camber plate

Before powdercoating

Subframe bushings pressed out

LCA bushings pressed out

note on rear ones signs of pression because they are flat all the way, no elevated pivot point like new Superpro

After powdercoating here:

http://www.plastifikacija.com/gallery/Auto-moto/index.html

preparing for solid subframe bushing installation

Everything nice and easy BUT when tried to fix left LCA we found out that the inner nut for front bushing has felt of and has to be rewelded-meaning-cutting, welding the nut and than welding the subframe and again powdercoating. It was late in the night last saturday. Ony Sunday we did welding like here:

Points marked

some cutting like here

welding the nut

Closing the oppening

finishing for powdercoating

and early in the morning 7am I went to the powdercoat store to coat it again-many thanks that you took me over the line and removed big customer to make me a favour so I can install it the same day-monday-minimal time loss. Thanks to both Igor!!!!!!!!

Not perfect but corrected with minimal downtime

and now LCA and castor bushings

Here is the schematic diagram how to put it right

But in order to be most precise you need to put subframe on the ground and put both lca in to the positions, because LCA transversal axis is not vertical to its longitudinal ones, tey are little moved tovard freont.So you need to mark middle of the rear oppening in the subframe than mark middle of the rear oppening in the lca's, on both sides, mark middle of the bushings when placed like on schematic drowing and now you have merks for pressing them correctly down to the lca. It was the way I tought most accutrate is.

I also replaced ball joints for Moog ones, but did use new OEM nuts , also all the bolts for subframe and lca were new, but I first installed old ones and while geometry was adjusted on Howk Eye Elite we replaced them

There is also one other possibilities to go for Whiteline ones, but I didn't go this route, because excentric holke is in metal-maybe to ww+eek on one side not in bushing

Edited 2 February, 201313 yr by davojuri

And now coils and camber plate.

I have D2racing coils mode Track Racing, 13 kg front 9.5kg rear ones and ground Control camber plates.

Springs were black:

so I went for racing red to pair it with neuspeed anti sway bars front and rear

Now to subframe, control arms, Superpro castor bushings, Tyrolsport solid subframe bushings, new right spindle and coils with camber plate

Before powdercoating

Subframe bushings pressed out

and here are TT or R32 ones-they are two piece design with much less rubber

OE ones are 1 piece with lot of rubber

and here are solid ones

LCA bushings pressed out

note on rear ones signs of pression because they are flat all the way, no elevated pivot point like new Superpro

After powdercoating here:

http://www.plastifik...moto/index.html

preparing for solid subframe bushing installation

Edited 2 February, 201313 yr by davojuri

And now how did I assemble coils and camber plates

D2 reccommends to greas them every 3months to avoid that "Qdoing doing" sound by turning wheels in place. It makes me crazy.

For the metal and plastic rings above and belove springs I ussed Wurth HHS as reccommended by dealer in Croatia

and for camber plate Mobil 1 grease I got specs from Forge Motorsport UK

I ussed additional metal ring above plasric one on the top of the spring bellow camber plate (in D2 drowing there is noine)

like here it was before

parts here

Edited 3 February, 201313 yr by davojuri

Coil assembly

Firts metal ring

than plastic ring

second metal ring

Springs and above it again metal/plastic/metal ring (I added that last one)

otherwise like here:metal ring, plastic ring and camber plate on top

and camber plate sitting on metal ring instead on plastic one like pictured above

Camber plate parts in order to install

Had to replace that O ring on one side

Final result

>few words regarding camber plates.

I did quite a research and up to me Ground control ones are the best

http://www.ground-co...tion.php?II=653

KW makes them also in Clubsport 2 way adjustment one (from Seat Leon Cupra R) but verry little feedback on them

There are also H2sport ones

http://www.h2sport.c...s/sport-camber/

http://www.flickr.co...157629956523671

http://www.flickr.co...157629956523671

http://www.flickr.co...157629956523671

http://www.flickr.co...157629956523671

Mujst say temptiong one to try

compared to their first version

http://forums.vwvort...ead.php?4440039

http://forums.fourti...ead.php?4871294

Have also their sport spindles, before I went for TT ones.

Here is nice comparing thread among GC and H2S

http://forums.vwvort...t-Camber-Plates

Had also Kmac stage 2 camber plates- b..l s..t

Edited 3 February, 201313 yr by davojuri

Now some customization of GC plates

Like first they offer it in few diameters for springs:

1. stock spring ID

2. 2 1/4"

3. 2 1/2"

4. 60mm

due to the fact that my springs have 62MM ID I went for smaller diameter so I can upgrade to a bigger one very ease-I cnc-ed few 1mm rings and I got exact 62mm diameter like here:

much easier than to mill it for smaller dimenssion

There is also another upgrade of mine.

They reccomendded using this nut:

and I found it not good enough by limitting bigger castor/camber increase.

So I went for Golf 2 one likke on the picture bellow- first below to the rings

That is the tiniest nut with biggest adjustment range.

By geometry adjustment together with TT lca I can easilly get -3 camber!!!!!!!

THAST'S ALL FOR TODAY, HOPE YOU LIKED IT GUYS :rofl:

Edited 3 February, 201313 yr by davojuri

note on rear ones signs of pression because they are flat all the way, no elevated pivot point like new Superpro

Any idea how many km's you got out of the old superpro's ?

I think my gen1 castor correctors are in similar state to your old rear bushes after < 10,000mi/16,000km

Had also Kmac stage 2 camber plates- b..l s..t

I hear these introduce bump steer

Looking forward to seeing details of GC fitment to turret

Any idea how many km's you got out of the old superpro's ?

I think my gen1 castor correctors are in similar state to your old rear bushes after < 10,000mi/16,000km

These are Powerflex which I tought are the best before I sow other doing the same or better job.

They must had 30000km, but up to me it doesn't matter, because Powerflex are flat all the way on top and bottom, and Super pro have small elevatet conical rings that allows free LCA pivoting, what can be clearly seen on my pics-that is the main difference.

I hear these introduce bump steer

KMac deformed very quickly on ra<cetrack near my home where I used to drive (after this install and paint job no more-cheaper is to rent Grandfe punto or clio sport and no worry).

And they were not precise as they should in alignement and fixation the desired position. Special bump steer didn't notice

Looking forward to seeing details of GC fitment to turret

Edited 3 February, 201313 yr by davojuri

Super pro have small elevatet conical rings that allows free LCA pivoting

gen 1 superpro were flat

The extra bit of molding was a design change about 1yr ago due to excessive wear issues with the gen1

gen 1 superpro were flat

The extra bit of molding was a design change about 1yr ago due to excessive wear issues with the gen1

That's has sense-great upgrade and not only by conical rings but the hole for metal shaft is conical to on both side so the shaft touches it only in the middle and can pivot with its end sides as seen here

Edited 3 February, 201313 yr by davojuri

Did replace right spindle to.

I compared it to old one on the car

http://s537.beta.photobucket.com/user/davojuri/media/IMAG1433_zps8f94e028.jpg.html?sort=3&o=913

and we measured 4mm differences in positions what has been recorded before while wheel alignement.

o I bought spare one and did prepare it for bigger A4 bearings which have double inside measure like here:

that way it can sustain greater axial load, especially on the track

O fourse wheel hub has to be addapted to

bearing beeing pressed out

damaged after

old vs new powder coated one

new bearing pressed in

and wheel hub to

Did replace also old brake hoses because they were to short and had to run them inside coil strut-was rubbing against spindle. Had it rubber protected but was anxious all the time.

So 10 y ago I have put ones we made in Zagreb in Croatia in VEP Hidraulika but they didn't have that small slide for secure clip on connection to the fender as seen here

Than I replaced it with ones made by

Brake Hose Production from Itally.

Great service and quality, but first ones were to short so I ordered longer one-all can be custom done there (set of 4 was 75eur)

http://www.brakehose.it/eng_news.htm

older short ones

new longer ones

right connections

Bleeded with Mintex racxing fluid

Wheel alignement was done on the most accurate device Hawk Eye Elite

All new bolts for front and rear subframe and LCA ptoperly torqued (70 and 100Nm plus 90 degree turn)

and while I was there we did instal this beauty to:

Edited 7 February, 201313 yr by davojuri

had to made some space on rear left side