polsished cnc baffled sump to come ant that is it for the moment. Will update Global 20 Green window tint to.

Just in a process of ordering

PORSCHE GT3 996 6POT CALIPERS, AND PORSCHE FLOATING TWO PIECES 350X34MM DRILLED DICS WITH ALU HAT

It is hard to find and those who is selling it are owerpriced and they warn you about rattling etc.

MBT engineering offers kit for 3650 euro

but they didn't convert the caliper to have bleeders on upper side and connection pipe on lower side of it-MOST IMPORTANT TO HAVE PROGRESSIVE PISTONS LINED FROM THE SMALLEST TO THE BIGGEST IN DIRRECTON OF ROTATION.

Than I went ower internet and found http://www.ultimot.de/

They offered me that kit but on 365x34mm discs usually ussed for RS4 calipers that are not so wide as GT3 ones.

Susspicious I was. They have great RS4 365x34mm kit for 2473 eur

what was my second option , and also Cayenne one for 2203 eur what is the same price as ECS tuning stage V.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-FWD-180HP/Braking/ECS_Stage_5/

But I wanted GT3 calipers-maybe the best on the market.

I discovered this site:

http://vandit-performance.de/vw/golf-4/350-x-34-mm-6-kolben-bremsanlage-fur-golf-4/

this kit is 1400 eur, but the centre hat will be black anodised aluminium, floating round bobins (200 eur more for T/H type ones)

900 euro for a set of new GT3 calipers with remanufactured new connection line as here:

of course I will ask for more accurate corners and rubber protection like on OE ones:

here on profile pic you see it cant be only switched with bleeding valve it has to be shorter and not bent.

installation kit included

and he is offering RS14 BLACK OR RS29 YELLOW PAGIDS, BUT THEY DO NOT NITE FROM COLD LIKE NEW EBC BLUESTUFF NDX DOES FROM 0-900C DEGREE

and found them for really good price here

http://www.bremsstaubfrei.de/start.php4?&page=artikel&Shop=1&DetailsOn=EBC116060#EBC116060

CAN'T WAIT TO GET IT AND TEST IT HEHEHE

Also will add some air vents to the brakes like this ones:

Edited 7 March, 201313 yr by davojuri

Hi

for all Octy 1 owners finally good news.

I picked up today NEW FABIA BADGE FROM FEBRUAR 2013, and did try it without sticking the adhesive tape

1. IT FITS PERFECTLY IN FRONT GRILE

2. IT FITS PERFECTLY AT THE TRUNK AND CAN BE CENTERED.

Obviously it is smaller than new badge from Octy II

I first checked in ETKA if Fabia has the same front and rear>:YES,

Than I checked if Fabia had the same size like Octy I: YES.

Than I ordered one and today after testing it on the car i oredered second one to have whole kit.

Pics and part number from box to came when uploaded to photobucket.

Just wonted to share this info.

Big one!!!!!

Some new turbo outlet pipes are here from verdict motrosport

There creation motor sport ones !!

Yes, and this came from them to:

together with this 76/63mm coupler to preserve old Forge one if going back

or as a whole kit

alu option

But for going back to 60mm TB only reducer should be replaced for straight 63mm coupler I already have-

I will go for two maps, one for S4 70mmTB,70mm adapter plate and 70mm intake, other for std 60mmTB, and bored 70mm intake, and will see in daily driving which is best. Haven't made map yet for S4TB so far it is worse than on std 60mmTB.

Edited 10 March, 201313 yr by davojuri

Can't wait to get this beautiessss 350x34mm Porsche floating ones

but with alu black anodised centre hat

and some GT3 6pots

Only thing is that I haven't find any MC upgrade from whole VAG group.

Dissapointing.

Especially due to the fact LCR MK! fuel pump 8L0 919 051H 4 bar, as in my car is the VERY SAME AS IN LAMBORGINI GALLARDO, WHO WOULD EXPECT SUCH A THING. SO MAYBE I WILL HAVE TO LOOK INTO THE OLDER MODELS LIKE G60 OR VR6.

ANY HELP APPRECIATED. MAKES ME CRAZY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Edited 10 March, 201313 yr by davojuri

And boost pipe in place as promissed:

BUT I NEED THAT REFLECTIVE COVER FOR IT, MINE IS BROKEN.

ANY HELP WITH THAT

PART NUMBER O6A 145 867 F,M,E,Q ...

also changed that 3 1/8 NPT plugs because of leak for the hex head ones with cooper seal:

left other two at the oil cooler but tighten them more with OC Three PTFE paste and now not any leak from oil system-that made me crazy, and oil did split over polished sump and matted it out. So again by oil change taking it of and polishing-crazy meeee

I wonted to upgrade rear muffler bushing and measiured the holder.

It was 12mm so I bought a set of two polly ones like here:

but when I tried to install them I sow that there is fixed metal upper part that can't be remowed and that made me sad

lucky for me my friend and mechanic who runs warestore of Porsche Interauto and now all the cross references between makes and models pulled this beauty out of somewhere and solved problem better than I expected:

So it is perfect fit, stronger and more durable than our OE, and no need for polly ones.

On the pics you can see part number 1H0 253 147B SK

It is from new Polo!!!!

Hope this helps ;-)

Edited 3 April, 201313 yr by davojuri

My PAS was leaking so I decided to change it. First I was after 100 bar R32 ones, but thanks to the Billy and common sense I stayed by 90bar because for strong and sporty car I prefeer tighter feel on steering wheel not to smooth like pussy ones. So I bought replacement working one and replaced it:

and also belt tensioner

After it I will weld AN bung to that poump to put braided SS line which will connect it to these polished PAS baffled tank:

http://btc-direct.com/new.asp

žto which I will also weld An bung.

But hey guys from UK I can'0t get thorugh to these guys via mail, help needed to contact them!!!!!

this is mission immpossible

http://btc-direct.com/contact.asp

General enquiries: [email protected] Custom design: [email protected]

I am also thinking about that polished coolant tank

Edited 3 April, 201313 yr by davojuri

And last one for today.

Several year ago I bought polished lightweight underdrive pulley set from

http://www.ecstuning...Pulleys/ES3985/

Then I found that Fluidampr crank pulley like something very needed by stronger cars and single mass flkywheel like I have

http://uspmotorsport...Damper1.8T.html

so I bought one

but while installing it we found that OE belt can't be reused in this size 6PDK 1195mm because PAS and alternator pulley are underdrive-bigger!!!!

I was crazy because I wonted to keep them.

Here you can see underdrive crank pulley and Fluidampr

so we tried to find appropriate belt, according to our measurements it should be 1235-1255mm, and I asked for it to be found and in mean time I bought OE like lightweight PAS pulley from ecs again:

and while it was traveling from USA we went back to old underdrive crank pulley.

Finally my friends who have store found this one:

Continental 6PDK 1237mm and I took both to see which one will fit

In the mean time I contacted integrated engeneering and first they told me that thgey are in process of sourcing proper belt.

But I was the winner

6PDK1237 was the winner

as you can see here and I kept underdrive PAS and alternator ones

I shared that info with www.intengineering.com

and here is their answer:

Thanks Davor,

That is much appreciated! That belt is not very easy to find in the US

though. I will see what we can come up with. For now, we are not going to

sell the underdrive pulley.

Cheers,

Cassidy Williams

Integrated Engineering

http://www.intengineering.com

Poor Americans hehehe.

Edited 3 April, 201313 yr by davojuri

And for the end Gates racing T306RB racing timing belt:

I decided to refresh my front grille mesh which started to loose paint.

So I prepared it with adhesive tape and sprayed in 5-7 or more layers of matt black paint from Wurth:

letting it to dry 30 or more minutes.

Than I decide to apply Duplicolor cars rallye klarlak glossy also in 6-7 or more layer also letting it to dry 30 or more mins between each pass.

It turned nice glossy, not to much as I was afraid of and here you can see but not perfectly as in real world-hard to do from pics only:

compared to old one:

hope you like it

..

Edited 7 April, 201313 yr by davojuri

.

Edited 7 April, 201313 yr by davojuri

So I finally got those handbrake springs. I looked for the solution becausae during registration and technical check kI was told that rear left one doesn't return in full, than I found this beauties.

So here is how it looks like:

Let me update my thread with finally I hope finished story with INA baffled sump.

First I sow it like this:

and I decided to buy it from Issam.

despite the fact I waited it for several months and had to argue with him I finally got it:

Was very happy and couldn't wait to put it on.

But during preparation for installation I found his design quite not consistent in details what It should be:

Look at the oil return hole:

on the sumnp:

diagonally from the sump to the shaft!!!Like one I've got

Horisontaly upward-ONLY CORRECT POSITION!!! TO AVOID ANY CONTACT WITH SHAFT!!!

This is how it was before I changed angle:

I even measured it the threaded hole should be 22-24mm from the outer edge of the flange

or here

So I first decidet to change that angel from oil return line and found one of my patients that I had operated and aksed him to do this and he said ok doc no probs.

He was finished thge same day and when I sow what he did I wanted to kill him.

He couldn't gert arround that pipe so he did cut the flange and welded it back when he finished with the angle change on the pipe.

So what should I say-IDIOT!!!

But life goes on.

Than I decided to polish some stuff like here:

Installation went straight forward

while protected with clear kitchen film

or shinny look:

than I started to play with straight, 45 degree and 90 degree fittings for oil return line and Issams adapter for it on turbo.

And problems just started:MISSION IMMPOSSIBBLE

TO BE CONTINUED TOMORROW

Edited 25 April, 201313 yr by davojuri

i used the springs and did help i just change em every couple of years incase they get weak p.s nice work

I had to use NPT/AN adapter with O ring

than 10 AN male female with side NPT port for 034motorsport oil catch can with oil return line:

and than I have to connect turbo oil return flange to that adapter:

first that flange alone can't be ussed on turbo because there is not enough space to tighten An adapter!!!

So we made another adapter flange to sit underneath INA's one, but than with 90degree An adapter and another on the sump it can't be connected because they are not in line, turbo one is below top point of the An adapter comming from sump no matter if you use 45 or 90 degree one

:

SO I found one old but functional oil return line and decided to use its part on the turbo and to myke OEM like hose connection on that side to make it sit higher to accomodate it to easilly connect to sump adapter:

I made that connection in Hydraflex company.

Now you see the difference in height between one I've got from Issam and this one:

So turbo part is solved in height and possibility to tighten An adapter without hitting turbo housing.

Now only sump part left so I played with )= and 45 degree An adapters and found this to be the best:

I ussed Goodridge heat protection sleeve:

Now I hat to connect oil return line from Javad's catch can.

Firt I did bigger port oppening por 8mm nitrile hose at the bottom because old one was holding to much oil in the can so it did occasionally split it out on the breather filter on the top:

Edited 26 April, 201313 yr by davojuri

I decided to fix that hose not to be left loose and to float arround so I drilled a hole here:

and ussed this zip tie with fixating point to hold it in place:

did put custom made NPT adapter in place

and secured it as on the catch can wit

measured the distance for cutting:

protected it also with Goodridge AN12 heat protection sleeve

But when we started engine there was oil leak arround adapter plate for sensores. It has 3 1/8NPT ports and they leaked. I replaced all those NPT plugs with new one and flattened base so I can put cooper washer beneath it and leak was over, but it did some damage:polished oil filter housing, Mocal thermostatic adapter plate and sump-they weent dull.

I was crazy!!!!

Than more important I noticed some small leak on that pipe where I did change angle for oil return. I did put some gearbox sealant butt it leaked againg.

Asked for on car welding with argon but they told me it has to be completely clean and free to be welded because small hole only becomes bigger when welding.

So I remowed the sump to weld that thing and GUES WHAT I HAVE FOUND????????

So I replaced these

with these

but surprise was this!!!!!!

the rod did hiot the horisontal sump plate and damaged it like here:

If someone is doing this for living how can it happen. That means he did never remove installed sump and didn't noticed design failure.

The plate simply has to be turned arround, meaning that holes should not be pressed upward but downward!!!

I as a stupid surgeon has to make solution for this.

We did rework this hole-enlarged and smoothened it:

rewelded that hole on the neck of oil return pipe

and mounted it back.

Of course I did use this for repolishing the saump hehehe

and now hiotting to the garage toi start it for the first time after I left it to dry sealant for over a 12 hours, and putted oil in it yesterday.

Will be replacing old bad polishged large port for good polished small port also port matched from 60 to 70mm for S4 tb, but I also went back to OEM 60mm TB because of better response and elasticity.

To be continued......................

No oil leak hehehe happy as a New Year, and sump looking good again duje to the repolishing hehehe

Today I picked up these beauties:

1. for the key:

2. new VRS for the rear and above side repeaters on the fender:

they will replace old ones:

and still not sure if to take the same as mentioned fo rthe grille or as on FL Octy2 with bolts??

Asked for it to but still not available, only rear new badge can be bought at the time.

Edited 29 April, 201313 yr by davojuri