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vrs front camber


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can anyone tell me if the camber can be adjusted on a mk1 octy vrs both my front tyres are badly warn on the inside edges again!!!! i had the tracking done 5 months ago and i have checked he tyre pressures religiously every week since but they have still worn. its seems now that it can only be the camber ,the tyres have been on for nearly 2 yrs falken FK452's which is good!!!! the first tred bloc on the inside edge's are down to less than 1mm the rest is at least 3mm is this normal

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I'll speak to the garage tomorrow and get them to check the bushes i'll try and speak to skoda too as it might just be the way they are. its not too bad but if they wore evenly i would have got about another 6 months out of my tyres i had a set of proxies on before the falkens with the same result so its not the tyres either

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not sure if this was the correct way to do it diy but i just checked the camber using a spirit level and 2 blocks of wood.i put the level top to bottom on the wheel using blocks of the same width to bring it away from the tyre and it showed the bubble touching the line on the osf and just over on the nsf both negative camber( top of wheel tilted in ) not very accurate I'm sure but I think it gives me an idea ,so that says to me they should both be in the middle( ish ) so my camber is out!!!!

which bushes are going to be the main culprits? and the usual how easy/ were from and how much lol!!!! ? will wait till after my trip to the garage tomorrow to confirm before i start buying stuff though

Edited by funkymonkey
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The front subframe can throw the camber out if it has been removed(i.e steering rack change) and has not been put back correctly, there is only a small amount of play in it but enough to upset camber settings.

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nope not been lowered its totally standard

Where are you based? Who did you use so far for alignment?

There are ways to align your car properly. Those cars aint that hard to do it. Its just need someone who know what to do. If you have a negetve camber that is not the end of world. To compensate you need more positive toe - simple as... That way your tyre has contact with road surface on full tread patern. Just need right emount acording to your problem.

Edited by allias
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The front subframe can throw the camber out if it has been removed(i.e steering rack change) and has not been put back correctly, there is only a small amount of play in it but enough to upset camber settings.

That's true, but a misaligned subframe goes on "off-centre", so you get excess camber on one wheel, and insufficient camber on the other, so you won't get excess wear on both inside edges.

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The camber isn't adjustable, and you can't even buy cambolts for the Octy stubs.

Get the camber angle checked, and also get the wishbone bushes checked.

You can adjust the camber using these SPC top mount alignment. Eibach sell them. According to the site they give +-1 deg of camber and +-1 deg of castor adjustment...

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That's true, but a misaligned subframe goes on "off-centre", so you get excess camber on one wheel, and insufficient camber on the other, so you won't get excess wear on both inside edges.

That is correct as long you not toe-out at the same time because then you will get inside wear nomatter what and you have to look for all areas that can create your pull/wear/other issues.

There is perfect example in this thread: http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/216347-fix-for-pulling-to-left/page__p__2547524__hl__left+pull__fromsearch__1#entry2547524

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spoke to the mechanic who did my mot today and he said it can be adjusted by adjusting the bottom of the suspension strut or the bottom ball joint mounting i'm gonna take it to ATS next month and they will check it for a tenner if it needs adjusting the can do it for 60 quid ish

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I need some place to get my front subframe and rear beam sorted correctly, where up Leeds Huddersfield way is good and does it properly?

Speak to ALlias also known as Piotr, I use these guys and highly recommend .

These guys know their stuff, trust me my car felt like a new after these guys got their hands on it.

Edited by broadyvrs
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spoke to the mechanic who did my mot today and he said it can be adjusted by adjusting the bottom of the suspension strut or the bottom ball joint mounting i'm gonna take it to ATS next month and they will check it for a tenner if it needs adjusting the can do it for 60 quid ish

Nope, single pinch bolt at the bottom on the strut and the holes are round in the wishbone for the bottom ball joint so no adjustment.

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No individual adjustment, but if spread is to big then move cradle to make it even camber on each side. Even a lot negetive camber is not as bad if you can correct it with positive toe. It needs smart adjustment of full suspension.

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Hmm, I thought the camber WAS adjustable on early octavia's???

How old is the car in question?

It can be on the Octy, why are folks saying it can't??

Few on here have fabias not sure about those but if talking about Octy then yes it can.

The 3 bolts at the bottom on the strut/hub asm that are part of the ball joint allow for this. Did mine many times.

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Agreed with Mark, the adj is minimal tho but still worth it.

The subframe holes are round too but there is a few mm play there to get it spot on. All makes a diff.

Think I might have to pop n see you mate ref alignment.

Billy

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