My new VRS gets very badly condensated in the cold mornings and I mean soaking wet. Takes me a good 10 minutes before I can drive off

Somone said if I switch aircon on full, on windscreen setting and press the re-circulation button it should clear within a couple of minutes .... but it doesn't. Any advice please

Bought one of these last November.

http://www.easylifegroup.com/eco-car-dehumidifier-3770

I have it on the transmission tunnel behind the front seats - never had any condensation until last week - but a weekend on the radiator (or apparently a few mins in the microwave) and its good as new!

That's strange. Get some misting up sometimes but never really bad.

Normally I just turn economy mode off on climate and run it light that for a bit. Make sure you use the A/C at regular intervals even when its not hot as that can help keep the car dry.

Phil

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My new VRS gets very badly condensated in the cold mornings and I mean soaking wet. Takes me a good 10 minutes before I can drive off

Somone said if I switch aircon on full, on windscreen setting and press the re-circulation button it should clear within a couple of minutes .... but it doesn't. Any advice please

Sounds like you have water in the car somewhere or a leaking washer pipe or window seal.

What he said /\

I have a leaky door seal and my car is a bugger for misting up

Welcome to Octavia ownership, a common problem, especially at this time of year as the temperatures start to drop.

Use the search function and you'll find plenty of bedtime reading!

Although the Octavia is a damp car by design there are also some known issues that can contribute:

- Door seals (squeeze them to see if they are full of water)

- Pollen filter (easily accessible above the passengers feet)

- Leaking rear washer pipe (check spare wheel well and around the CD multichanger for puddles)

- Lots of short journeys preventing a good warm up of the interior.

Just wait until it snows and the mats get saturated so that the condensation gets so bad it runs down the inside of the windscreen. It's one thing scraping ice of the outside but it's a right royal pain when you have to do both sides of the glass!

How a car can be "damp by design" is bit beyond me.

HJ reports "rainwater collects in the bottoms of the doors of the 2010 model, which have a different draining arrangement from the earlier cars"

In that case a service bulletin has probably been issued. You should report the problem to your dealer under warranty.

Door/window regulator seals (i.e. under the door card) are a constant problem for skoda, again changeable under warranty.

Pollen filter??

See other threads on this subject.

Dave

I agree - on a 2011 car you need to get this back to the dealer under warranty.

The most I get is some slight fogging on the inside, which clears in a minute or so.

I live halfway up the western facing side of the Pennines, one of the wetter areas of the UK, hence why all the mills were built round here............

Bought one of these last November.

http://www.easylifegroup.com/eco-car-dehumidifier-3770

I have it on the transmission tunnel behind the front seats - never had any condensation until last week - but a weekend on the radiator (or apparently a few mins in the microwave) and its good as new!

Thanks for that link - very good - I didn't realise such things existed as a renewable water absorber; great stuff. Very useful for when the car starts getting wet mats and wet apparel in the boot overnight.

How a car can be "damp by design" is bit beyond me.

You've answered your own question...

Door/window regulator seals (i.e. under the door card) are a constant problem for Skoda.

There are many, many different threads on this, several members have been through the same time consuming and expensive journey of replacing seals, filters, pipes etc. to no avail.

All cars suffer from a little condensation from time to time but the Octavia for some reason is simply more susceptible.

I only get a bit in mine.

I have some small packs of Silica gel on my parcel shelf ( the sort you get packed with electrical goods) because my tailgate is up and down a lot in all weathers and gets run off into the boot area.

I use the Aircon / Climate all year round as if you dont it can cause problems but it really clears the screen in no time for me.

lots of bs in this thread, the octy is based on the mk5 golf. there will always be misting up issues on any car if theres leaks or blocked drainage holes.

get it back to dealer, no misting up in my car, rarly need to use ac.

when you open the doors after washing, water drains a liitle. HJ is full of accurates, its not a problem more a quirk.

lots of bs in this thread, the octy is based on the mk5 golf. there will always be misting up issues on any car if theres leaks or blocked drainage holes.

get it back to dealer, no misting up in my car, rarly need to use ac.

when you open the doors after washing, water drains a liitle. HJ is full of accurates, its not a problem more a quirk.

BS ? Condensation is caused by water evaporating and then striking a cold surface.

All the thread contributors have alluded to is causes of this dampness, which, when the sun comes up evaporates and then condenses on the windows.

It’s the same in all vehicles and all houses

Locating the source of the moisture is what people were trying to achieve; taking a car back to the dealer because of damp floor mats or roll of wet clothes in the boot is pointless.

Really; is that the best advice you can give ? 'thread is BS, Take to Dealer - I've not had any issue' 'ner'

Surely some simple and good advice would be to ensure that before engaging full recirculated AC, the inside of the car is in equilibrium with the outside- open all the windows, wash air through the car, then start the AC blast.

If the condensation is so thick as to constitute several 10’s of ml of water, then a quick scrape of the windows is a must, otherwise it’s unfair on the AC.

Locating the damp bit, or moisture ingress must be your ultimate goal; check for wetness everywhere or have the car on full heat & AC for a few good journeys to dry out the interior. Or get a vapour gadget like above.

Think about it – a pint of water (Or a 500ml babies bottle of juice) dropped and soaked in will have to eventually go somewhere – this will ONLY happen when it can evaporate and condense. And that is a LOT of moisture.

It’s far more likely therefore for the issue to be caused by stagnation of fluids than anything else. Assuming of course, that eventually, the AC dries everything out. Your AC could be FUBAR, of course.

I run AC year round, for the simple reason it dry’s the air, dry’s the car and costs less than having the windows open.

So, in summary, before hypothesising and wondering what “HJ is full of accurates†means, dry out the car, fully and properly and then never turn off your AC.

My 2p.

Locating the source of the moisture is what people were trying to achieve; taking a car back to the dealer because of damp floor mats or roll of wet clothes in the boot is pointless.

Really; is that the best advice you can give ? 'thread is BS, Take to Dealer - I've not had any issue' 'ner'

Surely some simple and good advice would be to ensure that before engaging full recirculated AC, the inside of the car is in equilibrium with the outside- open all the windows, wash air through the car, then start the AC blast.

Sorry but this thread is BS.

A brand new car with a leaking door seal is a job for the dealer to sort out.

Or maybe some of you would rather drive around in a car with soggy floormats.

Damp by design - what a load of twaddle.

Sorry but this thread is BS.

A brand new car with a leaking door seal is a job for the dealer to sort out.

Or maybe some of you would rather drive around in a car with soggy floormats.

Damp by design - what a load of twaddle.

Trouble is that taking the car to the dealer is not the same thing as solving the problem. It is a fine course of action for some fault you can point a finger at of course but becomes more difficult when trying to show something that only happens some mornings to a cold car.

The old 2005 Fabia VRS gets this problem, so aim heater direction to the floor at the end of day, set heater control at cold.

Doesn't totally keep it clear but significantly can see the difference if i don't carry-out above operations.

A brand new car with a leaking door seal is a job for the dealer to sort out.

Or maybe some of you would rather drive around in a car with soggy floormats.

Damp by design - what a load of twaddle.

How do you know it's a leaking door seal? Surely on a brand new car, it is far more likely that the car has simply been sitting around so long that damp has settled in and needs drying out ?

If the car has sat for a few months, especially with the wet n very warm weather we had over the summer, it is more likely that damp air was 'sucked' in when the car interior warmed and cooled during the day night cycle. Cars are not and should not be air tight.

Cars are not and should not be air tight.

Mate your digging yourself a hole, modern cars are pretty well sealed, they have to be for the AC to work and to keep noise down. If you look in the boot well and around rear windows, you'll see one way air vents to allow air to escape out the rear. If you turn the vents off, you won't get outside odours and the like.

All the OP needs to do is take it back, get them to check for leaks and blocked vents and then run the AC for a week and see if it goes away. Any amount of damp getting in will hang around, things like leaking rear washer jet, blocked sunroof drainage and door seal issues.

Mate your digging yourself a hole, modern cars are pretty well sealed, they have to be for the AC to work and to keep noise down. If you look in the boot well and around rear windows, you'll see one way air vents to allow air to escape out the rear. If you turn the vents off, you won't get outside odours and the like.

All the OP needs to do is take it back, get them to check for leaks and blocked vents and then run the AC for a week and see if it goes away. Any amount of damp getting in will hang around, things like leaking rear washer jet, blocked sunroof drainage and door seal issues.

So next time I park up and have a kip, I should expect to suffocate ?

My new VRS gets very badly condensated in the cold mornings and I mean soaking wet. Takes me a good 10 minutes before I can drive off

Somone said if I switch aircon on full, on windscreen setting and press the re-circulation button it should clear within a couple of minutes .... but it doesn't. Any advice please

Could also be where your parking it. Are you near a field or close to lots of vegetation? does your car park over a drain cover?

I have to slightly agree with the 'damp by design' statement.

The Octy is the first car I've had where:

1/ If you open the boot in the rain/after heavy rain/drizzle/wet/damp/slight camber whatever - water will tend to enter the open boot, no matter how carefully I open/half open/blahblahblah the boot. It is the design of the car that causes this.

2/ Windows - if you want to open windows in the rain/after heavy rain/drizzle/wet/damp/slight camber whatever - water will tend to run off the roof (if polished and nicely beading) and run into the open window onto the top of the door car. Very annoying when entering/exiting car parks etc. Again - it is the design of the car without having any destinct rain channels in the roof that causes this.

Apart from that it is a very dry car inside. Having said that, I might replace the carpet based fitted mats this winter with the rubber ones. Fed up with the kids and the wife making the carpets muddy and having to wait for them to fully dry before getting the Henry out for a good vacuuming.

I've noticed recently that if my blowers are aimed towards the front window when I turn the car on in the morning the window mists over straight away, if I redirect them into the cabin/feet beforehand it doesn't happen.

It seems like there's excess moisture in the AC system that gets blown onto the window, I'm thinking this means I should probably change my pollen filter.

Check the door seals and boot for leaks and put in a new pollen filter.

For those claiming there is a lot of "BS" in this thread then I suggest you take a look back at the number of threads from last winter and the winter before that. I guarantee this thread will be one of many over the next few months.

A good chunk of those threads were from members who were new to the Octavia and were commenting on how much more susceptible the Octavia is to condensation than any of their previous cars. Me included.

All cars mist up from time to time, especially at this time of year, but I have noticed it a lot more on my Octavia's.

Granted, there has to be a reason for it and that reason is simple, moisture is getting into the car somewhere and isn’t been effectively expelled. I can only assume that for some reason some Octavia's suffer more than others.

I have two Octavia's and both suffer to different degrees. Trust me I've been through the usual suspects, wet shoes/clothes, saturated or blocked pollen filter, opening the boot more slowly, replacing door seals, checking for leaks, faulty washer pipes/nozzles, blocked drainage channels etc. Due to the great advice on here I've learnt how to reduce the problem and now experience condensation much less often.

Just because your particular Octavia doesn't suffer from it doesn't mean it isn't a problem for others.

It is actually very easy for a car to be 'damp by design'. Those that spend quite a bit of time on here will know about the common problems on the Octavia that allows either rain water or washer bottle fluid to enter the car. I'm sure the door seals weren't designed to leak. I'm sure the window seals and door gutters weren't designed to direct water into the cabin. I'm sure the washer pipe connectors weren't designed to pop off in the boot. But do you know what? Sometimes down to their design they do!