Bought one of these last November.

http://www.easylifegroup.com/eco-car-dehumidifier-3770

I have it on the transmission tunnel behind the front seats - never had any condensation until last week - but a weekend on the radiator (or apparently a few mins in the microwave) and its good as new!

I have two of them. Stick one on the parcel shelf - I just swap them around every few months and the car stays damp free. I would dispute the "really easy to dry" claim - it's very hard to dry them! On a hot radiator in a dry room one of them will eventually dry out but takes about at least a month, meaning this is something that's only possible in winter when your radiators are on all the time. Airing cuboard isn't hot enough to have much effect (it'll loose a little weight but not really dry out). Hence in the summer not much you can do.

I have to admit haven't tried microwave yet. Worried I'd destroy it - instructions when you get it don't mention using the microwave.

Edited 10 November, 201114 yr by DbD

Tumble dryer?

Tumble dryer?

Might work. although might need to leave it on a very long time. Got solar panels so will wait for a Sunny day when the electricty is free.

What a thread . I agree with all posts but if it was me (which it also is tbh 2011 car same issue) I will make sure I dry car out fully(this will take a long time even with air con) then if it persists I will throw it at my local dealers and let them have a butchers.

Your AC could be FUBAR, of course.

Hoy don't bring me into this!!!!

Well, the OP must be wondering what can of worms they opened here!

On a 2011 car you shouldn't have water dripping off the inside of the windows in the morning. This means that something in the car is wet.

You need to dry the car out fully - get it to a valeters or somewhere that can have it inside all day with the doors open and tailgate up and investigate for damp carpet, seats, spare wheel well etc and blast with warm air until it is thoroughly dry. Only when this has been done can you investigate where this excess moisture is coming from. It could be anything causing it and you need to get the car thoroughly dry first and then see where is getting damp so that it can be traced back. You need to get it logged with the dealer as a fault, but only after you have thoroughly dried the car out and the problem has reoccured. You may even be able to get your dealer to dry it out if you are lucky. Once a car is wet inside it can take for ever to dry it out fully.

I agree with the comments about opening the windows lets water drip in, but every car I have had since my 1972 Mini with its lovely roof gutters has done this.

On a 2011 car you shouldn't have water dripping off the inside of the windows in the morning. This means that something in the car is wet.

Nor should any car designed and built in the last decade but it does happen, and on quite a lot of Octavia's it does regularly.

Unfortunately some Octavia's continue to suffer even after all of the obvious causes have been exhausted despite repeated dealer visits.

Whatever the problem is it is well hidden.

Whatever the problem is it is well hidden.

Or someone hasn't looked hard enough!

The water has to come from somewhere, and if that much is condensing on the inside of the screen it is a fair bit of moisture in the car.

I used to work at a main dealers and you could see some cars on the used car lot had awful condensation problems on cold mornings - to the extent that water was dripping off of the inside of the screens. These were the ones that if they weren't aired daily would smell like a damp dog after a couple of days and no amount of valeting would get rid of the damp, musty smell.

Half the time it was something really simple that was causing it - usually a window seal. I have even seen a Vectra where the A/C condenser was draining in to the cabin as the pipe had come off, so using the A/C actually made it worse as the car got damper after every run. The only real way to troubleshoot this is strip all the carpets out and see where the water is running down to the floorpan from, but dealers are not going to do that as a warranty job unless you really stand your ground. You can only prove it as a fault to them if you manage to get the car perfectly dry and it comes back, otherwise they will just blame you for getting in the car with a wet coat on and driving 10 miles home, not giving the car a chance to dry out.

One thing I would check is that the flaps that open in the bodywork (usually behind the rear bumper) are actually free to move and let air flow through the car so it can 'breathe' when you are driving. Don't use recirculate on the heating as this will make it worse - can you hear the flap moving when you switch recirculate on and off etc etc etc

Condensation so bad that it forms droplets is the worst case. It’s difficult for a dealer to dispute the fact that there is a problem when it’s running down the inside of the glass. The water ingress is also likely to be to such an extent that it’s easier to diagnose and fix.

Unfortunately there are different levels of water ingress which affects the amount and regularity of the condensation. At the other end of the scale its enough to be annoying but not enough to persuade a dealer to go to the extra effort required to lift the carpets or remove the dash etc. its much easier for them to blame wet shoes, lots of short runs etc. and hope you’ll go away.

It’s these situations that are talked about the most on here and often go undiagnosed for the reasons mentioned above.

I agree - but there is only one way of troubleshooting accurately and you need to get the car dry first, which no amount of driving around will do. It has to be a heater and everything open job for a day or it just comes back. Damp carpets in a car take an age to dry out whilst still in the car, even with the right gear - I know, I have had it done many many times by valeters whilst working in the motor trade for more than a decade (which I don't work in any more thank goodness).

Unfortunately, it is very difficult to trace back to the source once the obvious culprits have been eliminated and is very labour intensive, hence why in the majority of cases it doesn't get solved. Driving round in a car with next to no trim in it isn't everyones cup of tea! Especially if the car is new and under warranty.

The OP did say 'soaking wet' so I kind of assumed we were talking water droplets running down the inside, rather than misting up.

I can't say I have found my Octy any worse than any other car I have owned, unless I get it damp by having the tailgate open in the pouring rain for a length of time. It can then take quite a while to disperse that moisture, even with the kind of mileage I do annually (about 25K). As you quite rightly said, the worst thing for damp cars is short journeys which only make matters worse in winter.

Assuming there isn't fault, for those who are unable to have their cars professionally dried out what is the best way to reduce condensation without relying on the A/C?

I quite like my car warm, almost hot. Am I right in thinking that if I get the car warm enough so that a good chunk of the moisture is absorbed, if I then open the windows does the moisture then exit the car?

It will do yes, as the colder air from outside will replace it. Not much help if it is throwing it down though!

Having a window partly open for a short period will help some of the warmer, moist air escape, but there is no real replacement for getting it dry in the first place. You don't need to have professional equipment to make a big difference, you just need to get the car in to a garage and be able to leave it with windows / doors / tailgate open to get air through it. Anything you can do with gentle warmth and or a dehumidifier will make a huge difference.

Most dampness in cars is caused by wet coats and shoes (or dogs!) and the car not having a chance to dry out in my humble opinion.

One of the reasons I upgraded my Central Convenience Module recently was so that I could have Rain Closing (funny, it wasn't standard on L&Ks on 2006MY). This means I can leave my windows down an inch whilst in the car park at work which airs the car nicely, but if it rains the windows shut. Lovely in summer to keep the car cool, and nice in spring and autumn to keep the car aired. Might not be too much use in winter though LOL.

It will do yes, as the colder air from outside will replace it. Not much help if it is throwing it down though!

Having a window partly open for a short period will help some of the warmer, moist air escape, but there is no real replacement for getting it dry in the first place. You don't need to have professional equipment to make a big difference, you just need to get the car in to a garage and be able to leave it with windows / doors / tailgate open to get air through it. Anything you can do with gentle warmth and or a dehumidifier will make a huge difference.

Most dampness in cars is caused by wet coats and shoes (or dogs!) and the car not having a chance to dry out in my humble opinion.

One of the reasons I upgraded my Central Convenience Module recently was so that I could have Rain Closing (funny, it wasn't standard on L&Ks on 2006MY). This means I can leave my windows down an inch whilst in the car park at work which airs the car nicely, but if it rains the windows shut. Lovely in summer to keep the car cool, and nice in spring and autumn to keep the car aired. Might not be too much use in winter though LOL.

At 70 degrees F the air in your car would hold a few ounces of water which is a fair bit. If you vent it all and replace it with cooler air, even if damp, you will still be expelling a lot more than you are letting in so yes it all helps. Running the aircon dries the air in the cabin anyway of course.

HI all used to suffer badly with condensation but it is much better now after following three simple steps.

1, alter the door lock plates in a mm or two use masking tape to mark original position if the door is too tight i.e. needs slamming you can revert to original position.

2,close all fresh air vents and keep the aircon on always, you ain't gonna ruin it in fact you will keep it alive for longer!

3, before switching off the engine put the car in reverse to allow recirculation to kick in.

this works for me and it may work for you guys give it a go 2 and 3 take seconds.....

Edited 23 November, 201114 yr by roynhayley

Tumble dryer?

Stuck it in the microwave for a few minutes. That obviously caused it to get hot which I think started to melt the glue holding the bag together as bag split on one edge. Glad I didn't put it in tumber dryer or I'd have had a right mess.

In the end poured the contents (which look like fine sand) into a big microwave proof container and microwaved for 30 mins. That did the trick. Just got to get it back in the bag and shut it again :S

Stuck it in the microwave for a few minutes. That obviously caused it to get hot which I think started to melt the glue holding the bag together as bag split on one edge. Glad I didn't put it in tumber dryer or I'd have had a right mess.

Yeeeeaaaaaah... I'm not convinced putting it in for a half hour gentle heat tumble would have had quite the same effect as blasting it with high power micro waves for a few minutes.

I might try to defrost my chicken breast in the tumble dryer tonight though, thanks for the tip.

In the winter of 2009 we had a similar problem with a new VW Touran - water was leaking into the passenger footwell. It was a significant amount and was only noticed due to the steaming up and the carpet freezing solid! If you lifted the front mat and pressed the carpet (when the ice had melted) it was like pressing a wet sponge. Dealer had the car for 3 days and dried it out and replaced the windscreen and resealed around the front bulkhead as they couldn't find the entry point but thought these were the most likely causes.

Car took ages to properly dry out - but the fix worked and the we had no more leaks.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1311&_nkw=dehumidifier&_sacat=See-All-Categories

Plenty there to help!!

Found the source of mine today - door rubber has a big split around the top edge of the door, rubber floor mat is collecting wafer. Will try a new door rubber and see what happens.

For all dog owners - if you keep a splash proof dog bowl in your boot, this could be your problem! I hadn't thought about it until I read this thread earlier, then took the dog out and refilled the bowl. Have taken it out now, will see what the car's like in the morning!

For all dog owners - if you keep a splash proof dog bowl in your boot, this could be your problem! I hadn't thought about it until I read this thread earlier, then took the dog out and refilled the bowl. Have taken it out now, will see what the car's like in the morning!

lol that would be one of those moments you slap your forehead and in a Homer Simpson style say "Doh"

lol that would be one of those moments you slap your forehead and in a Homer Simpson style say "Doh"

Indeed! Seems to have solved my problem anyhow.

I like many others have noticed a lot of condensation on the screens in the mornings, a look at the carpets has shown the front passenger carpet to be slightly damp under the mat. How easy is it to change the pollen filter and how does water find its way in to the filter to start with?

i put one of these on the back shelf http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-CARAVAN-DEHUMIDIFIER-AIR-MOISTURE-HUMIDITY-DAMP-ABSORBER-DRYER-/220903215231?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Car_Care_Cleaning&hash=item336edb907f no probblems now

i put one of these on the back shelf http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-CARAVAN-DEHUMIDIFIER-AIR-MOISTURE-HUMIDITY-DAMP-ABSORBER-DRYER-/220903215231?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Car_Care_Cleaning&hash=item336edb907f no probblems now

+1

Although I find they work equally well even when hidden under one of the front seats. As long as the air inside the car can get at them they should do the job.

I like many others have noticed a lot of condensation on the screens in the mornings, a look at the carpets has shown the front passenger carpet to be slightly damp under the mat. How easy is it to change the pollen filter and how does water find its way in to the filter to start with?

Water shouldn't be passing through the pollen filter.

It's more likely to be blocked drain holes in the door seals.

Open the passenger door and give the rubber seal a squeeze, if it's full of water then it isn't draining properly. There are a couple of holes in it which tend to get blocked with dirt.

Pollen filter is easy. In the passenger side foot well under the glove box you will see 2 plastic wing nuts, unscrew these and gently pull back the foam cover, do not pull this out just fold it back toward the passenger seat. Then slide the plastic cover & remove it and pull out the old pollen filter (remember to note which way it came out). Fitting the new one is a reversal of the above. Assuming you buy a genuine filter there are instructions in the box. Plenty listed on eBay delivered for less than a tenner.