jars' 2005 Fabia vRS

[@Lee]

FFS mate 😞 What a rough few days. 

[Titanium_Man]

15 minutes ago, Lee_Esq said:

FFS mate 😞 What a rough few days. 

 

Yeah, things could have been easier / kinder 😞 

[Paul thornton]

Good job on the headlights though, I must have a go at mine.

[Titanium_Man]

On 14/09/2019 at 20:44, Paul thornton said:

Good job on the headlights though, I must have a go at mine.

Cheers mate. Was just a quick tidy-up. Dead easy with a rotary and the right polish.
 

Was  gonna wet sand them first, but it was dead in work and didn’t have the correct grades of paper to hand so decided to mop them only. Took me all of about 5 minutes in total 😝

Edited 13 October, 2019 by jars
Fat fingers

[Titanium_Man]

New AP coilovers ordered from Venom Motorsport, although I am expecting these to be the wrong ones as they were  the best part of £100 cheaper than anywhere else I found. I reckon they’re advertised as being for the MK1 vRS when in fact are for the MK2 vRS. 

As you can see, pretty F’ed struts 🤣

 

 

Have also ordered Delphi discs and pads for the front as the second set of APEC discs warped. Pretty happy with the purchase as they were down from £165 to £85 and come with a three year warranty. 🤘

 

It’s also time I gave the callipers a lick of paint 

 

Edited 29 February, 2020 by jars

[Titanium_Man]

In the four months since my last post I have been busy..... got the AP coilovers through the post, which did fit 🤙

 

 

 

This was the first time that I have changed suspension, which went well and wasn't overly difficult. 

 

 

Decided to keep the old top-mounts. No hardship if they do decide to give up the ghost as it's only gonna cost me my time.

 

I also painted the new brake discs with Hammerite to stop the ugly rust from forming

 

 

.... but didn't have time to repaint the callipers 😞 

 

 

 

Since in installed the AP's I've had a few niggles to sort. My temperature gauge was fluctuating, so decided to change the thermostat, which I was able to get from TPS. Although the heater did get hot quicker, the problem remained, so I changed the CTS. Both were simple enough jobs, if not messy 😬

 

 

This seems to have cured the issue.... so next up was to try and fix and oil leak 😟

 

I initially thought it was coming from the rocker cover, so I was back on the phone to TPS for a new rubber gasket. After a week of driving it was still there... grr! I cleaned it all up again and drove it for a couple of weeks and rechecked. This time I could see it was obviously from the tandem pump. TPS are now on my speed dial (!) so ordered a new metal gasket and CV boot. 

 

 

 

In the last 5 years I reckon I've had 4 CV boots changed. Never been expensive, but now I know that the reason for the cheap cost was due to a universal boot being put on as they can be fitted (stretched over the CV knuckle) without taking the drive shaft off, all in about 20 minutes. Now that I work in a garage I decided I was going to do it the proper way and ordered one from TPS (making the most of being in the trade 😏) The difference in thickness was unreal! No doubt this one is gonna last!

 

 

Weapons of choice ....

 

 

Drive shaft out ....

 

 

CV knuckle off 

 

 

 

... and rebuilt.... 

 

 

 

One of the messiest jobs! 

 

Although I had been told that the best fix for the tandem pump was to take it off and smear some sealant on the gasket, I naively thought that a new gasket would cure the leak. A few days after fitting a new gasket it was leaking again. So, had to take it off to apply some sealant and has been bone dry since!

Edited 29 February, 2020 by jars

[Titanium_Man]

The only niggles I had left at this point was a knock that I hoped the new suspension was gonna cure, which didn't, temperamental electric windows & intermittent bulb-out warning on the dash. 

 

After extensive jiggling on the MOT ramp, coupled with a second opinion, I've narrowed the knock down to the drivers steering arm / inner tie rod. This doesn't seem an overly difficult or expensive fix, but one that will now have to wait... MOT time!!

 

Given my car is now 15 years old and covered 142k miles, I'm always a little wary of this time of year. I have spent some time with the MOT tester at work and now have a much better idea of what to look out for. This year I was sure she was gonna get through without any advisories other than the two front tyres wearing on the inner edges (which I picked up when I changed the brakes back in October, so swapped the to the rear 😛 )...... but I was wrong!! 

 

Annoyingly, there was a brake imbalance on the front, although just about within tolerance, and rear discs are corroding 🙁 

 

When I changed the discs and pads, both pistons could be pressed back with no issue, so the imbalance was a bit of a surprise. That evening I took off the near-side calliper and it was indeed pretty much seized. On further inspection I could see the the rubber piston seal had come out of the recess where it sits, which of course has let water inside and has started to rust. I cleaned up the piston with a bit of emery cloth, which freed up nicely. Now, I have rebuilt callipers before and this was what I was hoping to do, but my mentor at work didn't believe this would do the trick as the rust looked like it had pitted where the seal is meant to sit, so was likely to come back again. This meant I had to buy a new calliper 🤬

 

Picked up a refurbished, albeit it, silver, calliper last week for £60 and spent the last week slowly painting it with Hammerite Smooth Green. Nice, thin coats, followed by a period hanging in front of the fire in the workshop 

 

 

 

 

Although painting the calliper off the car was always gonna be easy, I still had the carrier that it was gonna attach to, along with the off-side calliper and carrier to repaint whilst still on the car. 

 

This brings me up to today.... after a lazy morning, I got into the workshop at 11am and set about giving the new calliper another lick of paint (must have been around 7 coats in total). Got out the cheap heat-gun I picked up off Ebay for £17 and got cracking on the bits that were still attached to the car ....

 

 

 

 

 

... and back looking respectable again!

 

 

 

Whilst I was in the garage I sorted the tracking, changed the wipers blades and replaced a brake light bulb that although was still working, had a black tinge to it, so was on its last legs. 

I also made a start to installing a new splitter as my old one was tired and was sagging in the middle 

 

 

 

.... and made a bracket for my catch-can as the old one broke

 

Back to the workshop in the morning to do my first cam-belt and water pump on my mates car... wish me luck 😜

 

Edited 29 February, 2020 by jars

[mikey362]

Great work! Although expensive some times I find stuff from TPS is good quality

[Titanium_Man]

4 hours ago, mikey362 said:

Great work! Although expensive some times I find stuff from TPS is good quality

Cheers Mikey. 
 

Yeah, I agree, although the only thing I thought was expensive was the thermostat housing?! The CV boot was only a bit more than one of the flimsy universal ones, so well worth the extra. 

[Titanium_Man]

Whilst I'm waiting for my Universal Credit profile to unlock itself after forgetting my password, I thought I would update my thread 😆

 

I forgot to mention in my last update at the end of February that whilst I was referring my callipers I did notice the piston seal on the offside had swollen. I have to assume that the copious amount of brake cleaner I have used to clean them up recently has taken its toll. My mistake for not making sure that I wiped the Wurth brake cleaner fluid we use at work off the seals 🤦‍♂️ 

 

 

Wanting to avoid having to replace another seized calliper I knew I had to strip and rebuild it before this happened. 

 

I purchased a seal kit off Ebay for £9, which included all rubbers and suitable grease, which arrived on 20th March, so just a few days before the country went into lockdown!

 

 

The block of wood pictured above was far too big in the end to get the piston out with the airline blower, so found a suitably smaller piece. Once this was out it was easy getting the various rubbers off and out. 

 

Once the piston was about I set about cleaning it up 

 

 

I used a combination of bench wire wheel and a bit of emery cloth to get it spic and span

 

 

 

I didn't buy a new piston as hoped I had caught this early enough given that there was no evidence of the seal being damaged when I changed the discs and pads last year, thankfully the below is the only bit of pitting I found 

 

 

I applied the red grease to the two rubber seals, which I fitted before attempting to refit the piston itself. 

 

In all honesty, getting the new seal to go over the piston was the only tricky bit to rebuilding these callipers and took me longer to do this than the entire rest of the job. Frustrating is the word!

 

Now rebuilt

 

 

15 minutes after taking the above picture it was all back together and on and, followed by a test-drive to check all was ok. 

 

 

 

Edited 14 April, 2020 by jars
typo

[Titanium_Man]

So, with my boss not wanting me to go to work due to my underlying health issues, I was placed on furlough on 24th March. Not what I wanted as I enjoy working and being in the garage with my mates, but understood why my boss wanted to me to stop working. As it happens, this was the same day that my wife's employer decided enough was enough and asked her to work from home. 

 

So, after sitting on the sofa for the first day, I then spent the next two days cleaning my wife car. Didn't have to go mad as I gave it a deep clean and full polish a couple of years ago. Turned out alright for a 13 year old car if I do say so myself 🤪

 

 

I'll be the first to admit that I haven't kept on top of bodywork of my car for a long, long time. I gave it a full machine polish waaaay back in about 2011/2012 and I've not let anyone else wash it since. It's had the occasional clay due a lot of industrial fallout as a result of working very close to Portbury dock for my last employer, but it's fair to say this is the only attention the bodywork has really received. As a result, there are minimal swirl marks in the paintwork despite it now being 15 years old. 

 

What I do have are several scuffs and other issues I needed to sort to stop her looking like an un-loved car, like most MK1 vRS' I see on the road nowadays. 

 

First up was to clean it; so snow foamed with Auto Brite Magifoam & cleaned using 2 bucket method and original Zymol car shampoo. I then jacked the car up on one side to remove the wheels for a proper clean and seal. 

 

 

The main reason I wanted to do this was that there was old CV grease splattered all over the lower arm, rear of the hub etc etc. Fair to say that the wheels needed to be removed regardless of the splattered grease(!)

 

 

 

... and all clean ...

 

 

 

I cleaned the wheels using Bilbury Wheel Cleaner, needing two hits; 1st being neat and second using a a ratio of 1 part cleaner to 4 water, so still a fairly strong mix. Once cleaned, I put on three coats of Poorboys Wheel Sealer. 

 

Once done, clayed the entire car. I know that there are now clay mitts on the market, but I still like using Bilt Hamber clay bar. This was the worst I saw on the clay

 

 

Once done, next up was to sort was the rear bumper. This was resprayed in around 2014 and has recently started showing weird kind of staining. I initially hoped it would have been removed whilst I clayed it last week, but nope, as you can see below it remained.... 

 

 

 

I decided to attack it with a DA, and orange Lake Country pad (light cut) and Meguiars 105. The above shows half the bumper rectified ....

 

 

 

As you can see, the bumper still needs to be repainted, but looks a whole lot better than before. Next up, a scuff inflicted by the wife 🤬

 

The below went from the nearside rear passenger door to the rear light cluster

 

 

 

... but soon went ...

 

 

Once the these were sorted I polished the entire car using the orange Lake Country pad with Meguiars 205. The, using my DA, applied three layers of Autoglym HD Wax (This is the original version of this wax, which gives a lovely wet look)

 

Next up, I will be wet-sanding my headlights as these are looking a little yellow (although well within MOT tolerance) then I want to wet-wax the seats.... if I can find my multi spline set.....

 

 

[Titanium_Man]

Headlights all sorted 😎

 

Looking back, it was July 2019 I last gave my headlights a quick polish. Unfortunately, it doesn't take long for them to turn yellow again so I have planned on wet-sanding the lens' back, polish and put on a seal to minimise this happening again in the future. 

 

I started with 1200 grit wet&dry with mopped back with a light cut spot pad and Meguiars 105 on my Das-6 Pro Plus.

 

 

I repeated this with 1500 & 2000 grit. I used 2500 grit to finish with the same spot pad and Meguiars, after which I cracked out a polish spot pad and Blackfire Finishing Polish. 

 

 

 

Once both sides were finished I coated with Techniq C4, which is meant to protect against UV rays and should slow down how quickly the headlights become cloudy again. Time will tell if it works and how long it lasts!

 

 

 

I did take 1 picture of the front of the car once I was done, but the light was poor and the picture wasn't great, so deleted it 🤓 

 

 

Edited 20 April, 2020 by jars

[DC2990]

Good work. The arches look very clean.

I put some stone/UV protection clear film covers on my headlights 18 month's ago after polishing them up for a 2nd time and so far they are still good.

[Luke6n]

Great stuff mate, really good read. 

[Titanium_Man]

Like a lot of people, I returned from furlough in June, which was very welcome! 

 

I serviced my car in September as wanted a good look round to make sure the oil leak had gone, which it has  However, been noticing blue smoke on startup getting worse. Oil consumption has also been terrible. So bad that on a couple of trips to Norwich I had to top-up before setting off for Bristol, which I've never had to do in the nearly 10 years I've owned this car. My first thought was valve stem seals, but decided to remove the oil catch-can as a free process of elimination, which has immediately done the trick. I haven't thought too long or hard about this, just happy that the blue smoke has pretty much disappeared and oil consumption is back to normal, which is pretty much nil. 

 

As the knocking has gotten worse, I had another butchers as it was our MOT tester that diagnosed the drivers side steering arm that was making the noice. He claimed to be able to feel very slight movement in it, but I could not in all honesty. 

 

After checking all bolts to ensure they were tight, a pry bar to make sure all the poly bushes were sound and drop links were still solid, I came across this;

 

 

 

Can't decide if the knock is just the track rod or both. Can do both for about £14, but the motor factors want to know what rack I have on there as there are apparently two options? Regardless, not had the time to take a proper look at the rack. 

 

Due to having three months off, Covid killing the festival scene for the year & international travel until July, I had not used any of my annual leave. That said, I did manage to get away for my 40th at the start of September for 10 days So, rather than lose it, I took last week off to do a few bits that I've been putting off. Which leads me to this;

 

 

My black vRS has been taking up our parking bay for several years now and decided now was the time to get it moved.

 

Initially, the plan was to take off the Brembo's & long-ration gearbox, which would eventually end up on my silver vRS. As I didn't have anywhere to keep the engine it was gonna go the scrapheap in the sky along with the rest of the car.

 

I started last Monday, which as you can see was raining! Not constant, thankfully, so did manage to get the brakes off, battery & tray, intake and airbox out between the rain, rainbows and hale!

 

 

 

 

I had forgotten just how big & heavy these things are! Despite being a home for local wildlife for the last few years, the pistons were very easy to push back, which was needed as the lip on the discs stopped me from just pulling them away once the two bolts were removed.

 

 

I immediately thought of the Merc AMG 4-pot callipers I worked on a few weeks ago, which are much, much lighter 

 

The following day I set about making room for the 'box to be removed from the engine. I knew that the diff had to be rotated upwards & the off-side drive shaft coupling had to be removed to get it out, so removed the starter and cracked the inner shaft bolts to make the room I needed....

 

 

Decided at this point that the gear shifter tower also needed to be removed to avoid catching the various looms, so out it came

 

 

I also dropped the gear oil so I could remove the coupling. The oil looked and smelled brand spanking new, which it should do as this 'box was rebuilt at a cost of £1600, 25k miles before I took it off the road. Happy nonetheless.

 

I had promised the wife I would do some bits in the house on the Tuesday, so that was it for the day ...... I also needed a 36mm socket and long bar so I could get the hub nuts off, which I didn't have at this point.

 

My biggest concern about removing it was not having someone experienced with me. Not because I don't know what I am doing, more that this is pretty heavy and therefore not a one man job. As soon as you remove the box off the little dowels it could catch you out if you're not expecting it. Bless her, my wife offered to lend me a hand getting it out, but there is also not a lot of room working under axle stands.

 

I went to football that evening with my boss and had a chat about removing the 'box. He couldn't believe I was gonna leave the engine in the car, so explained the storage issue (I hadn't asked him about keeping it at work as I know space is very limited) and lack of engine crane. After talking it through, he said that if I could get it to the garage I could keep it there, so long as it wasn't going to be "years and years". Awesome!

 

Wednesday was a family day, so me, Zee and her mum went out for the day, which involved two different restaurants and many apples being consumed! We wanted to have this day as the country was going to start another national lockdown the following day. 

 

I managed to get over to work just after midday to collect the two tools I needed and see if I could borrow an engine crane from the garage across the road. After a few cuppas and catchup, I headed home to find that the socket would not fit as it was too thick. Out came the angle grinder 

 

 

As I had already taken off the calliper I couldn't shove a screwdriver in the brake disc, so had to find another way of removing the inner shaft bolts and hub nut 

 

 

The drivers side came out pretty easily, but the passenger side was a different story 

 

 

Whoever installed the drive shaft had rounded off the hub nut  

 

Edited 10 November, 2020 by jars
Testing image size

[Titanium_Man]

I ended up taking the angle grinder & diamond cutting disc to the drive shaft, which took ages! After over an hour of cutting, it was out.

 

 

On the Friday I removed the front end so I could easily get to all the wiring plugs, vacuum lines and air con pipes.

 

 

I did press in a screw driver on the two air con connectors to see if there was any refrigerant, which I didn't expect there to be as I could see that the condenser had been leaking as there was dye on the rear of it. 

 

 

I put my tools down at 5pm with everything unclipped and cable tied out of the way ready for the engine to be removed on the Saturday. This included the exhaust to turbo bolts that I expected to be a right PITA, but had soaked them with WD40 he day before and came out no bother.

 

 

I borrowed my lodgers Transit Connect on the Saturday morning so I could pickup the engine crane. A 10 pack of Stella for the man in charge was all it cost me. Happy days! Couldn't do anymore as my lodger needed the van early afternoon to move some stock for a pub from Bristol to Cardiff. 

 

Didn't take me long on Sunday morning to get the engine out, which my wife was unknowingly & eagerly watching from above 

 

 

 

 

... Zee was chomping at the bit to get involved in some way shape or form

 

 

Snug as a bug in a rug

 

 

Drove it over to my place of work, unloaded then serviced my mates car whilst I was there 

 

This week is college week, which is done over 'tinterweb due to Covid. It was a simple recap on Ohms & Watts law followed by a 17 question test, so was done in 10 minutes, all by 11:30am. This gave me chance to put the front back together ready for the car to be towed away. I've requested a couple of quotes from online companies offering to take away scrap cars but will need to speak to a real person to explain that the engine, 'box and front callipers are missing, and one of the drive shafts has been cut to see if it makes a difference to the £177 quote I received from them initially.

 

 

I've kept the fog lights, starter motor, the battery fuses & the other fuses, MAF and these two, which I am sure will come in handy :P 

 

 

 

Now, I'm undecided what to the with the Brembo's. They don't need to be serviced / rebuilt but do need to be repainted. I've looked at companies who want a couple of hundred quid for them to be sent off and professionally sorted. Money I haven't really got given the parts I need to buy, plus the lower sills need sorting. I did come across a company called BCS Automotive who can send me their paint and offer a 2 year guarantee so long as I provide them with before, during and after pics to show I've followed their process to enable the guarantee. This aint bad for £37 and sounds like that it will give me enough paint for the spare rear Octavia vRS callipers I have in sat in my garage that I keep meaning to strip and rebuild. I'm not sure on self-paint option as I don't wanna have to keep painting them TBH.

 

The alternative is selling them as they are as it would give me some funds for me to start the head rebuild I want to do. I've got a pot of £1200, £800 of which has already been spent on a clutch and flywheel  I'm probably gonna spend the rest of that on getting the sills sorted. I have been building up my welding skills, but want this done properly, so will leave it to a professional. 

 

That's it for now  

 

[Titanium_Man]

Has it really been 5 months since I updated this 

 

Well, after unceremoniously dumping the engine and 'box at the back of the garage at work, 10 days later my black Skoda was no longer taking up my much needed parking space  

 

 

 

It left a bit of a mess, of course

 

After sorting out the mess, I popped over to work and changed both track rod ends and nearside tie rod, put on two new tyres and sorted the tracking out 

 

 

 

It's now much quieter on the road... hurrah! 

 

Both front windows stopped working again, this time for good! I did spend a god amount of time working through the various potential causes and settled on the drivers window motor being the cause. I rang TPS for a quote for a replacement .... £191! At this price I wanted to be 100% sure that my diagnosis was right. So, I waited, and waited and waited until the auto electrician we get in for major electrical issues was called in next, cost me a tenner for him to go through his own checks but agreed it was the window motor. As we were chatting he mentioned that it was possible that the solder joints inside the unit had broken, so I opened up the old unit and re-soldered and re-installed, but still no joy. 

 

Martin doing his thing ....

 

Yay, an open window!!

 

More to follow when I've got a bit more time ....... cylinder head strip down was started  

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Titanium_Man]

So, I started to strip down my spare engine probably about three weeks ago, 5 minutes here and there removing the various bolt on parts like the turbo, aircon compressor, fuel lines etc. A few weeks went by without touching it as we were mental in work and have been keeping my weekends free as Zee is still working from home. 

 

Things really went off the boil at work two weeks ago, so managed to spend a couple of hours stripping the head. Wasn't looking forward to pulling the injectors out as I don't think I've seen a single one come out easily in the early two years of working in a garage, even by very seasoned professionals, so I chose to try something I haven't seen done by my mentor yet ....

 

Gotta love a cable tie! I used a long bar to free up the injector by wriggling side to side, then used the cable tie to pull up as I wiggled. Simples! Once these were out the rest was pretty much plain sailing with only the removal of the valves the only thing I was unsure of at this point. 

 

 

Overall, the cam wasn't in bad condition considering the engine has done 187k. This was the only mark I found ....

 

 

 

These have clearly seen better days!

 

.... and this was what the underside looked like after a very quick wipe down, before the valves came out 

 

 

Halfway through valve removal 

 

 

and out .....

 

 

 

 

.... all stripped, cleaned and ready to be sent off for testing and quick skim

 

 

One paperweight, put to one side

 

... and one useful long-ratio 'box sat ready to be touched

 

 

Back in work on Tuesday and will get the head sent off and get some parts ordered. I'm hoping to have this rebuilt in the next two weeks, but we will see  

 

This does seem like a lot of work just to change the leaking valve stem seals, but this type of work doesn't come up often and will look good in my college portfolio of work! Time has seriously flown as I only have two more block weeks left at college, then I'm all finished 

 

Until next time .......

 

[Titanium_Man]

No engine update, but this happened on Friday  T055er didn’t leave a note or anything

 

 

Wanting to cheer myself up, I cracked out a tool that I’ve had for a few years but not used up to this point. 
 

 

The dent you can see in the below pic has been on the car since pretty much the first week I got the car, which can been seen on the first page of this build. 

 

 

 

 

 
Very happy it’s now gone 

[J.R.]

A clue of what the tool is and how it was used would be very appreciated, I'm not a fan of puzzles but I do have enough PDR repairs to do to last the summer.

[DieselMonte]

Always have to respect good PDR work, pure magic. Great job.

[Titanium_Man]

Cheers guys. 
 

Well, it was an Instagram purchase, believe it or not  

 

 

Ive gotta get up for work, but I’ve got a few on the wife’s car to do, so will get some more pics of the tool etc and little explanation.

Edited 11 May, 2021 by jars

[Titanium_Man]

Jeez, time has flown since my last post 😛 

 

The dent puller I bought was from Instagram, but the attached pic is (obviously!) from Amazon and is pretty much identical, although I also bought some extra glue sticks.

 

Nice and simple to use, once I had set the puller the correct distance from the panel. A bit of trial and error and I eventually got there. I bought a cheap glue gun from the 'bay for about £12. The video on Instagram showed the person spraying the cold glue left on the panel and used some sort of plastic tool to remove it. I didn't fancy that or trying to pull it off with my fingers, so I used a heat gun to warm it up and wiped if off with some Wurth brake cleaner and an old but clean microfibre cloth.  

 

Proper work on my car has not really happened. Although I didn't think it would happen, but working on cars all day means there's little get-up-and-go left in my tank in the evenings and been pretty much tied up most weekends with college work 😞 

 

That said, there has been the odd quite day in the garage and I have made a decent start to cleaning up the gearbox casing. This is a long and laborious task, so been doing a bit here and there to break it up. 

 

 

I also had a bit of fun cleaning out the manifold 😋 

 

... soaked in petrol, then filled with brake cleaner and used an airline make some flames

 

 

[AnnoyingPentium]

Interested in those dent pullers actually. Got enough dents on mine to fill an evening (not caused by me!)

 

Loving the flames, fellow pyromaniac.

[Titanium_Man]

The not-so-fun bit in the last couple of months was the coolant warning light on the dash coming on during my drive to work. I immediately pulled over, popped the bonnet and was met with an empty coolant tank 😞 Thankfully, I was about half a mile from where I park. I popped her on the ramp at work, filled the tank with water and put the pressure tester on it. It was immediately obvious it was coming from the radiator, in a couple of different places. Weirdly, there was no sign it was leaking, but I had been using the wife's car to get to work for the previous two weeks as she's still working from home. 

 

I contacted both TPS and our local parts supplier for prices for a new one, but elected to go for an upgrade instead. Some might argue paying twice the price for a custom radiator is a waste of money, but the lifetime warranty swayed me. Took about two weeks for it to be made and delivered, but was happy enough once I got my hands on it.

 

 

.... bit of a difference from the OEM one, 40% increase apparently

 

 

 

Old one out

 

 

.... me trying to be organised  ☺️ 

 

 

one knackered radiator

 

 

 

.... and new one in 

 

 

It wasn't exactly straight forward as some of the hole were a few mm out, plus they were not the same thread as what was there originally. This added extra stress and time trying to find and modify bit and pieces.

 

 

Oh, and it was bl00dy hot, about 30 degrees, so chose to work without a top on.... stupid mistake 

 

https://flic.kr/p/2mPAJYm

 

Whilst I had the room I also removed was is meant to be a captive nut on the battery tray that was not longer captive, meaning I could get my battery out. Out came the mig welder. Not pretty, but now works as it should  

 

 

 

 

Edited 8 December, 2021 by jars